I would suggest you get a soil test ASAP (logan labs in ohio will do it for $20 and you'll get the results in about 3 days via e-mail). It will save you chasing your tail if there are major soil problems. Generally: Apply a pre-emergent like Dimension to prevent weed seed (crabgrass) from germinating. This should be applied once the soil temperature gets to 55-60 degrees. A visual indicator is to watch for forsythia plants to bloom, then drop the pre-m. (if you are aerating, aerate prior to dropping a pre-m--aerate only if needed, just as you don't mow if it doesn't need it) Spot treat weeds with WBG or similar--you can do this from late spring through fall weather and temps permitting. Mow the lawn as needed at a height between 2 1/2-3", but mow often enough that you do not remove more than 1/3 of the blade. Apply 1/2-1# per 1000 sq. ft of a slow release nitrogen fertilizer ( you could use a triple NPK) between the last week of May and the first week of June. As summer heat begins to set in (end of June-beginning of July), raise the mower to 3 1/2 to 4". Late August/early September, apply 1# of N per k of slow release N. Early Sept (once temps drop form summer like) set mower height to 2 1/2-3" Aerate if needed Sept-October--but early enough that the grass is still growing and repair itself.) Overseed late august to September. Some overseed after aeration. Early October, apply another 1# of slow release N with K (called winterizer by some). Once the turf ceases top-growth, drop mower height to 2-2 1/2" for a final mow and apply 1# of quick release N- Usually mid Nov-early Dec. (also called winterizing). You can substitute organic sources for any or all N apps except the final fast release N app. Apply any other amendments during the year as recommended per soil test.

40 degrees or 40%? I don't know of any 4 stroke lawn mowers that are rated for slopes of 40 degrees. Oil starvation.

As a former kid, I can assure you that kids can climb just about anything. You need to decide: how large at maturity do you have room for: how long do you want to wait for it to reach maturity (could be decades) how much do you want to spend deciduous or not do you need to plan for overhead wires, or underground pipes how much sun does the planting area get what kind of soil do you have (sandy, down in 609 country, or rich loam, out in farm country, clay, etc.) Those may seem to be petty questions, but a tree can be a sizable investment of money, time, and care, and you should have some idea of the answers before you hit the nearest nursery. When you've considered some of those things, head over to the Trees forum and ask those amazing experts for some recommendations - you'll get good ones. ps congratulations on the house! This post was edited by lisanti07028 on Mon, Sep 8, 14 at 15:40

Elizabeth, it will be okay. I'm a Realtor and have sold many foreclosures. It is more difficult when you are the buyer purchasing a property that hasn't been well maintained. Most foreclosures are the opposite of well maintained IME. But you can do this. Even if you make a misstep or two, it is easy to correct. The main thing is to have a plan. Are the systems of the house in working order? I mean things like roof, HVAC, electrical and plumbing? Is the floor serviceable for now? These are the important things on Day 1 of move in. The design part takes time and planning. Don't rush. That's where mistakes are made. When you are looking at a (presumably) vacant house, it shows smaller than when you actually begin to furnish it. It is best to live in the house first so you can see what works and what doesn't work from a planning perspective. I know it is more convenient to change things before you move in, but again, that is when errors are prone to happen. The best thing you can do as step one is to make any necessary repairs to the house, clean to the bone every surface and then move in and begin the planning stages to make this home your own.