Do you buy 1 rose per variety at a time, or multiples?
sbrklyn_7bny
3 years ago
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sbrklyn_7bny
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Planting multiple times per year in the same space/soil
Comments (13)Ditto to the above. There are several strategies that can be employed. Intercropping is one, where you have, for instance a leaf crop, a fruiting crop, and a root crop all growing together - for our purposes, lets say arugula, snap peas, and turnips for the early season. Of these, the arugula will be ready for harvest first, then the turnips, then the peas. You could time your planting so that everything is ready at the same time, making the entire bed ready for a new crop. Or, you could plant everything at the same time, meaning you would have a succession of harvests, perhaps overlapping slightly, of 3 different crops. Or, you could stagger your planting dates, so that you get a longer harvest, but less yield on a weekly basis. Each strategy has advantages, depending on your long term plans. For me, staggered plantings of the arugula and turnips make sense, because i want to eat them in a few meals every week, but because the peas will provide a continuous harvest over a longer period - because we're harvesting the fruit, and not the whole plant - I would put in that row all at the same time, and in another bed put in a second row a few weeks later, or establish a succession by planting a variety with a different maturation period. The arugula MAY provide multiple harvests, depending on your method, and will be available first. It is also least tolerant of heat, so will benefit from being shaded by the peas as the season progresses. Because it will see the most attention, I would plant it at the outside of my bed, where it is easiest to reach. The turnips, being root crops, will cause some disturbance when they are harvested, so I will make sure that they are not too closely spaced, to the other turnips, but also to the other crops in the bed. The peas will be comparatively tall when they are ready to harvest, so the shade that they produce will need to be accounted for in the layout of the bed - not only in terms of North-South-East-West, but if the row is in the middle, with other crops on either side, or on one edge, where the effect of shading is reduced. Assuming 70 days for the peas to mature, and perhaps 2 weeks of harvest, it's possible that you could have the entire bed emptied and ready to plant on 3 months, but that would mean a significant amount of space was being underutilized where the arugula and turnips were removed. You could choose to reseed those areas with your second crop, but it would be more time-efficient to transplant. In the interest of rotation, and taking into account the season, you might put in cucumbers, to climb the trellis soon to be vacated by the peas, or eggplant, or squash. Broccoli would work, but it's a heavy feeder, and it's related to turnips, so less ideal. Greens could work, but you're getting into the warmest part of the season, so kale would be a better choice than spinach. And ideally you want whatever you plant to be ripe and ready in time to get a third crop into the ground - and ripe - before winter sets in, so maturity dates become even more important as you do your planning later in the season. Otherwise, you'll get to the end of the growing season, and unless you have some kind of season-extension tactics, the only thing able to grow to maturity in your garden will be 25-day radishes, and really, how many of those do you want to eat? Another consideration is how you will deal with the harvest. If you are growing only to have fresh vegetables for the length of the growing season, successions are the way to go. But if you want to freeze pesto or can tomato sauce or make pickles, you want a large harvest all at once so that you can efficiently process your produce. Personally, I don't want to be stuck in a hot kitchen on August, so I schedule some of my plantings so that the canning can take place, as much as possible, in the cooler months, and the foods that can be enjoyed raw are coming ripe in summer. That means not only making choices about crops, but about varieties - slicing tomatoes to ripen early, but plum tomatoes in September, or Hakuri turnips to eat in summer, and purple-tops, which taste better cooked, for fall. As you can see, the process of multiple cropping is wonderfully complex. This is just one example, with only a few crops, and doesn't fully incorporate the varying needs of water, nutrients, and sunlight that a detailed plan should include. Short maturity crops like radishes and salad greens can often simply be tucked in wherever space and time allow without much planning, and having seedlings always on hand to transplant will provide you with a denser harvest schedule, but a successful plan for multiple harvests is a multi-dimensional puzzle, involving space, time, species, cultural requirements, season, and use. Personally, I enjoy the complexity, it's like a game of chess, or planning a perfect heist, but for some people it can seem daunting. It is probably best, in the beginning, to follow one simple rule - plant something every week, and when you harvest one crop, renew the soil (I add lots of compost, and nothing more) and plant again. Lastly (for now), although you are growing in the same space, it is never the same soil. It is important to renew the soil regularly, to replace all of the nutrients that multiple cropping removes. Lots of compost, and fertilizer when needed, will go a long way towards providing a good succession....See MoreWhen it the best time to buy cheap/good roses from mega-stores?
Comments (23)Louis, if you do not own the home you live in, I would recommend keeping them in large pots so you can easily move them with you. Just a thought. We are only trying to help you avoid wasting your hard earned money on a plant that could be disappointing, will die, or worse yet, infect your other roses. The Own-Root question: "Body bag" roses are generally roses that are grafted onto the root stock of a faster growing rose. This makes them grow faster in a shorter period of time. That's fine, unless the rose dies back and the root stock grows up instead. Then you are stuck with a very fast growing rootstock that will most likely disappoint you with climbing limbs and only one bloom in the spring. Own-root roses won't do that to you. That's just the tip of the iceberg--I am sure others can tell you their main reasons for own root preference. But some people don't really care much about own-root vs. grafted. I prefer own root, but it won't stop me from getting a grafted rose if the conditions are right. However, my 100-year-old house used to have a whole row of "Dr. Huey" (a common root stock) roses growing along the fence, and I guarantee you that at one time, every one of those Dr. Hueys was growing as something else. Trust me--we were all once newbies to roses. I used to buy the $5 plants in bags because it seemed economical at the time--but more often than not I was disappointed in the results and/or lost the rose. My husband always tells me that "We don't have the money to buy cheap s@!t." What he means is that when you buy junk, you have to keep spending money to replace the junk and eventually, you've spent a fortune on junk. But if you invest in a good, long-lasting product just once, you spend less money and have better results. I recommend that you invest a bit more money in fewer plants. That's just my two cents. Honestly, it sounds like you have a list of excuses to not listen to the advice. *shrugs* Think outside the box and consider other options rather than shooting them down. We're only trying to help....See MoreVarieties and cages -- multiple plants in one cage?
Comments (3)All I can relate is my personal experiences. I also have CRW cages but mine are 30-32" in diameter and I would never put more than one plant in any of my cages. I don't do any pruning except for the lower branches that might touch the ground and my cages are filled to over-flowing by 1 plant by mid season. NOw if you plan on doing extensive pruning, which kind of defeats the purpose of using CRW cages, then 'maybe' you could squeeze 2 AR Traveler in 1 cage and 2 Jet Star in 1 cage but it would still be a tight squeeze. Or better yet, plant them outside the cage with the cage in between them and use it to tie them off to for support. I have grown all the plants on your list except Sweet Baby Girl - know nothing about it. But all the others, single plant, assuming proper soil prep/amending and proper feeding through out the season will easily fill your 24" cages. Do you have access to any big containers that you could use for the extra plants? Or even though you have the cages consider using Florida weave in one of the beds instead of cages. That would allow you to work 2-3 extra plants into the same space. JMO Dave...See MoreOverseeed multiple times?
Comments (2)If you were going to do this "right," you would have waited until fall to do the seeding. And you would have waited until Memorial Day to fertilize. And you would have waited until after you had a good soil test to apply calcium, because the soil test would have told you whether you needed it at all and it would have told you how much to apply and it would have told you which of the two kinds of calcium to apply. And if you were doing this right you would not have applied top soil as a top dressing - now those areas will be permanently higher than the rest of the lawn which can cause them to dry out faster. But all that is water under the bridge. Let's look forward. Your watering system is good but slightly off on timing. If you are trying to get new seed to sprout, you can reduce the time to 5 minutes, but keep it at 3x per day. The 20 minutes will give you soggy soil. All it needs to be is moist enough to sprout the seeds. Soggy soil for weeks can create a swamp culture of biology in your soil. When that happens you get weeds like nutgrass and other sedge plants that can be hard to get rid of. What you want is the normal prairie type biology in the soil. That requires a little moisture and a lot of air. Once your grass is completely sprouted (80% sprouted) you can start to back off on watering frequency. Eventually you will have it set to water once per week if your temps get into the 90s. With temps in the 80s you should be deep watering (1 full inch all at one time) every other week. You can time how long it takes your system to deliver 1 inch by setting out cat food or tuna cans in the yard. Turn on the sprinkler and time how long it takes to fill the cans. That will be your watering time from now on until you change something in your sprinkler system. Different sprinkler heads or different lengths or diameter of hose will give you a different time. Even kinks in the hose affect the time. The problem with seeding this time of year is the crabgrass seed is waiting to get water 3x per day for 20 minutes per time. Crabgrass is an opportunistic plant that thrives in full sun summer conditions. It spreads faster than other plants, leaves a lot of seed behind, and then dies with the first frost. When you seed in the spring the likely outcome will be a nearly full crabgrass lawn by mid July. But don't get discouraged. In the fall, which is late August for you, you can kill off the crabgrass and reseed with the appropriate seed for your situation. Having crabgrass for one season is definitely not the end of the world. There are benefits to having roots in the ground no matter how noxious the weed. Next year you can have a really nice lawn, so you should not need to wait 2 years, unless you were counting next year as a full year. Next spring (April) it should be pretty nice. Other thoughts: Don't apply top soil as a top dressing for anything unless you have poor drainage or low spots you need to raise up. Mechanical aeration is the old way to soften soil. Besides the fact that it doesn't work, it has been replaced with a couple applications of a surfactant like shampoo. Any clear shampoo, sprayed at a rate of 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet, once, twice, or three times at 2-week intervals, will do much more to soften your soil than aeration ever will. Total cost for you might be a few dollars if you buy your shampoo at the dollar store. You definitely don't need fancy shampoo to spray on your lawn. Just get any clear shampoo like baby shampoo. Before you apply any more calcium, get a soil test from Logan Labs in Ohio and post the results here on this forum. Scan through this forum to see what kind of suggestions you get from morpheusepa. Birds are generally a good thing in the garden. They eat damaging pests and leave behind one of the best organic fertilizers you can get. Some birds will eat your grass seed, but they can't eat enough to do you much harm. Think positively with birds. The right time in your area to fertilize is late May. Since you already fertilized your grass will end up being stressed. It will struggle through the summer if you don't fertilize again. I would start using organic fertilizer to help relieve that stress from all sides. With chemical fertilizer you're always asking if I can apply again in 6 weeks or whatever. With organic fertilizer, you can reapply later that same day, the next day, next week, next month, and/or never (not recommended), but you cannot over apply (unless you smother the grass with 1/2-inch of fertilizer). So you never have to worry about that issue. And there is no interaction between chemical and organic fertilizers so you can apply chemical and organic the same day. With your grass you should be mowing at or near the mower's highest setting. When your new seed gets up to 4 inches, you can mow. That may or may not be 6 weeks. For your area in the front where the new grass is struggling, is shade an issue there?...See Morerosecanadian
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