I think the problem is the direct sunlight, it may be causing the brown, crispy spots, and if it gets too hot, the plant can dehydrate even though the soil is still moist. I think that might be it. Tell me if it gets better by placing the monstera a bit further from the window!

If you wanna know more about the optimum conditions of your monstera you should really check this post: Monstera Deliciosa - How to make it love you back!

The dead spots aren't going to fix themselves. Trim them out or cut the entire leaf off. Putting it outside for summer will do it wonders.

These are the tops that have been living in this red trug since last October when they broke off taking the mother plant indoors. I do have to empty the rain water every week or two to keep mosquitoes down. This was last month.

I don't take a lot of pictures of it (kind of plain looking) so this was back in 2016. Minimal care.

Hi, Kim. It would be helpful if you reject commonly repeated advice to water when the top inch or two of soil is dry and start using a 'tell' to 'tell' you what's going on at the bottom of the pot in terms of moisture levels where it counts. I'll leave you with a couple of short pieces I wrote about bad watering advice and using a tell. Also, this thread that provides An Overview of Good Growing Practices might be very helpful, too.

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Water when the top inch or two of the soil column is dry?

Most
growers unfamiliar with how water behaves in container media are
prone to repeating the title mantra. But let's look at some facts. A
saturated or partially saturated medium is limiting in a number of
ways.

Roots
need an ample supply of oxygen in order that roots can function
normally. Saturated soil surrounding roots limits oxygen required to
drive root function, thereby impairing root efficiency and possibly
setting the stage for any of a number of fungal pathogens that thrive
in anaerobic (airless) conditions.

Soil
saturation limits gas exchange, so waste gases like methane and CO2
in the root zone are less able to leave the soil, also limiting root
function

Soil
saturation kills the fine roots that do the lion's share of work
involving water uptake and nutrient distribution. When this occurs,
chemical messengers tell plant central injury to the root system has
occurred. Top growth stops immediately, because root growth always
precedes top growth – the top will not grow if the roots cannot
support the growth with water/nutrients. The plant is then forced to
regenerate dead roots, using energy which otherwise would have been
devoted to additional top growth, keeping the plant's systems
orderly, keeping the plant wearing a 'healthy glow', and improving
the plant's ability to defend itself. In short, the wasted energy
would have kept the plant looking/ growing better, and healthier.

If
a pot is 10” deep, the top 2” can feel completely dry to the
touch, even while the bottom 6” is 100 saturated. That means 60% of
the medium would be fighting you tooth and nail for control over the
plant's vitality …… and this is the point at which you should
water again? Does that sound reasonable? We don't care even a whit if
the top 2" of the soil are dry. Roots there are largely plumbing
and anchorage, with essentially none of the fine almost microscopic
roots that do the lion's share of the plant's heavy lifting.

Ficus
species are all good at retaining water in their roots in case of
drought. That doesn't mean you should test them to see what they'll
tolerate, but it does mean you can and should let the soil dry down
so you can only detect moisture (by using a 'tell') in the bottom
inch or two of soil. Let me know if you're unfamiliar with the term
'tell'.

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Using a 'tell'

Over-watering saps vitality
and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid
it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy
source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need
energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it,
they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see
that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to
drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and
not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would
like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a
healthy plant.

Watering in small sips leads
to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved
solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions,
which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in
sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates
another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply
adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the
saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating
dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced
to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods
of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can
immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very
important factor.

In many cases, we can judge
whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is
especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic,
but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier
material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes
grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for
water.

Fingers stuck an inch or two
into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep
pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry,
while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated.
Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak
havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure
of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even
measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean
the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the
fact it reads 'DRY'.

One of the most reliable
methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'.
You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of
about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48”
(120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair.
Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip
so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the
wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root
system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try
several places until you find one where you can push it all the way
to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and
inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water
until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of
wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress
isn't a recurring issue.

Al

If it came in a heavy ceramic pot, it makes it hard to feel the weight difference between "heavy after just watering" vs. "Getting very light and dry so it's time to water". It's very helpful when you can feel the difference.

Angled early morning direct sunlight might not be too harsh if it's only a few hours and the rest of the day is indirect bright light. All day direct sunlight is too much!