We have evaluated the some of the benefits and construction issues of the pipe proposal. Now I would suggest advertaddy investigate the possibility of surface drainage. Some reasonably accurate elevation data will be needed to prove the viability. To do what I propose, he will need some materials; a few 2ft stakes, a nylon string line, and a string level. A string level is not a precision instrument and I am not fond of their use where accuracy is needed. But for short distances, and for this case particularly, I think the careful use of a string level will be sufficient. Rather than collect useful data over the whole of the project area, this preliminary study will be concentrated on only the critical grade points. In the graphic above I show the location of a string line that can be used to gather the information needed. Begin at point C by locating a space between fence boards that aligns with the back 6 inches of the patio. At the space between boards drive a wood screw about 1ft above ground level. Tie on a string line and stretch it out toward point B. Select a location for a stake at point "B such that the string passes over the patio near the back edge and also aligns with the jog in the house as shown. Attach the string level at the mid point between B and C. Stretch the string tight and tie to stake B with a loop. Adjust the string height at stake B so that the string level indicates the string is level. Install stakes at A and D. Extend string lines to the end stakes in a like manner with all lines at the same level. Measure the horizontal distance for each line segment. Begin at stake A. Measure the ground to string distance. Move 5 ft down the line toward B and take another measurement. Continue this process until you are near B. Begin anew at B and start the 5 ft intervals from there. Do the same at C and make a last measurement at D Record the measurements in this fashion A-? +5-? +10-? B-? +5 -? +10 -? +15 -? To correct the details of the base map, take measurements as shown in blue.

Well, fact is that that water has been draining there for almost a year now, with no apparent EROSION effects. Prior to that, with no gutters, the ran jusr free dripped into that area, and with the house now 8+ years old, I don't think there are any soild drainage issues. The problem is I have no real options to pipe the rain away from the pad, and my concern is water/frost heaving under the pavers. I think I am going to elbow the downspouts to dump in the driveway on the end. I think there is enough of a slope there to carry the water away. Any suggestions on how to resolve this? Long length of perf pipe under the base of the pad? I can post a pic of the area if that would help...

solaris: My own house is of the same vintage with the same sort of foundation. It would have been pretty much unheard of for builders in 1810 to design a cellar without a gravity drain to allow water to exit from the cellar's interior. After all, there were no sump pumps or electricity available and they were well aware that water would penetrate the foundation. I would look carefully for some evidence of an entrance for such a drain on the downhill side of the foundation. It's possible that it was covered over when the cement floor was added, but this doesn't seem likely. More likely is that the drain has become clogged over time with silt, etc. It is sometimes possible to clear the drain, which was usually lined with rock, from the inside using a water jetting drain cleaner. Once an entrance is found, it's also possible to excavate a new drain from the outside and perhaps connect to a town's storm sewer system. With the ever present possibility of power outages, relying on a sump pump is not a recipe for peace of mind. By all means, do whatever is possible to divert water away from the house on the outside, but don't try wholesale excavation around the foundation. The real akey is to re-develop or create a means for the water to escape from the cellar on its own.

I would definitely, get two or three quotes, or more for the test to see if it's leaking, call the better business bureau, make sure the contractor has insurance, and ask to speak to some of there past customers. This is a politically correct approach, 99.9% of reputable contractors will gladly let you speak to some of there customers as references. You want to be sure that it's not leaking!, you don't want a contractor to pull it out and then surprise it was leaking and next thing you know you slammed with a whopping bill to clean it up. The sinking sidewalk, call a concrete raising company, or concrete leveling company, they pump under the concrete and it raises back up, then seal the seam along the foundation. A french drain would be good if you have a lot of water coming in, But the french drain needs to go along the wall. and if the sidewalk is next to the wall , well it would have to be dug up to place the french drain in. Concrete raising is economical, and works great!, Seal the seam along the foundation with a top quality concrete caulk, make sure the gutters work good, and the ground slopes away from the home. This should solve the water problem. Additionally, if the concrete in the basement is not painted, you can get a product called RADON SEAL, it sprays on like water, using a regular hand held garden sprayer. Seal and cracks with hydraulic cement, use a cold chisel to open the cracks up a bit so the hydraulic cement has a good gap to fill about an inch. let that dry according to the manufacturer, then spray the Radon Seal. This product is absolutely the best water sealing product you will find for concrete basements. Must be bare concrete (no paint). can be painted after or what ever. never comes off, Radon Seal creates a molecular bond with the concrete and actually changes the molecular density. http://www.Radonseal.com All the ideas you have sound good. Depending on the amount of water, I don't believe a french drain would be necessary, but installing one could never hurt. Like I said I would raise the concrete and slope it away from the home.