In checking on this mower, there appears to be three different switches on this older model that could be causing this issue. We would advise you to check all 3: Neutral switch, Seat switch, and PTO switch. Please contact our Tech Service group if you have questions - (920) 756-4688. Thanks. This post was edited by MaryLyn.1 on Wed, Jun 26, 13 at 9:43

I found these numbers on the heat baffle. 111682 0135 E1 990709F7 The mower wouldn't start, so after checking a few things, i found no spark from the plug. So i replaced the plug but still no spark. I removed the kill switch wire from the ignition coil and tried starting the engine but it still wouldn't start. The ignition coil was very rusty, so i removed as much rust as i could, thinking that maybe it wasn't grounded with all the rust on it, but still no good. I've heard that these coils do rarely fail but i think mines has. What do you think? Thanks for your help.

I have a very similar problem with a Briggs & Stratton 17 HP engine. I have put in a new carb overhaul kit. (The float was gunked up pretty bad, but now looks new, checked for leak or holes in it, found no indication that float is damaged.) Put carb back on engine. Engine runs, but poorly. It sounds likes it chugging, noticing black smoke out of exhaust especially at Idle. One thing I didn't notice in all the above posts. Is the adjustment needle on the carb an IDLE adjustment needle or a main needle? What is the initial setting? The engine does have spark. Although one spark plug shows more of an orange spark rather than blue. Both plugs were damp from unburned fuel when I removed them. (They are old plugs.) Engine running: It'll sit and run. I can drive the tractor. However when I slowly engage the mower blades (blades are new, bearings are good, belt is new) the engine dies, unless I quickly disengage the blades and apply full choke. Heading out to store to get new spark plugs this morning. I've already poured quite a bit of money in this beast. I may be the one who has a rolling ball of fire!

NO! I didn't say anything about the switch! It could be stuck on, but I certainly have no way to test it. The plug ITSELF MIGHT have a shorting connector. IF your switch is the type that is OPEN when you are in the seat AND if you have a shorting connector, disconnecting it doesn't do a thing because the CONNECTOR still completes the circuit. There is a metal tab that jumpers the contacts when the plug is removed. Inspect the plug for that. IF your switch is the type that COMPLETES the circuit when you are in the seat (Closed), your plug won't have a shorting connector. I have no idea if you have a normally OPEN or normally CLOSED type switch. Maybe somebody disabled the circuit elsewhere on the tractor????