should you mix manure in your cactus/succulent soil?
chicagardens
12 years ago
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whip1 Zone 5 NE Ohio
12 years agocactusmcharris, interior BC Z4/5
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Soil mix without chicken manure
Comments (11)If plants do better in sand, where do they get nutrients from? Frequent (monthly) applications of fertilizer. As to the reply from Kellogg, the reply I got wasn't 100% satisfactory, something along the line of "I don't imagine our manure suppliers feed arsenic.." which is, well, you know they do or you don't know? Knowledge not speculation or imagining or guessing. Do they or don't they? Ask them! I looked at the EB Stone product, no manure but it had feather meal and feather meal was loaded with arsenic in one report on the poultry/arsenic situation. Always something...grrr!...See MorePotting mix, regular soil better than cactus/succulent soil?
Comments (5)Personally, I would stay with the C&S mix. If you buy regular soil, you'll have to mix much more perlite in it to achieve the fast draining mix that C&S like. If you do a search on here for potting mediums or potting mixes, you'll get a lot of information and see that most of us are using an almost, if not entirely, soil-less mix. My own consists of pine bark (sold as soil pep), perlite and crushed granite (sold as chicken grit). The reason you were told to mix perlite in with the peat moss is this: if you were to use the C&S mix straight, eventually the peat would dry to a hard clump around the root ball and become hydrophobic, meaning that it would never reabsorb water and allow water to the roots. The perlite will mix in with the peat and create enough spaces around the root ball and throughout the mix that some water will be able to reach the roots. How much water depends on how much perlite you mix in. Nancy...See Moreshould I plant hoya in african violet soil or cactus/succulent soil
Comments (9)The best mix for a hoya is actually soil free. Pick up a bag of fine grade orchid mix (Lowes sells a good orchid mix made by Gubler, get the one in the blue bag). Hoyas are NOT cacti and succulents, and they should not be treated as such. There are some hoyas (austalis ssp. oramicola/rupicola) that would rather be watered once a month, and some hoyas that are very thirsty (buotii, lasiantha, praetorii, javanica/multiflora) and do best grown semi-hydro. The average hoya (carnosa, pubicalyx, most pottsiis, obovata, etc.); however, does best being watered once every 7-10 days. Hoyas are tropical/subtropical plants, and as a rule, they thrive on heat and humidity. There are also exceptions to this rule. Hoyas are epiphytes. In nature, most hoyas grow up trees, using their aerial roots to attach to the trunks. Because hoyas are epiphytic in nature, soil should be avoided or used minimally. Hoyas need a well-draining, airy mix that will provide their roots with enough moisture and areation to prevent rot. The issue with using soil, even when it is mixed in with perlite, is that it compacts. Every time you water, the smaller soil particles sink to the bottom of the pot, compacting together. This leads to blocked drain holes and can cause root rot. The key to a successful, well-draining potting media is to make sure each of your ingredients is the same size. This is another reason I am fond of my mix (1/4 inch orchiata bark, 1/4 inch new zealand sphagum moss or 1/4 inch hydroton balls, and 1/4 inch perlite, one part each...so, if I make 3 cups of mix, it is one cup each ingredient). My mix is expensive, and, unless you have over 300 hoyas, you don't need it (heck, even I don't need it, but it works for me, so I stick with it). I suggested an orchid mix as a substitute, and hoyas do very well in orchid mix. The average hoya should be fed 1/4 strength fertilizer at every watering. I use MiracleGro water soluble tomato food (1/4-1/2 TEAspoon per gallon of water) because it is inexpensive and provides all the micro and macronutrients. The reason you feed at every watering is because in nature, hoyas are fed naturally, in very small amounts. The mists from the jungles run down the trees, and onto the aerial roots of the hoya. Inside this mist water, macro and micronutrients from vegetative decomposition and animal excriment, nourish the hoya in small amounts. Flush your plant once a month to rid the pot of any excess fertilizer residue. You do this by watering the plant for 2-3 minutes straight or soaking the entire pot, plant and all for 2-3 minutes. Hoyas also, for the most part, prefer being rootbound. This means if you repot, don't use a pot bigger than 2 inches larger than the rootball. They like it snug. When you get ready to repot your hoya: *Soak your orchid mix overnight. This flushes out any ecessive tannis that may be present in the bark. It also rids the mix of dust. *The next day, drain and rinse your mix thoroughly. *Remove your plant from the pot. Gently rinse as much of the old potting mix/soil off of the rootball. At this time, check the roots. They should be firm and lack any foul odor. Also, check the stem where the roots attach from. A wee bit of yellow coloration is okay, as long as the stem is firm and has no foul odor. If the stem is soggy, peeling, black, or has a foul odor, you may need to restart your plant entirely by taking cuttings. *Set your plant aside. * If you are using a new pot, soak it in a 1:10 part bleach water solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water) for 10 minutes or so. Rinse thoroughly. If you are reusing your old pot, rinse all the soil off first, and then soak in bleach water solution for 10 minutes or so and rinse. *Add 1 inch of your orchid mix to the bottom of your pot. Place the rootball of your plant in the pot. Add a bit of mix at a time, gently shaking the plant and pot to get the mix thoroughly around the rootball. Once the rootball is thorougly covered in the mix, top off around the base of the plant, if needed. *Wait a week and water....See MoreComparing a Succulent in Gritty Mix Against Commercial Cactus Soil
Comments (5)@meanom most people here mix gritty mix as equal parts of: * granite stone that is 1/4" to 3/8" (no fines or sand) * turface MVP that is filtered, and many people here "cheat" and filter out only particles smaller than 1/16" * bark filtered 1/4" to 3/8". Fortunately, I found a local supplier that prefilters to 1/4" I would recommend using some root hormone to get the roots growing into that medium. Then fertilize maybe starting two weeks later....See Moressk22 Ohio 5b
12 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
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12 years agowhip1 Zone 5 NE Ohio
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11 years agoStush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)