I'm not sure I'd wait until after winter. Pothos is very hardy, and will tolerat repotting any time of the year, but if the plant is already in decline, 1) it could go south. very fast over winter, and 2) it will have lost much vigor by spring. If it were mine, I'd repot earlier rather than later. You can keep it bushier by pinching branches often. Just take off the last few nodes, stick the piece in water, then pot it with the parent. The branch you pinched will branch, thus becoming fuller, and you'll have a new branch back in the pit once the pinched piece roots. It'll keep your plant lush and full rather than leggy. Some people like leggy pothos though. I once saw a single stem wrapped all the way around the inside wall of a ferry terminal in Alaska - at least 200', probably more like twice that far. An interesting factoid about pothos is that the leaves grow larger as the stems climb upward rather than horizontally or hanging. I'm sure other conditions must be optimal also, but giving the plant a moss stick to climb will give your plant a very different look.

Deleted duplicate post. This post was edited by susanzone5 on Thu, Feb 6, 14 at 18:29

As you have discovered, there are a number of different "solutions" presented here. Pothos are very durable and so lend themselves to a number of different growing conditions. :-) Long and short of it is that, yes, the plant should be salvageable. Remove the black, stringy roots on the right half of the root mass in your first photo -- they're dead. The ones on the left side look viable. You have a number of options as mentioned above as well as that of combining options. After removal of the dead material, I'd give the root mass a good soak for an hour or so. You then can do any number of things. Such as: 1. Pot the plant up in lightly moist soil. Personally, I would enclose the vines in a clear plastic bag for a few days. This will reduce water loss through the leaves while the roots work to uptake water to rehydrate the plant. or 2. Put the entire plant mass in a large clear bag with some damp sphagnum moss wrapping around the roots for a couple days, then repeat the root soak. You could the repeat the bagging and soaking process a few times or go to method 1. or 3. Hedge you bets by cutting the vines back by about 1/3 - 1/2. Root the cuttings in water and use method 1 or 2 for the remaining rooted portion. Which ever method(s) you use, keep the plant in a warm area out of direct sun until it recovers. It may take the plant up to a week for the leaves to perk up.

Yours looks very thirsty. You should get it out of the grower's pot and into a new pot with drain holes and a potting mix that is relatively fast draining. The high-peat mix growers use is only a temporary measure. Cut a good potting mix with 1/3 perlite and 1/3 fir bark -- or if you can't manage bark, at least do a 50/50 perlite to potting mix blend. Avoid all "moisture control" mixes as they turn to sludge in the pot and suffocate the roots. Water when a dowel pressed down to the bottom of the pot comes out mostly dry. My scindapsus gets a few hours of morning sun followed by dappled sun, followed by full shade. It cannot tolerate all day full sun, if that's what you're giving it. In nature, they grow up trees with their roots loosely weaving through leaf litter and rotting bark. Like other epiphytes, they want dappled sun/shade, free roots, something for aerial roots to cling to (optional for houseplants), high humidity, and frequent rain. My house is quite warm in the summertime heat, so I'm having to water mine at least twice a week right now.