Here is the Schluter anodized aluminum Jolly edge in polished nickel in my daughter 's bathroom. And here it is in satin nickel in my kitchen Their Quadec style is available in stainless steel but it is quite a bit more expensive. The website shown in the post above this one, lists the material and finishes that are available for each style. There are other metallic color options besides silver.

It's going to move back and forth as the seasons change. The only place the movement is evident on our house is in a belt that runs all the way around the house. It needed several 20 ft boards end-to-end across the front. We knew it would move, so did not glue the ends together but rather scarfed the joints and painted the ends the trim color. In winter there is a small gap (1/8-3/16") at the extreme), but not very visible, disguised by having paint on the exposed ends. There's flashing on the top edge and behind the joints to keep the water out of the wall. Wherever possible you can overlap ends so that movement shows up behind something else. A flexible caulk applied when the weather is cool (~50) seems generally to be working fine with shorter boards like window trim and corner boards. I don't know if the coefficient of expansion is different for different cPVC products, we used Azek. They spec 1/8" per 18 ft. You definitely don't want to butt it tight if you're installing when it's cold out, it will expand and possibly bulge.

Are you guys referring to the exterior window trim having some sort of wood or insulation under it in order for the window casing to stick out more than the siding? we have wood siding which we plan on keeping. We aren thinking of using pvc trim amd having it painted. Can we install pvc exterior trim without a new construction installation?

I've been going back and forth on this same topic for the white ceramic subway tile I'll be installing as a backsplash in my kitchen. I'm using a 2"x4" mosaic. The problem is they don't make matching bullnose pieces. I can get them in bigger sizes and try and cut them down with a wet saw, but they're thicker than the mosaic (1/4" vs. 5/16"). I'll have some areas where the edge of the tile is open (i.e. doesn't terminate into a wall or cabinet). For those edges, I really just want a matching 2"x4" bullnose piece with the bullnose on the short edge. In the upper corner, I want a 2"x4" bullnose piece with a bullnose on both the short and long edges. For the top row where it's open, I want 2"x4" bullnose pieces with the bullnose on the long edge. I looked at the Schluter, but I really didn't like it. I'm going for a more rustic look, and I think it has more of a modern look. The solution I finally found was a place down in Cincinnati where you send them pieces of your field tile and they make them into bullnose pieces to your specification with a kiln fired finish. That way everything matches my field tile. It's costing me about $4 per bullnose tile, but it's giving me exactly the look I want. I think they have a minimum order amount of $50.