Besides this, how many quotes did you get? When you get estimates for your roofing job, ask each contractor what they charge psf to replace any rotted decking. How many layers are allowed in your municipality to remain within code? If there is only one layer, it depends on the condition of whatever lies beneath to determine whether to install another layer over it, or to remove/repair/replace whatever needs to be before installing the new layer. I'm guessing your roofing contractor won't know the true condition of what lies beneath the first layer of shingles until they're removed, unless s/he can get a decent view from the attic. What about gutters - do you already have them? Will this be part of the job? If installed/pitched properly, this will prevent water runoff/drainage directly against the face of the structure (or wherever the water runs off). What should you ask? - contractor registration # (confirm it's up-to-date and its history of problems/complaints with your state contractors board) - insurance carrier (verify it's in full effect with sufficient coverage, so your roofer is covered in the event of any accidents - better on their insurance than your homeowner insurance) - cost breakdown - pros/cons of using one material over another - what materials will be used (warranty info) - how the job will be accomplished (guarantee of work) - list of references for similar type work (call and make appointments to see the work first-hand up close & personal) - get everything in writing! Hope this helps ~ good luck!

If there is a structural concern, you can hire a structural engineer. A general home inspector will not know as much as they do, and may over or under call the severity of the problem. As far as not having zoned heat, that is quite common and I do not believe it is reasonable to ask the seller to switch to zoned heat. It is nice if you are willing to accept bathrooms as is since you will be updating. You need to decide if any of the disclosed conditions are deal breakers for you if the seller refuses to give you a credit to repair them. Some of the brinck issues I am not sure if they need to be fixed now or if condition is simply being noted. I would much prefer a credit since the seller would likely fix in the cheapest possible way. If the water heater is safety issue I would fix before moving in. No house is perfect. On our house there were clerestory windows with broken seals and humidity within the panes. The seller did agree to credit us up to our pre agreed repair cost. It bothered me at first, but we never fixed it and I never even notice it anymore. $19,000 is a lot in repairs. But since I am not clear what is absolutely needed vs rec to get the house as perfect as possible, i am not sure it would scare me away. And the amount I would be willing to pay for myself would depend on the market and how much I wanted the house. Windows and doors could be as simple as painted or need a little planing the inspector would not do. With my house, there were a number of thermostats they noted did not work, when the only problem was a dead battery inspectors were not willing to replace. The inspector noted loose toilets as well as a problem with a water heater and other plumbing issues. The plumber said the toilets were not loose and the water heater was also fine. (In other words, I trusted the licensed plumber I have used many years more than the general home inspector) Also, a contractor's estimate is an actual estimate vs the inspector's guesstimate. Best wishes, these are the types of things that can easily kill a sale. But, big problems can be worked through if you and the sellers can agree on a fair price adjustment. lafdr

The roofing guy came today. He looked at the inside, under the eaves, where the leak was. Then he used a ladder to climb onto the roof. In 15 minutes, it was fixed! A roofing nail had worked its way out and was poking up the shingles. He said my 20 yo shingles look good. The guy wouldn't accept payment. I did persuade him to accept a glass of cold water. I am so relieved!

They’re only warranting the tub to hold water, which it will. They aren’t concerning themselves with the shower portion. Which will be compromised by the cracked tiling flange. They aren’t part of and don’t care about what comes after their product. They don’t warrant that part, and they are not informed about TCNA standards. The tiling flange must be intact. No qualified tiler would accept that as a substrate to tile over. It either must have an acceptable fiberglass crack repair, or the tub must be replaced. An acceptable repair would be similar to repairing wall plaster. You make the crack larger, in order for it to have a key, and you fill it with fiber reinforced resin and fiberglass tape. Its not a $100 fix unless the guy lives next door and is a friend. It’s a $300-600 fix, depending on travel time to your location. Or, it’s DIY, with a tub repair kit from a box store. Where you have to really guard against creating a hump or bump that would need to be ground down in order for the cement board to fit properly. Working with fiberglass and resin is itchy because the glass fibers can embed in the skin, and some people are allergic to that or the resins.