Climbing roses for fence
Tina_Dallas
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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callirhoe123
3 years agoRelated Discussions
New Zealand rose adventures
Comments (10)Well, all right. I'll pick out some of the rosey ones. This was taken at Kauri Creek Nursery, Joanne and Norman Knight's place. This bed holds their Alister Clark rose collection. BTW, the SJHRG also has a very good collection of this breeder's roses, specifically developed for warm climates. This picture shows a central bed of the recently restored heritage rose garden at the Christchurch Botanic Gardens. And here is a picture of the modern rose garden, also in the Christchurch Gardens. Here are roses growing in the cemetery in Queenstown. And finally a gorgeous tea-noisette (I think) growing in Te Anau, just a few blocks away from the spot where I first fell in love with Old Port five years ago. I would love to know the identity of this rose. If it is as I fear Reve d'Or, I think I'm going to hang up my Felco's, because mine looks nothing like this gorgeous thing. And close up Rosefolly...See MoreClimbing old roses with fenced veg garden - need help designing
Comments (20)Hi Carol, I can understand how the idea of building permits ever got started--protection of the public!--and the real needs for that in housing and other buildings. But if it gets applied to pergolas, it seems unrelated to public safety. How much do they charge someone for building a pergola? Perhaps the charge is so low that it's a mere nuisance? The main argument for a pergola is that it's very inviting and attractive the year around. I have seen pictures of posts with chain swags in a famous Paris public garden and the roses look fantastic there. As best I can recall, the posts were large pillars and fairly tall, though I cannot find a picture now. The rub would be what it would look like in the winter and early spring if you're not building large (wide) pillars, but are using wooden posts. If you are headed toward a circle of posts, a circle of tepees might look better when uncovered in the winter and early spring. Our first fence was professionally installed and the fence-builder's suggestion was that posts set into a gravel footing hole would work fine. Anything set up as our do-it-yourself building books suggested, with the posts in concrete, would have been noticeably more money so we went for what we could afford at the time, and that was already plenty expensive. That method did work reasonably well, although not quite totally solidly if you pushed against a post. After about 20-25 years the posts had rotted in the ground, though, and my husband had to do the fence posts over again. At one time, our fencing on two sides held thin "farm" wire mesh fencing (6 feet high) and I loved the looks of it, because beyond the fence were beautiful woodsy areas I liked to be able to see and the fencing didn't detract or distract from that view. I think the sections were about 8' each, as you are considering for yours. I'm no expert at all on rabbits, but I wonder whether a fence that is only 3' high would be tall enough. I think, though I'm not positive as to the exact route the rabbit took, that a rabbit here has jumped up to some landscape timbers that were 3' or higher off the ground (to trim way back our Julia Child roses for us). Rabbits love roses. The best way to make sure you have no deer problems is to prevent deer from finding your roses and vegetables in the first place. I'd suggest that you not wait to see what happens, because once hungry deer have a memory of getting food at a certain place, it's much, much more difficult to ever keep them out. There's a book that discusses keeping out deer that's well worth reading now (right now, to help you plan). Your local library ought to have it, but if not, it's relatively inexpensive to buy from Amazon: "Deerproofing Your Yard & Garden" by Rhonda Massingham Hart. Deer aren't kept out by rose hedges, not if jumping them is to a spot they are already familiar with, such as would be the case for them while the roses were growing up. They don't jump into areas they can't see or are unfamiliar with, though. Deer will eat roses, all roses, even very thorny ones, if they are hungry enough. That tends to occur in winter and early spring during some years, but not all. (After a famine, generally caused by more breeding than the land's vegetation can support, the deer don't reproduce well, so the deer population pressure on the land lowers for a few years then; that cycle can mislead you into thinking that you've solved the deer access problem when you haven't.) Your gorgeous front gate with an arch will be wonderful, and so inviting. I've seen many pictures of that being done, and don't think I've ever seen one that looked less than wonderful! Best of luck! Mary Here is a link that might be useful: Phillip Oliver's pictures offer lots of landscaping ideas...See MoreHelp me choose a climbing rose
Comments (12)Personally, you have an awful lot of PINK - which I love. However, some white would make those pink lovelies strut their stuff a little - and then maybe a yellow blend - and you'd be in rose heaven on the climbers. For white, Lamarque is a healthy noisette. I don't grow, but that's the word and the heritage. I do grow Alister Stella Grey (sp?) and this one is a delightful cream with early lemon accents in the Noisette family. Or, if you want profusion - try Prosperity! What a healthy heifer. She's all white and never says no to cluster blooming from head to toe all summer long. Golden showers is a full bloom healthy yellow climber. Or if you stick to the glamour of the antique style, crepuscle will line you up with a yellow / apricot bloom. It's a noisette as well. You should have fun with all the possibilities. Let us know what you go with....See MoreNew Dawn Climbing Roses along a fence?
Comments (34)I have become convinced that ND is not suitable for an arbour unless you combine it with a swag and then diligently train the canes onto the swag. In late July we will be cutting our ND back completely, to the top of the arbour and starting over, swagging every cane of a suitable size from the begining. The consensus of rose folks seems to be that ND will survive the treatment. We didn't start swagging our ND until there was already a thick accumulation of canes on the top of the arbour and dangerous tentacles reaching out everywhere - those thorns are NASTY! Even with the swag, the volume on top of the arbour has grown, because it's not easy to work with the stuff up there because of the thick tangle of older canes - not to mention at least three different clematises... I am concerned at this point that ND will bring down the arbour/south alley gate if we don't do something about it! So it's time to clear the slate an start again. My advice is only go for it if you've got an appropriate set-up to control it and are willing to be diligent in controlling it (which we weren't for the first few years, and then it was too late...) Given our experience I really think the appropriate place for ND is trained along a relatively low fence (4' or so); tie it in to the fence as if the fence was a swag. A low fence would make it easy to work with it - as opposed to needing a stepladder in the case of an arbour. Good luck....See MoreTina_Dallas
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