Weeping Norway Spruce: Need Help Training, Currently Too Short
Matt
3 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
3 years agoartemis_ma
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Norway Spruce Screen Planting Distance
Comments (22)gnomeabram: This issue of lower branch retention interests me, and it may be complex and depend on a number of factors. Generally, any NS branch that gets half, or maybe even a third of a day's sun should not die. And, in a dense stand of hardwood trees, the most dense shade producing maples or beech perhaps excepted, a NS tree should retain most of its lower branches for many years, although the foliage will be thinner, depending on the amount of light they receive, among other factors. I have a good number of NS trees growing among hardwood trees, and they all have their lower branches intact. But, eventually, as these trees growing in a hardwood stand age, they will lose their lower branches, but it will take 40 or more years for this to happen. Factors that could affect the loss of lower branches could include genetic strain of NS and the fertility of the soil. I don't have very much specific information about the need for magnesium, but I suspect that those areas where NS doesn't grow as well as others, there could be a magnesium deficiency. I read one study that said that for the best NS growth, there should be 75 kg of magnesium per hectare. I am just guessing about the specific effects of any magnesium deficiency, but when I have any doubts, I add some high mag lime around my NS trees. I am sure there could be other fertility issues, but this one may affect trees that are in otherwise fertile soil where one might not suspect any deficiency. But I do think your idea about having wider spacing giving more opportunity for sunlight to reach the lower branches is correct--you could draw out the shapes of the trees and see geometrically how this could work. In addition, the wider spacing would avoid so many dead branches appearing between the closely spaced trees. Moissy: Having the NS trees close together will, if anything cause them to grow taller. If they become really overcrowded, height growth, and the overall health of the trees will be reduced. But this is unlikely to happen with a double row planted as a screen where there will always be good light on at least one side. But, individual NS trees will grow at different rates. Earlier I talked about how I love the variety in any planting of NS trees--well, a part of that variation from tree to tree is a variation in growth rates. Any screen that is planted with the trees fairly close, such as 8 X 8, will have some trees very much outgrown and eventually overtopped by others. Those trees outgrown by their neighbors will have their growth rates reduced even more by the crowding and eventual overtopping. In my own screen, as I see some trees growing more weakly than others, I will remove them, unless they have some especially attractive foliage or weeping habit. If I see things like those, I may thin out a faster growing tree to favor a more beautifully growing one. The main reason I planted 8 X 8 is to have extra trees and more chances to get some really outstanding ones. I dont see the issue of having to thin them out later as any problem. Work like that can be done just one tree at a time, and if at some point I canÂt do the work myself, I will hire some one to do it for me. Anyway, I canÂt live without a lot of exercise, so I relish it, and as need be, I pace myself. --Spruce...See MoreHelp me plan the future of an awkward Weeping Norway Spruce
Comments (14)Ken-adrian it is not telephone-poled. The leader is only slightly flexible, and bending up a bit could keep it from dragging the ground. it It has just been planted after 3 years in a pot. Hurricanes were an issue in it’s beachside home in CT. Not a worry now. The owners are sentimental about it, it must stay. This is the only logical spot in the small yard with enough sun. My suggested location, not the client’s. I just want to make the best of it. And NOOO I dont want to move it! If I dont have to. It is heavy! I just want to be clear on my options for pruning & training it. 20 year window is all I am concerned with. Your 30 year tree gives me some insight. Any idea on it’s current width? Johnfuda has me concerned, but I am under the impression this is a tree that you can somewhat control the size of with selective pruning or train it as it grows along. Could yearly spading/root pruning keep it from upheaving the patio? I thought spruce were very slow growing, especially if they are not in their native setting. and before planting, roots were circling! I am guessing it is a picea abies ‘pendula’ too. But all pruning/training info I find seems to reference that tree’s first 3 years. This tree is older than that. I am intrigued by the 2nd leader suggestion. I know how to do that on other evergreens. As for letting them battle it out for space with the underplantings— well, in a tiny city garden every inch is precious. I only want to sacrifice the area if doing otherwise will create a stupid looking evergreen....See MoreWeepy norway spruce fertilizer shock help
Comments (6)Trees don't die from a "normal" fertilizer application! Provided you didn't apply 10 times the number of spikes suggested, that wasn't the cause of your tree's distress and it would be unlikely for it to happen so rapidly even if it was. Re: fertilizer 'spikes'.......next to spraying the foliage, about the most ineffective method of fertilizing to come down the pike! Convenient for the gardener but of minimal benefit to the plant being fertilized. Trees access soil nutrients via a web of fine feeder roots located just under the soil surface. But these spread out over a wide distance from the base of the tree in a roughly circular pattern. Concentrating a delivery of nutrients via a fertilizer spike in just 2 or 3 locations means 95% of these feeder roots are not able to access and most of the product will go to waste. You don't need to throw the spikes out.....just grind or break them into a coarse powder and apply as you would a typical granular fert, on the soil surface around the dripline and water into the soil. Just as with any other plant, if the necessary soil nutrients are not available, a tree will benefit from a fertilizer application. But most plants in reasonably fertile soil will not require much and trees generally demand less, just by virtue of that big, spreading root system. If a tree's performance is poor, with slow or stunted growth and an off color, then get a soil test first to determine what nutrients are lacking and then address that need....See Moreleader Norway spruce
Comments (14)here is an update, his tiny buds on his original leader have begun to grow so I pinched one off and hopefully it will continue to grow straight up and be the leader. Not sure that other one wants to give up being the take over leader. We shall see. I love this little guy, I think I need more of these. No need to mention his ugly dancing partner Jack as in jacked up fence post. When Norman gets as tall as Jack, Jack will set him free/...See MoreMatt
3 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
3 years agoMatt
3 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
3 years agoMatt
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoEmbothrium
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoDeanW45
3 years agoplantkiller_il_5
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoMatt
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoEmbothrium
3 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
3 years agoMatt
3 years agoEmbothrium
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoMatt
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agosteve duggins(Z6a) - Central Ohio
3 years agoplantkiller_il_5
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoMatt
3 years agoMatt
3 years agoplantkiller_il_5
3 years agoMatt
3 years agoMomothegardenhoe zone 5, Central NY
3 years agoMomothegardenhoe zone 5, Central NY
3 years agoMatt
3 years agoMatt
3 years agoplantkiller_il_5
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoMatt
3 years agoplantkiller_il_5
3 years agoMatt
3 years ago
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Momothegardenhoe zone 5, Central NY