Oy Vey! :/ Anyways, thanks all for the advice everyone. :) I ended up yanking out the little one last night because it was limp, again.. but the soil was still damp on top. Apparently in that short time in that soil mix it had started to get root rot. It lost lots of little roots. So, I repotted with rough 50& orchid bark (fir I think), coarse snipped spag moss and a coarser soil with more perilite. I redid the big one as well. It had a bit of rot.. but not as bad as the little one. They are the same mix I used for my cym orchid (who also demands moist but airy feet. Then, I tossed both plants in the shower for a nice leaf washing. Today I have to say they look great. Generally after a repot the leaves are a bit limp and pale for a week or so and seem to give me planty dirty looks for a while. All leaves are turgid and a nice dark green on both this afternoon. Here's hoping they improve! I don't care if they flower.. I just want those big green leaves! I really do want these guys to thrive in the same way I want all my plants to thrive. And, I'm used to trying to mimic nature's conditions at least a little bit. I grow several kinds of orchids and as a result have attempted to replicate mirco-climes in my home with plant groupings, misting and trays, lighting, watering methods and plant potting materiel. I will hold off ferts for a month or so, see how they are looking then. It seems peace lilies are one of those plants everyone grows but few grow well. I'll try this method and if it doesn't work.. I'll keep trying other methods till I find a good one. And exoticrainforest, I've run across your site before when attempting to educate someone about those ^%&^#%&^%&^%* 'ice orchids'. I've also seen planted tanks set up like those on your site with peace lilies in the back (leaves out of the water) that did very well. I'm thinking the IAS is much like the AOS. Hobbyists, growers, pros and not.. all with the same goal of good plants and no matter how. I think that should be the end goal of anyone who gets this hobby stuck under the skin.

Usually, PLs are divided instead of repotted, but either can be done. First, your tree is not going to die if you can purge your thought process of the idea wilting means the plant needs more water. Have faith in the idea that plants in a damp/moist medium will always be able to take up water more efficiently than plants in a wet/soggy medium. The recovery will take 1 of 3 paths. 1) New growth will stop and the leaves will remain in a wilted condition for a period of time until enough new roots are generated to meet the top's moisture needs, Soon after the plant regains turgidity (stops wilting) it will resume growth. 2) Many leaves will die due to the fact a lesser volume of roots isn't going to be able to meet the moisture demands of the pot, which will cause the plant to literally wall off the leaves to prevent further moisture loss, or 3) you could remove at least half of the existing leaves to easy the o/a demand for water. If you do that, concentrate on removing the oldest leaves. If you look very carefully. You'll see the younger leaves are attached to the crown above or closer to the center than attachment point of older leaves. Resume fertilizing when you see the plant pushing new growth. Al

Cloughton, as far as having a pot with no drainage holes and can you grow a plant in such ....YES....you can...but its not recommended. Think of it this way...you know you need to water the plant...but how much. Too much, and you know the water will sit for a time in those stones you are taking up space with. How much of the water is the plant using. If you know, if you can trust your instincts, then there is no barrier to letting your plant grow this way. But most of us cant really tell when the plant is using its water...and how much is being taken up. The roots we know should not be continually surrounded by water...like us, we wouldn't think to stand in water too long--our skin would pay for it. So putting drainage holes in the pot, allows iet it drain away that excess water the plant cant use. When we water, we give it enough that we know has gone down to the roots. Its the roots that feed the plant. And we don't want the roots to be forever standing in water...so we let it drain. If such water was allowed to sit at the roots and not be taken up by the plant, they would soon rot and prevent the plant's tissue to tkae up nourishment. Putting a hole into most containers is easy as long as you take it slow, use the correct drill bit and take precautions so as to not cause the pot to split or crack. Enough of that! I suggest you learn something about "exposures". i.e. from which direction the sun is invited to pay its respects to your plants. Usually we speak in terms of direction. North, east, west and south. Such exposures to sunlight does give to plants certain intensity of the sun's rays. West is slightly warmer than south, which is to a degree warmer than east....and all three of them are warmer than north. Most plants do not do well --- cant do as well...put in a northern exposure. You have heard the expressions...."full"...."partial"...and "shade" when referring to how plants are best suited. Its in their genes. Full sun is that which is normally thought to be of a length of time...8 hours.....down to 6 hours is what benefits those types of plants needing it. Partial sun plants get along famously with 5 --even 4 hours of sunlight. Shade plants....and there are different degrees of shade..are those that do well outside in a northern or to the sides of this exposure...intensity. There are a few houseplants that can do very well in a northern exposure. But, when we think about it, how such exposure limits the sun's intensity to give to our plants what they need, we try our best to find a place to put our plants in so that they receive more fuller sunlight. Then there is the question of seaons. Do you know we get our seasons because the Earth is tilted. If the Earth was not tilted on its axis....all seasons would be the same....the north would be cold...the middle warm...the center hot....and I guess would be where we all live happily ever after. All light then would be the same and we could put our plants in any window and get the same intensity. But that's not the case is it. And Peace Lily...."spathiphyllum" is the Latin name...likes it bright...but just not direct sunlight. But then, because the sun is not shining as bright now as it will later on, we can give the Spath more direct light without putting it in jeopardy. I suggest, for the better sake of the plant, you try to give it a better light source. West or south is suggested. Your heat register causes air currents to flow in and around your room. If a plant is in direct path of such current of air, it can dry out that much quicker and the abrupt change of temeperature can affect badly a plant. How much, depends on many factors concerning the plant. So generally, try to not let your plant be put in a direct path of warm air currents. This also applies to cold air currents....from doors that are constantly being opened and closed. (windows too) Plants too should not be where they can be bumpted into by persons using the traffic paths. Where sunlight is not so bright, and if one wishes to give such light, then try to "raise it"...either by placing it on a pedestal or table or shelf....or hang it up from the ceiling. If walls are of a brighter color--especially white or oft white, such wall can reflect light back to our plants. This can amount to a very helpful way of giving more light to our plants when they need it. Generally, keep a plant trimmed when it is actively growing....it can then fix itself for how we treat it. Too, we often trim our plants' leaves to keep them in good looking order. We use scissors to trim the edges or tips when the occasional brown or yellow shows up. Most housepalnts though are slow --to a point--growers and need not be pruned per se to any great degree. Withdrawing them from light will often cut back their growth potential. Same goes for how much fertilizer we give them and how much water we give them. But don't starve your plant of either should they need it.

Like I said I use some compost in my mix, but that does not say it is the best for plant yield. If that exact same organism was grown in a container with a high porosity mix, or hydroponics for that matter, the plant/organism would be even larger. There is no "magic" that manure or organics have. There are only macro and micronutrients that effect plant growth MOST. If you disagree with me, then you disagree hydroponics do NOT yield more then organic soil grown. I can say right now hydroponics yield more, a big reason is air porosity. For example: The 50/50 of manure and pumice- The manure holds water and buffers ph, and gives a little nutrients. If the grower used a auto watering system with 100% pumace, watering 3 times a day with ph balanced solution of water/ complete fertilizers ect, the plant would be 20% larger. Why? Because of increased air porosity. For my peppers I use the compost in my mix because I want a water holding potting mix that will not dry in the heat. If I had a self watering or auto watering system then I could use a very light high porosity mix, but I need the easy to grow in, water holding abilty of potting mix, for my pepper plants that is. I understand if I use a auto watering system with a high air porosity grow medium- I will need to watch ph a little more, and need to be on top of fertilizing even more direct. With all of that will come a larger harvest per square foot. I am not disagreeing, as I do too use compost im mix. I am just pointing out some things.