Large Pergola leaning, how can I best support?
I inherited a large covered pergola with a significant lean. It provides necessary privacy from the two-story neighbour. I'm wondering how I can best correct the lean and support the whole thing. The 6x6 in bottom pic shows how far it's leaning.
Comments (21)
User
3 years ago
PROHALLETT & Co.
3 years agoRelated Discussions
A _really_ large pergola....
Comments (17)woodyoak - He's going to build me a 50 foot arbor and gazebo next year. So far he's built me a kids playhouse/future toolshed. He is an amateur woodworker and this was the first thing he ever built. He bought a table saw for this so he could get straight cuts, and a router to soften the edges. That and a skill saw were the only tools he used. I designed it and he built it. He just got a bunch of books from the library on woodworking, then went at it! He is a good reader and doer. (did a first stone wall, ceramic tile, etc. after just reading a book on it.) I know I'm lucky!...See Morehfgh or diy lean-to gh for best overwintering?
Comments (8)A few thoughts; the Harbor Freight 4mm twinwall polycarbonate panels (made in China) are lower quality than twinwall polycarbonate you would buy from a greenhouse supplier. They don't seem to have UV protection. I have a HFGH 10x12 and my panels last 3-4 years here in the sunny south before they deteriorate (I am replacing them.) Most twinwall poly from greenhouse supply places has an approximate 10 year warranty and one side is treated for UV protection. Single pane glass will lose the heat much more quickly on cold nights than twinwall poly, so you might save on panel cost, but you might also then be having to pay more to heat your greenhouse. This heating calculator might be helpful in comparing the performance of different greenhouse materials: Heat Loss Calculator For my two cents, I'm wondering how much you can depend on adequate heat being gained into the greenhouse through your house exterior wall, but others will probably have better insight on that question. The idea of storing water in black barrels for heat mass gets mixed reviews in this forum; many folks say that it's not effective, especially in small greenhouses, where space is better used for plants. I've read that the heat stored in the water can help raise the greenhouse temperature for a while, but by the critical coldest hours before dawn, the heat benefit has been lost. You might seek out archived threads on this topic (just giving you a heads up.) I have not purchased the HF vent openers, but I recall that past posts here have not been very positive about the quality. My guess is your idea of spending more to buy better ones might be a wiser move. From a cosmetic point of view, I'd think your carpentry skills would allow you to build an attached structure that would look more like an actual improvement to the house than attaching the HF structure. It would allow you to install a more traditional door, too. My Harbor Freight sliding doors work OK for my purposes, but if you'll scan the archives here, you'll find that some folks don't like them in winter weather (the tracks can fill with ice and freeze shut if conditions are right.) This has only happened once to me during a record winter storm, but I live in a warm climate....See MoreLarge diameter plant supports/rings
Comments (10)I had cut down the outer branches, but just not to the base. Maybe IÂll try that tactic this year. It does branch out with frightening enthusiasm. Maybe it would not do that cut at the base? Since they are hollow stemmed I was thinking (donÂt know if this would be true or not) that water would run down and rot the plant from inside below ground. Probably an unnecessary concern. I may try rooting some: I could use another of this plant as a screen in one spot. I couldnÂt kill the mother though! IÂm too soft-hearted for that. There would be many horrified glares around the kitchen table if I tried as well. Thanks for your timely input about the GardenerÂs supply stakes! I was just considering those linking stakes! But they are out of the straight ones and only have the curved ones. Plus I would need 2 sets of horizontal wires. I was considering also the flat mesh-like wire panel: getting 2 and wiring them together into a "V" shape. I had never thought of using more than 1 set of ring supports. That would mean though that at least one wire leg would have to go down into the center of the plant. It is very woody and I donÂt think we could get one in. They do have a number of really nice things: the tall narrower sets of rings look just right for my dahlias. I was also looking at the one with the flexible arms for my lilies! Thanks for telling me that doesnÂt work either. I was wondering if the plants would just fall back out. More and more I am thinking of using several trellises: like the round top kind you can get easily at the big box stores. I could set them up, 3 or 4, then connect them at the sides with black plastic tie-wraps. But they would need to be shorter than the trellises generally are: I donÂt want them looming over the top of the plant. Now I wonder who has trellises 3 or so feet tall? I didnÂt see any at GardenerÂs Supply. Donna, since you seem to have used many of these GardenerÂs Supply supports, what types would you recommend for: Floppy asters? Floppy liatris? I bought a bunch of single stem stakes for lilies, hoping that will do the trick. The asters have managed to topple everything IÂve tried, even with cutting the front part back hard to bush it out and support the taller back. IÂm thinking of the flat mesh-like wire panel for those. They only flop one way, forward....See MoreHow can I incorporate a support post in my kitchen layout?
Comments (14)"... Should we push the exterior wall back even further so there's still room for an island & walkway?..." If budget allows - that's what I would do. Here's what you could do if you can push the external wall out to be flush with the FR wall on the right (not counting the bay). I think it opens up the Kitchen more and gives it a more spacious feel. Note that I flanked a 48" window with cabinets. If you would like a bigger window, consider eliminating the 15" on the left (or merging 12" of it into the easy reach in the corner) and shortening the 51" to 48" or 45". You might even consider a bumpout in front of the window - say 6" to 9" - to give you more room behind the sink. It depends on what's outside the window - you don't want to put a bumpout where someone might run into it. I put in 3" deeper counters along the range wall. You now have a real pantry - much less expensive than one pantry cabinet, let alone two! It's also much better/efficient storage. The pantry is 81" wide with 12" deep shelves on three walls and two 24" swing out doors to give you 48" of doorway space when needed (e.g., when putting away groceries.) I enlarged the doorway to the Powder & Laundry Rooms to 36". When carrying baskets to/from the Laundry Room, I think you will appreciate 36" instead of the 31" there right now. The Family Room entrance is almost 12' wide. But, to support the span, I added walls on each end of the opening. The table will fit in the space. I put in a 42" wide table, that's DR sized, so if you have a narrower table (39") for the space, there will be more space than I show. The aisle b/w the table and the island is 60" - that's the minimum I'd do with seating on each side of the aisle. The refrigerator is on the range wall so it's easily accessed from the Kitchen w/o having to cross a potentially busy aisle to/from the Garage. It's also on the periphery so it's someone from the DR, table space, or FR an get to it without crossing into the primary work area of the Kitchen. The refrigerator is a standard depth (36") and is recessed into the wall behind it a couple of inches. With the 3" deeper counters and recessing a couple of inches, that's 5". The refrigerator now looks counter-depth, but it's a less expensive and larger size. The island is much bigger to encompass the post. To add symmetry, I added a post on the other other end as well. With the additional size, you now have extra storage for seldom used items in 12" deep cabinets under the seating overhang. The island provides 53" of prep space. The trash pullout is located in the primary Prep Zone (island) but is close to the secondary Prep Zone, the Cooking Zone, and the Cleanup Zone. (You generate far more trash & recyclables while prepping & cooking than you do when cleaning up - and for a longer period of time. So, it makes sense to put it in the Prep Zone.) OK...here it is! . Layout #1: Layout #1 - Zone Map:...See More
PROBeth H. :
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agopressure treated posts,
they will last longer if you do cement footings and then mount the posts on those (as opposed to just sinking the wood post in the ground :
https://www.decksgo.com/pergola-footings.htmlplenty of info online.
obviously you'd have to support the pergola w/some temp posts while you set the new ones.
look at 'how to build a pergola'. would be easy to start from the beginning. then you can use what you have once the foundation base is done
James Oleksuik
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
PROBeverlyFLADeziner
3 years agoJames Oleksuik
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoThe original posts are not in good shape. They are two 2x4s plus one 2x6 nailed together and have some base rot and cracks forming. There's already a header beam (2x8) on the back fence that the roof's 4x4s are nailed into. Beth H. are you suggesting created an additional one before the fence or putting it on top of the fence.
- PRO
Beth H. :
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agono, as long you have one that is properly supported, it should be fine.
were you considering a 6x6? You could do a 4x6,,like shown here
what do you think about doing all 4 corners instead of just the front? doing the back corners will take off some of the load on that rear header and give you extra support. I think your lean will be eradicated if you do the back corners, and do a larger post in all the front spots. (with proper lateral/diagonal support in those front posts)
at the very least, do this on the corner posts.
Then just do the two other corners, and one or two middle posts. Obviously you'll need to support it while you pour the other footings. if a current post is in the way of the new footing, you'll have to move it and make sure it's supported.does this make sense? and of course there are the proper joist hangers/brackets for the roof portion?
James Oleksuik
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoThanks Beth H.
How close to the fence would the back posts be? Would they sit directly under the 4x4 crossbeam (horizontal part of the A frame) or further back, closer to the fence?
pricklypearcactus
3 years ago- PRO
Beth H. :
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoJames, just showed my husband (he's a contractor and has built these) and asked about your front posts. he says as long as there is no dry rot, you can reuse those.
concrete pier block at home depot. we used these on ours. pretty simple. you don't have to pour a concrete footing. you set these in the soil and put the posts on them.
do a temp support (purple line) cut off the bottom of post, put those cement footings at the proper depth . set the old post into the bracket. . he says it will save you money and they're sufficient. (of course if you want to do new posts, you can also do that. it's just less work leaving the old ones)for the back portion, he said go close to the back wall w/the support. you could do one on each corner. if you're still getting lean, then every 12' w/a new post. (and those can be a 4x4)
after it's all done, consider painting it with a good exterior paint , or a good stain. it will give your wood a longer life and look better James Oleksuik
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago- PRO
Beth H. :
3 years agoalso,,,this should correct the lean.
instead of putting the post under the top beam, put it next to it and use a through lag bolt all the way to other side to attach the vertical post up w/the roof joist.Then come in with your angled support and attach those.
the angled support would be like this one, except this is a 45. yours would be a 30 degree or whatever that distance is.
then you could do posts along the back wall w/the angled support at whatever span apart you think you need them.
make sense? James Oleksuik
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago- PRO
Beth H. :
3 years ago James Oleksuik
3 years ago
PROYardvaark
3 years ago- PRO
Beth H. :
3 years ago - PRO
Yardvaark
3 years ago - PRO
Beth H. :
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
Beth H. :