Consequences of make-up air
H J
3 years ago
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mike_home
3 years agokaseki
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoRelated Discussions
Make-up air dilemma - WWYD?
Comments (34)Hollysprings - thanks for the enlightenment. I've been trying to find as much info as possible on mua, so I can be in the "know" and make the right decision. I'd not heard of anyone paying that much for mua, so it's interesting that you think this is average. Not giving up the range, so I'll search until I find a good solution that includes safety - don't want anyone reading about me on the news!!! Clueless - thanks for the reinforcement. I'm not opposed to mua at all, just to the cost, which I thought was pretty steep. Hough - thanks for the link. Good to know this worked in MI. Will research further. Kks - at this point I'm hoping I don't have to find out what 13K covers by finding another SAFE alternative that isn't so costly. Megan - good luck. If I come across anything applicable I will post. Again - thanks all. Really appreciate the advise and options!!!...See More300cfm Hood vs. 600cfm Hood Requiring Make Up Air?
Comments (11)It would be best to start any quest involving kitchen ventilation to study the literature, or at least study the many many threads here on the topic. I would prefer to write answers to questions that are based on my possibly inadequate previous writing than generate yet another long message covering the entire topic. You may wish to start with the "Hood FAQ" which can be found by searching. I believe it is listed under @opaone. Hoods are about capture and containment, and success in this depends on many factors, the most critical of which is sufficient air flow velocity at the hood entry to ensure that which is captured is contained and expelled from the residence. This velocity is independent of how many burners are running at once, but rather what the cooking surface temperature is plus plume heat augmentation by gas burners. In any case, the 100 CFM per 1000 BTUh is derived from certain standardized commercial hoods, not residential hoods. See the Greenheck Guide available at https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf for comparison between the 100 CFM per rule of thumb and the hood aperture velocity rule. I suggest 90 CFM per square foot of hood entry aperture, and this aperture needs to be large enough to overlap the rising and expanding cooking plumes. Let me adjust the salesman's statement: "...because the design pulls more air than a filtered/baffled hood of the same [zero static pressure rated] cfm [when hanging unattached to anything in free air]." Ventahood use squirrel-cage blowers that also perform the function of baffle filters, thereby eliminating that cause of pressure loss. However, as blowers go, they are more susceptible to other pressure losses than conventional blowers, and hence if there is extensive ducting, or inadequate MUA, their flow rate will be less than the actual rate asserted. My guess is that you should have a 24 x 42 inch hood aperture, requiring an actual 630 CFM obtained from a 900 - 1000 CFM rated blower. Read MUA related threads to determine how closely the interior air pressure has to match the exterior air pressure for safety. Your state may require heated MUA. There are a lot of ways to accomplish MUA under these conditions, and the threads here should help you understand what you have to tell us to allow better tailored help. kas...See MoreCost to add a make-up air system for kitchen?
Comments (65)We've got all the intake and exhaust ducting done. Waiting on him to come back out so we can do all the wiring/testing/adjusting. The intake is shown above. This connects into the 14" return duct. I took out the Honeywell controller. On the "Off" position, it says "remote switch only". This is awesome and actually answers my question without having to look in the instructions. "On" can be used from Mar-June and from October to November-ish and will act as a Fresh Air system, given the balancing adjustments are made and such from the HVAC guy. "Off" can be used for the extreme months. Even in "Off" position, it will STILL open after we hook up a switch from the range hood to the damper. This is great news. Basically, "Off" is make-up air only, and "On" will be fresh air AND make-up air. The only thing that will deserve some extra credit is if we can wire it in a way for the Honeywell switch to ignore if it's on low speed. Not a big deal though. I thought of one awesome benefit that I didn't think about for make-up air. I have a small theater room that gets warmer than most rooms. We installed a jumper duct to the hallway where the main return is. That works great, as long as air handler is on. And it works "OK" at best. But with the fresh air system, this should help regulate the theater room temps in this situation which happens a lot: 6:00PM. Outside is 66-69F after the end of a pretty hot day. House T-stat is 71F. Theater room is 74-75F. Before the fresh air system, the only way to cool this room down would be to turn on the A/C. This increases the chance of freezing and is not really solving the problem. But I'm thinking now with the fresh air systems kicking on at usual intervals, blowing in 66-69F air from the outside should help reduce theater room temperatures and at least provide more air flow....See Morehow do you like your Electro Industries make up air system?
Comments (2)I've got an Electro Industires unit sitting on my living room floor....does that count? It is going to go in the attic and like you the Fantech would not have fit. Having a lot of trouble getting someone to put it in (small town, labor shortages etc). They are "supposed" to come next week so we will see.... I agree, not too many reviews at all! Will keep you posted....See MoreElmer J Fudd
3 years agoH J
3 years agoElmer J Fudd
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agokaseki
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoH J
3 years agoElmer J Fudd
3 years ago
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