Cosmos Spring Carnival Frieda, I understood OP to be saying KD recommends either light tones or white for all surfaces but she's afraid of an all white kitchen for her situation. Magic, I recall some discussion of Spring or Winter Carnival on this forum. Try searching Kitchens with those terms to see if you can retrieve them. I have a small, but very naturally well lit kitchen in the country. All surfaces get dirty in mud season with animals, light or dark, right? If you haven't scrolled through Houzz kitchen photos, filtering for wood cabinets, putting every kitchen you like without thinking into an ideabook on your houzz page, do that. Then, look back and see if there are countertop/cabinet patterns. I think it comes down to how each counter works with your cabinets. If you could post photos of those, you'll also get feedback.

The top surface of the counter appears to be drying faster than the bottom, so it is shrinking, and that causes the warp. This suggests the wood maybe was not fully dry/stable, OR as suggested above, that layer at the bottom may have played a role. One more thing that has not been mentioned: is there a finish on the bottom to match the top? It should have been varnished to equalize the movement of moisture in and out of both sides of the wood. The crack probably happened, again, because of drying shrinkage, AND the wood was not allowed to 'move' horizontally. If it was secured fastened down across the width of the counter and didn't have any play in the fastening system, that's when it cracks. Wood has a characteristic amount of shrink/expand across the grain and along it, and it varies by species. Plywood is very stable because the grain alternates directions in each layer. Solid wood is more difficult to deal with. This kind of counter top CAN be done and often is. It may need some rethinking and redoing. I built a 36"x48" island 20 years ago with 2" thick solid black walnut and hickory, alternating, each board about 8" wide. It was air-dried lumber I harvested myself. It did cup just a tad after installation but it's been stable ever since.

This seems to have disappeared into the ether. I'm trying to see if it will actually show up now in postings.

wdccruise--Yes, that is a misleading photo of the louvered door area because there is a mirror that inaccurately reflects what the area is truly like. The area is 34" deep, so I can get a fridge in there. You are right that perhaps the GE profile spacemaker may be my best bet. (There is also a Sharp that can also be hung from a cupboard, but it is much deeper than the GE.) My uppers will be 15" deep, so I could also just use a shelf since I have found a couple of basic and cheap microwaves that would be shallow enough to fit. darbuka and all--I guess I didn't mention range ventilation. I am going to have to do recirculating because we have absolutely no way to duct to the outside. I am thinking that I need all the air flow I can get, and a chimney hood will blow the air out at ceiling height rather than right in my face like an OTR would. partim--Good point about not having a landing spot when a microwave is placed in a pantry. che--Great to hear from someone who is actually using exactly the solution I am contemplating. All of you--thanks a lot!