A couple points: If you are actually going to remove 3 yards, it will expand as mentioned above. A general rule is double so that would be 6 yards. However, lots of gravel means less expansion. Expanded dirt with gravel will weigh at least 2000lb per yard. Rock and heavy clay is about 3,000 lb/yard. A pickup truck would simply be insane to haul that to dump as there will be a minimum fee for each dump and you would be making lots of trips. If you absolutely must do it yourself, it would probably be best to hire your local waste hauler to deliver a low roll-off for construction debris. You might run an ad on craigslist or find someone advertising on CL that would come dig it out and haul it off for about the same price. The oil in the soil can get VERY ugly. I hope it is in very localized places. I would dig it out very carefully and get it all into a trash can for disposal. It may cost you several hundred dollars to dispose of that can. You don't want to get caught dumping it anywhere including the trash haul. You may have a serious claim against the seller of the home since it seems you just bought the house. You city may have a procedure to take that waste and it could actually be free. It varies according to your locality. If you are putting in fake grass, you might as well take out the Avo. Even putting in real grass and leaving a small ring will not allow the Avo to thrive. Avo requires fast draining soil and aeration for the roots. Long term will also need to allow the leaves to accumulate around the tree and decompose into the soil to encourage the symbiotic relationship with the microorganisms that allow Avo to absorb water and nutrients. There are lots of trees that would survive in a ring in fake grass but an Avo is NOT one of them.

The dethatcher will work fine for removing debree and clearing to soil surface for better seed to soil contact, but don't expect to use it to slit seed, it will tear the seed up and if you try to drop it low enough to till the soil, you'll break the rines which gets very expensive. Best route after RoundUp proceedure you discribed: 1. Scalp the lawn (as low as you can set your mower without hitting dirt) 2. Rake or power rake to remove debree and expose the soil for seed/soil contact. 3.Seed. 4. Spred a starter fertilizer at a rate of 1# phosphorous per 1000 sq ft. ( or per starter fertilizer bag recommended spreader setting. 5. Topdress (no more than 1/4" thick. (recommend you use peat moss--one 3-4 cu ft bag will cover about 500 sq ft or more--make sure peat moss is dry when you buy it or let it dry on a tarp in the garage--use a dust pan to slowly sprinkle it on turf, you get the hang of it quickly so that you are spreading 1/4" consistently) 6.MOST IMPORTANT; Water the peat moss untill it breaks hydrophobia and accepts water, thenkeep soil moist, not wet--water 3-4 times a day for about 5 - ten minutes each time--do not water until it pools. 7. Once seed germinates (good germination), water 2 times a day for half and hour. About a week later you can drop to watering about 3 times a week (depending on weather) and after the first mow, go to once a week for an inch of water.

I have a sloped back yard around my pool, which is much more steep than your slope in the pictures, covered in St. Augustine. I too detest lawns, but I have no money right now, so my St. Augustine is here to stay. I water my St. Augustine with an irrigation system on my allotted days and once yearly treat with weed/feed. Yes, my St. Aug is great on bare feet and very healthy looking. I have no problems with maintaining it on the slope. I'm not bragging, I'm just trying to explain that I have personal experience with this situation. I think your first problem is with the underlying sand. My underlying soil is a thick layer of decayed organic material, on top of a thin layer of sand, on top of a thick layer of loose clay. It's clear from your photos that the mower tires are disturbing the St. Aug's growth. That is very easy to do regardless of the underlying soil, but especially easy in sand such as you have. I think your second problem is with your lawn guy. Seriously. And, I mean absolutely no offense. Your lawn is covered in weeds. It didn't happen overnight, although sometimes it might seem that way. Your lawn guy should know (1) how to mow on a slope without destroying the roots, (2) how to point out a weed problem before it becomes a massive weed problem like you have. How convenient for him that you need sod replacement?!?! Isn't his job routine lawn care, not routine lawn destroying and replacement? That being said, I have a cheap temporary solution for you. I see in the first picture, to the left of the hose/brick path, you have a bush/tree surrounded by a small circle of mulch. And, in the second picture, you have another tree just down slope from the pool, surrounded by another small circle of mulch. I would take a sharp straight-edged shovel and cut away shovel sized squares of sod in a circular pattern around those trees. Making much, much larger circles around the trees. Take a section of the sandy/weedy area, cover thickly in newspaper, wet newspaper, then lay your homemade sod squares on top of the wet paper. Water daily until they take root and can survive on their own. Go back and extend the mulched area around the two trees, so your weed problem doesn't extend under the trees. This should really be done in stages, because the sod squares that you cut out and move need to be kept wet during the moving process. I say my solution is cheap, because you can buy mulch for $1.68 at the big box stores these days, and you would probably need 10 bags. Less than $20. Of course you will have a little extra water expense from having to water daily to establish the newly sodded sections. It is a little bit back breaking, but I'm sure you can either do it or find someone to help. I say my solution is temporary because, ideally, you could eventually plant some sort of hearty, Florida friendly ground cover over that entire area. In the long run it will not require as much water or care as St. Augustine, and you can get rid of the expensive lawn guy! Things to remember: Don't put any weed and feed down on the newly sodded sections either immediately before or after laying the sod. Don't forget to water daily until the new sections have taken hold. Especially during this, our driest time of year. If you choose to use RoundUp on the weedy areas before moving the grass squares, don't lay the grass squares directly on the area treated with RoundUp unless you put in a layer of newspaper or cardboard first. If you can get your hands on some liriope, you could make a border along the brick walk (at the top of the slope), to help hold it all together. Their roots tend to spread out rather than down, so it will keep slope erosion in better check. Lastly, don't let that man with the mower anywhere near the new section. Weed-whacker only until it's established. You probably won't need to mow this area for the next 6 weeks anyway. Maybe someone else will have a better/easier solution, but this is what I did and it works. I certainly welcome any criticism or comments on my suggestion.

Ilene, I am going to start with the ants, because they a huge problem in and of themselves. I am assuming the ants we are discussing are fire ants? I try to garden as organically as possible, but controlling fire ants has been one of the areas for which the organic community has had lots of 'possible' solutions......and none of them worked well for me in the past. I've tried everything from beneficial nematodes to orange oil sprays (Citrex Fire Ant killer), corn meal, grits, garlic-pepper sprays, cedar oil, cedar mulch, mint tea, dried mint leaves, etc. I have FINALLY found an organic product that works for me in terms of removing fire ants from the raised beds in the veggie garden. The active ingredient is called Serenade and it is effective not only on fire ants but also is very effective when sprayed on tomato plants to reduce foliar fungal and bacterial diseases. The Serenade I use on the tomato plants comes in a spray bottle. The Seremade I use on fire ants comes in a granular formation. I buy the one made by Safer and I think it is called Safer Fire Ant Killer. I have used it this year in my raised beds and it has worked for me. In the yard area, away from any place that we grow veggies, tree nuts or fruits, I use Over 'N Out. It is amazing. I only have to use it once every 3 or 4 years. I don't like using chemicals, but will use them if needed and IF they provide the desired results. Over 'N Out does work but you cannot use it near anything edible, and it has a long half-life in the soil, so you can't use it in any area where you will eventually grow something edible. Now, as to the strawberry issues. I think the best plan is to start over with a new bed so that you can begin with NO grass in it. The problem with bermuda grass is that if you leave any stolon that is at least 1/4" long, it will grow and spread and RAPIDLY at that. That is why no amount of digging will get it all....there is always that tiny stray piece here and there that will regrow. If it were me, I would spray the area where the new bed will be with Round-Up or a similar glyphosate and give it time to work. I would lay down either cardboard or several layers of newspaper to help smother any grass that tried to regrow and lay down the good-quality heavy-duty weedblock fabric on top of that. I would build the bed on top of that. You DO need to have the fabric extend outside the edging of the bed or grass will creep up INSIDE between the fabric and bed edging. If it were me, I would extend the fabric out a foot or two from the bed, cover it with mulch, and maintain it as a pathway around the raised bed. At the edge of the fabric, I would use that metal green landscape edging to keep grass from creeping into the mulched path AND to help keep the mower from hitting the edge of the fabric or the mulch. It is a lot of extra work, but as you already know, it is easier to prevent bermuda grass than it is to remove it once it infiltrates an area. As far as holding the strawberries over in the fridge or freezer, I don't know how long they can be held in cold storage, but I think it is possible to hold them for months, although perhaps not desirable. I made the decision years ago (after growing strawberries) that growing strawberries in our climate required more time and effort than I was willing to give them in light of the fact that I have a huge veggie garden, fruit trees, nut trees and lots of acreage to maintain. You may want to consider whether strawberries are worth the time and money you will have to invest in them in comparison to the size of the harvest you get. On the other hand, if growing your own gives you great joy, then go for it! Dawn