POTHOS: Do you know what I've done wrong?
Nat Michelle
5 years ago
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jamilalshaw26
5 years agoRelated Discussions
The way I've always done it, but HATE it
Comments (26)You've gotten some great advice here. I'll just second the advice to build raised beds in there and try square foot gardening. A 6"x8' long board is about $4 and it'll take three of them to make a 4'x8' bed. If you don't have any tools, this is still doable. Ask the lumberyard to cut one of the three boards in half ~ those will be your ends (they'll make one cut for free). Then all you have to buy is a hammer and some 16-penny nails, or a drill and 3" decking screws (drilling in screws many times is easier and makes for stronger connections, so might be worth the twenty bucks for a cheap drill) and assemble them when you get home. It's super easy to make the beds if you first shovel a few inches of soil from your walkways over into where you plan to put the permanent beds. Then, assemble the wood frames around those long piles and rake them down. No extra fill dirt needed. (Do stand back and look after you get the long piles done ~ it's funny to see your garden looking like Boot Hill the day after the gunfight. ;) I did some quick calculations and you can fit a LOT of beds in your space! That's how many will easily fit, leaving a few feet extra on one end. Those are all 4'x8' beds with three foot wide walkways horizonatally and 2' wide walkways vertically. It's very important to have nice, wide paths that are easy-peasy to get down with a wheelbarrow or garden cart or you'll be back to hating working in your garden. Making them wider if you want wouldn't be bad either ~ you have plenty of room. The vertical ones need not be as wide as the two main ones since you likely won't be hauling a wheelbarrow down those, though if you think you will, by all means take out a line or two of beds and make them winder. Dress it up somewhat by leaving out a couple beds in the middle and putting a pond or fountain in with a bench so you can enjoy being out there. Maybe adding an arbor in one corner over a sitting area would be nice ~ just cut out another one of the beds over there. Want a compost pile, potting bench, or whathaveyou? Omit a bed or two and put it in. Make it pretty out there and you'll be more likely to be in it more, thus staying on top of things and not letting them build up into bigger problems that make you hate it again. Put a fence around your garden, too. Even just an ornamental one. It defines the space and makes it easier to keep the inside organized. It'd be nice to put a 2' wide bed all the way around the edge of the garden, too. That way, the fence can double as a trellis. Again, just shorten some of the beds, or rearrange them. You don't have to build all the beds in one year either. Just do as many as you can afford, then plant the rest in bush beans, a cover crop, blocks of corn, or melons ~ they'd have plenty of room to sprawl. Buy some concrete reinforcement wire to make tomato cages out of. Cut it into 6.5" pieces, form into a circle, and wire together ~ cut the bottom wire off leaving the vertical wires for legs to stick into the soil to help "stake" the cage in place. Learn about square foot gardening, either on the forum here about it, the website devoted to it or buy the book. It's really a nifty technique. You don't have to use the soil mix recommended, especially since you likely have enough soil already ~ just use the planting guidelines. It'll help you plant more intensively, which keeps weeds down and moisture in since the plants are so close together they act as a living mulch. And SFG encourages you to plant things all in together instead of blocks or sections of each type of veggie. Doing it this way, with bush beans under your okra, lettuce tucked in snugly beside your kale, etc., makes the whole thing look prettier. Lay out some more of that concrete reinforcement wire atop your wooden beds and nail in place, lining up the wires with the sides. Then, use some small bolt cutters to cut out sections of the wire to make 12"x12" squares instead of 6"x6" and you'll have your square foot guides all done and will be ready to plant. Here's a bed done that way already, with a few other size planting guides laying atop the main one: And definitely plant flowers in there. Lots and lots of flowers! Yes, they attract pollinators and other beneficial insects, and because some kinds do deter other pests. But mostly plant them just because. As one of my fave quotes says: "Vegetable gardens feed your body, while flower gardens feed your soul."...See MoreDark Spots On Pothos' Leaves...What's Wrong? Please Help!
Comments (67)Re houseplants: most spoiled foliage is caused by physiological issues, over/under-watering, oedema, nutritional toxicities/ deficiencies, light levels, ...... with subsequent populations of fungi acting as opportunists as opposed to acting as causal agents. In this thread, oedema, a physiological disorder, is the main actor. Dead animals don't cause vultures, but they do provide a reason for vultures to congregate. IOW, lesions caused by physiological disorder often provide the consistently moist conditions for a period lasting long enough to ensure incubation and germination of fungal spores. This isn't to say that fungal conditions do not commonly appear in plants as pioneer pathogens, only that evidence of physiological disorder is far more common than direct evidence of pioneer populations of fungi. Plant pathologists often describe the disease process using a 4-sided figure called the disease tetrahedron (think “pyramid – 3 sides + the bottom/ base”). Each side of the tetrahedron represents an essential part of the infection process. There must simultaneously be a virulent pathogen (capable of infecting the plant) that is genetically capable of recognizing its host. Either the environment must be conducive to the development of the pathogen, or the pathogen must be able to stress/weaken the plant. The 4th requirement is the time required for diseases to develop and spread. Whenever conditions are such that any one (or more) of the 4 requirements is missing from the equation, there is no immediate threat. Since the best medicines are prophylactic, the grower who makes sure plants are healthy and not stressed is ahead of the game. Biotic diseases are better able to overcome the natural defenses of plants weakened by stress that occurs when the plant is forced to deal with cultural conditions near, at, or beyond the limits the plant is genetically programmed to deal with. Al...See MoreI've done it. Brought a orchid. Now what?
Comments (9)Note - punctuation may be weird cuz this was copied and pasted from a Word doc. Hi Mike. Welcome to the forum and to orchids. A quick note - a lot of people start in orchids like Steph/Dragon Kite describes - seeing what will grow for you. Different orchids need way different growing conditions, as ifraser mentioned. Another approach is to figure out the environment you can provide for an orchid and look for orchids that will most likely thrive in it. Basic environment elements are light, temperature ranges, watering methods, and air circulation. Most people's homes are suitable for Phals. The nickname of your 1st orchid is Phal, pronounced FAIL, just as the label says. One book that's helped boatloads of new orchid folks is "Ortho's All About Orchids." Check Amazon for the paperback. A couple of weeks ago, it was $2.70 + shipping. Another good resource is the AOS (American Orchid Society) site. One section is "Now That I Have This Plant, What Do I Do With It?" On that page is a link to ORCHIDS 101, the AOS "quick start guide to orchid culture." You can sign up for their free beginner's newsletter. These aren't the only good resources, but tons of orchid books and online resources have info that's just plain wrong, and as you said, it can be overwhelming. Some of the bad info's harmless, but some of it could compromise the health of your orchid. On this forum, opinions on culture differ, even among experienced growers. That's part of the challenge - finding out what works for your orchids. A couple of other basics: 1. Your orchid may have come in a plastic pot inside a decorative outside pot. Or the plastic pot may have festive paper around it. Be sure that inner orchid pot has drainage holes in the bottom, so water can drain. Also, make sure your orchid pot never sits in water. That means, if you keep any outside pot or paper for the pot, the orchid must drain completely before you put it back in the decorative whatever. 2. If your water is softened, you'll need another source of water for your orchid. The salts will kill the orchid. 3. Most orchid deaths are caused by over watering. You may know that, in the wild, Phals usually grow on the trunk or branch of a tree with their roots bare. The roots get water and nutrients when it rains, and breezes keep them from staying wet too long, keep bugs away, etc. Our challenge is to create an environment close enough to the wild that the orchid will thrive. Pots and potting media - usually bark or moss - are for our convenience. At first, all the info may seem yes - overwhelming - it sure has for thousands of people who became successful hobbyists. In the near future, terms will begin sounding familiar (they may already). You're launched! :) Let us know when more questions come up. Whitecat8 Here is a link that might be useful: Now That I Have This Plant, What Do I Do With It?...See MoreI've had it - I'm done! You?
Comments (16)Yes, Lucille, I guess it was the culmination of a lot of 'scares" over a relatively short time and longer term over my life! Recently I even had a mason replace the ancient basement windows of my new house with good double pane windows and a week later they all looked like a scene from Arachnophobia - that really freaked me out! Anyway, the box is still in the driveway! I intend to empty it into the trash when the barrel is out on the curb. I have rethought my plan for all the many plants I was planning to dig up and have decided to take only a special few. (in the back of a truck; not in my car!) That'll be enough. It's so hard to explain the indifference I feel, but yes, it's a line crossed that feels permanent......Annie - that sounded major, not minor! Trail, that's exactly what I mean, a major shift in one's life trajectory over a seemingly minor event. You had enjoyed and identified yourself with that career and suddenly, done! Mine being much less significant but still I've always felt myself a gardener. I suddenly don't any longer. Patty - I've seen nursery spiders with babies which is fascinating, but horrifying to me. Arcy-I would like to read about that family! and, yeah, gardening has always been a bit of a challenge for me, but I've managed. Until now. Rhizo, right now I feel too old to want to change or maybe it's about not wanting to put myself through the stress. There has always been tension there; I just don't want to inrease the odds that I'll have to deal with it. I'd be better off living in a condo, but I love land and space around me and my privacy. So given that, I'll have to find a way to limit my exposure. Anyway, thank you all!...See MoreNat Michelle
5 years agoNat Michelle
5 years agoNat Michelle
5 years agotheparsley
5 years agotropicbreezent
5 years agolitterbuggy (z7b, Utah)
5 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
5 years agomassey516 (NW Montana z 4b)
5 years agoNat Michelle
5 years agoPaul MI
5 years ago
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