Back to the future
6 years ago
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Back to the future again
Comments (1)I guess this particular one and I would imagine the rest of them similar to Cirrus have serious height limitations, - they should not be mounted more than 6 ft from cook-top surfaces and even then it's pushing the limits. Back to the future again...See MoreBooks with which to (re)start a civilization
Comments (46)Chris, perhaps I'm getting too laid-back in old age, and laudable as the aims of your 'civilisation' are I don't think I have the energy (or brainpower) "to strive, to seek . . ." etc. It does seem a pity that conflict is the inevitable outcome of a new improved way of life. I don't suppose you will want to join me on my small but friendly Pacific Island . . . and for you all from the US who may be rather bothered by the idea of 'collective ownership' and obviously set great store on keeping thieving hands off your own property, I only had in mind sharing the frisbee and the tarp (against those tsunamis). Luckily my own toothbrush was in some deep pocket at the time of the End-of-the-World-as-we-Know-it. There are limits to sharing . . . although I would welcome Carolyn and her soap; eating all that pork makes the mitts a tad greasy. And Dyno, I'm sure there must be a role for lawyers . . .what did the 'ancient' members of your profession do when it first came into being? I expect you are familiar with the strange 'John Frum' worship movement in the South Seas. Here is a link that might be useful: John Frum...See MoreWater hammer after turning main back on (returning from vacation)
Comments (14)Here's what we did but I don't know if it's at all helpful in your situation. The banging was only at one sink - the kitchen - and only when turned the faucet on full force. Our solution was we just didn't turn it on full force, haha. That was the short-term solution. Then we had a plumber come in for something else and asked about that kitchen faucet banging and he said that the only solution is to open up the third floor shower plumbing and put in two aerators to help the air escape from the line. But we didn't do that. Instead, the next time we left home for 2 weeks we tried turning off the main and turning it back on in the order he recommended which was: He said in the summertime if you want to shut the water off to the house, just shut off the water main in the basement. There is no need to open up the faucets at that time. When you return, open up the third floor sink and shower faucets, and then turn on the water main slowly until the water is running out of the third-floor faucets at full speed. He said in the wintertime you can do the same process as long as you leave the heater on in the house you shouldn't have to worry about pipes freezing. So either shutting the main off and back on with faucets open on the third floor helped solve that kitchen faucet problem or it somehow resolved itself and that was a coincidence. Either way, it no longer makes the banging noise. I don't know that that will help you but good luck!...See MoreBack to the (future) NXR
Comments (26)I think your existing kitchen layout and your wife have already nixed a "proper" hood if you mean one with an optimal design. As has been said elsewhere here, we work with the kitchens we have. A lot of us have to work with less than optimal hood choices and that is just how it is. Just because you can't have the best possible thing doesn't mean you cannot have something adequate. For searching on hoods and MUA, our resident ventilation guru is kaseki. If you want advice on "optimal" above a 30-inch NXR, then you want something that is: 27" inches deep (front to back) for best coverage and capture above all four burners; 36" wide (side to side) to capture cooking effluent that might go a bit sidewise because of turbulence; and a canopy tall enough (probably 18" high at least) to provide good containment. Sound like a no-go for you? Rules of thumb for CFM? These take no account of hood design. (ETA -- I only saw Eric's post after I uploaded this, so I apologize for the duplication). For electric stoves (including induction) and less-expensive standard brand gas ranges and cooktops, the rule of thumb is 100 CFM per linear foot of stovetop. For a 30-inch wide stove --- that is 2½ linear feet --- the rule of thumb is 100 CFM x 2.5 ft = 250 CFM. For pro-style gas cooktops and stoves (including the NXR) the rule of thumb is 1 CFM per 100 btu of burner ratings. With the NXR having 4 burners of 15k each, that translates to 600 CFM. You mentioned reading Nunya's NXR postings from two and three years ago. I'm guessing you've seen the discussions and photos about using 400 CFM OTR/MW units over NXR ranges. We work with the budgets and kitchens and preferences we have. (Verdict on OTRS? Adequate for those folks' cooking but not optimal and maybe requiring opened windows sometimes.) My own old-house kitchen is such that I only had room for a 650 CFM Zephyr Cyclone. It has a flat bottom (as opposed to a canopy), is only 5½" tall (so no room for much canopy anyway) and only 23" front to back (but, at least, that is far enough back that I'm not bumping into it while cooking.) At least cabinets were high enough to allow for a 36" wide unit, though. What this gives me is: tolerable for heat removal from the room (better than nothing for the person standing at the stove but fine for the rest of the kitchen); it collects and fllters much the greasy effluent (I clean the traps regularly and do not have to clean grease off the cabinetry and counters very often). Mostly adequate on steam collection. (I also tend to put the big pots in the back where the collection/pick-up is a bit better,) Seriously suboptimal for anything smokey even with the windows opened and the ceiling fan helping out. (I don't do heavy-duty wokking and blackened whatevers and serious grilling get done outdoors.) Note, whatever you get, you will want a smooth and hard-sufaced, easily cleaned backsplash because you will get a bunch of goo back there. It needs to go all the way up to the bottom of the hood (if not behind it). I had our local glass shop fabricate a tempered glass plate for me and it is very easy to clean. Other options include a metal plate (a lot of folks like stainless steel) and tile (specifically something with a hard glossy surface as on subway or glass tiles.) Quite apart from whether you have code requirements, you want to pay attention to MUA issues. Its the laws of physics that are important here, not just regulatory requirements. Depending on your house's design and construction, MUA can be simple and cheap or complicated and expensive. With my gas water heater and furnace in the basement, well away from the kitchen range hood, I was able to build MUA systems for them for very little money (less than $20 each). I have had no problems with backdrafting from the range hood. YMMV....See More- 6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoKennsWoods thanked Zalco/bring back Sophie!
- 6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoKennsWoods thanked Zalco/bring back Sophie!
- 6 years ago
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