I found this online "But, while the adults rarely cause any problems, the young larvae will feed on the fine root hairs of your plants, causing them to lose vigor and develop yellow leaves. They can also tunnel into the base of cuttings or plant stems, which can be devastating for succulents, leeks, or onion seedlings in particular. Fungus gnats search out moist soil in which to lay their eggs. The eggs are about 1/100 inch in length and laid in clusters. Larvae are translucent gray to white worms, about 1/4 inch long, with shiny black heads. These insects can infest a crop from wet, algae-covered areas in the garden, from contaminated potting soil or by flying short distances from plant to plant." Fill a container with vinegar (red wine vinegar in my case) with a couple drops of dish soap added to break the surface tension. In a couple of hours there are around eight of them. I also ordered this on Amazon. I don´t want them all over my house when I get my meyer lemon tree inside. I hope this information helps.

Any stored clothing, as in woolens? Could be carpet beetles. But that's just a guess until you can post close-ups. Adult insects go toward the light because they "know" it's the way out. The problem is that no one told them about windows.

Just a side note on what is called a Pink Lady Apple Tree if you are interested in some of it's features search for it under Cripps Pink. The name Pink Lady has been trademarked to apply only to the best apples of the year harvested off of Cripps Pink Apple trees, it applies only to the apples not to the tree itself. You may harvest some apples off your tree that qualify to the Pink Lady status and you may harvest ones that only qualify to a Cripps Pink status. I don't particularily like this kind of confusing information to increase sales. By trademarking the name they lead the public to believe there is actually another apple variety out there, and if you already own a Cripps Pink, don't buy Pink Lady,( vis versa) thinking you are getting a different tree. I have included an excerpt for interest sake from a apple orchard that specialized in 300 apple cultivars. The story of Cripps Pink: We’re not sure which is more interesting: the origins of this apple – which was bred in the 1970s using Golden Delicious and the lesser-known Lady William – or the marketing shenanigans that followed. The shenanigans involve the transformation of Cripps Pink into two apples. One is the ‘ultra high-quality’ Pink Lady, the name given to the best third or so of the harvest each year. The other is plain old Cripps Pink, the regular quality apple that’s really just the culls that don’t qualify to be called Pink Lady. All of this is in an effort to market this variety as a deluxe apple.

It needs to be soap, not dish detergent. What we commonly call dish soap actually is detergent and detergent can kill or damage plants much more readily than soap does. he damage can be invisible and leave you wondering why your plant's health is declining, or it can be very visible, especially on plants with very tender foliage, like tomato plants. The foaming goat milk soap you buy would be great if you want to mix up your own. You always should test a homemade spray on a small portion of a plant first, wait 24-48 hours to see if damage results, and then use that same formulation on the rest of your plant or plants if it didn't do any damage to the test area. Any product that is a gentle soap would be fine. I use the Dr. Bronner's line of soaps that all are castile-based inside our house and I use the peppermint soap outdoors to make ants move a pathway so that it isn't running through an area where we walk. Right now I have his lavendar soap, tea tree oil soap and peppermint soap....the liquid versions, which are highly concentrated and last forever. For the garden I use a commercial horticultural soap. I always have and always will. These are precisely formulated and tested and, if used as labeled and with careful attention to ensure you don't use them in high temperatures, they will not harm your plants. Mixing up a spray or drench using a detergent is a little like playing Russian roulette. It might not harm your plants most of the time, but then again on any given occasion that you use it, it might. Why risk it? Soap sprays work by penetrating the insects' waxy cuticle, causing them to desiccate and die. Well, guess what? Plants have a waxy cuticle too (some types more so than others) and soap sprays can harm plants the same way it harms insects. With a commercial insecticidal soap products, the companies have done everything they can to precisely formulate the product so it kills the insects and not the plants. They've tested their formulations. They know how much soap is enough and how much is too much. All that is reflected in their label directions. When you mix up a soap formula at home that precision is gone. No one, including the manufacturer of dish detergents, ever has tested their product to see what ratio of detergent to water gives you a safe spray that kills insects and not plants, so a person is just "guessing" when they use a detergent or, for that matter, even when mixing up a homemade insecticidal soap using actual soap. I can't help wondering if those little insects are young aphids that haven't reached full size yet. Normally herbs are relatively pest-free when grown outdoors. That is because herbs don't have many pest problems and the few pests that show up are easily handled by the beneficial insects that are around. However, when you grow herbs indoors without any beneficial insects around, they are prone to being attacked by mites, aphids, mealy bugs, scale and whiteflies. I've never seen little bugs like you have in any of my containers, indoors or out, and I've been gardening all my life. They might be some little soil-dwelling pest that doesn't hurt anything, but it is hard to tell. If you aren't seeing them up on the plants themselves, then the only damage they might be doing is to the roots if they are doing any damage at all. Be sure you aren't keeping the soil too wet. Wet soil seems to encourage both pests and diseases. There are some organic products that can be applied to the soil as a drench to kill insects in the soil, but I'd hate to use them if I didn't know for a fact that the pests I was seeing were indeed doing some sort of damage. Spinosad is an example of one such product. I don't spray it on my plants as a spray because it is broad-spectrum but I use it in a pelleted form in two different products----one for snails/slugs.sow bugs and pill bugs, and the other for fire ants. I generally don't keep many insecticides around (or, actually, I keep them on a shelf in the potting shed but I rarely actually use them). Almost everything you could find on that shelf in my potting shed today came from Wal-Mart or Tractor Supply, or occasionally from Lowe's or Home Depot. There's only a couple of organic products I have to order online and have shipped because they are not readily available. Now, if you are seeing those little bugs that are in your soil actually move onto the plants, you'd have to do something because at that point you'd know they were likely to damage your plants. I just ignore insects if they aren't doing major damage. It is impossible to have plants that are insect free unless, perhaps, you're using heavy-duty systemic pesticides of a synthetic nature. I grow the herbs you listed (and many others) outdoors and most of them are in the ground and not in pots, and insects don't bother them enough for me to even notice the damage. Do I see insects on the plants? Sure. But I don't see anything other than the most minor damage. In fact, a lot of my herbs are used as companion plants to repel or confuse pest insects. I can't help thinking that if you could put the plants outside for a few hours a day, the pests might disappear on their own, but that's just a guess. Hope this helps, Dawn