Problems with plastics (including dryer lint)
6 years ago
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Have You Checked Out Your Dryer Lint Filter & Vent? Check Out My
Comments (20)Been there, done that...lint is such a HUGE annoyance to my life. We're in a 2nd floor condo where the dryer vent ducting goes to the roof through the attic over 20 feet and several elbows. My husband bought the condo years before we met, and the ducting was clogged after several years. At the time, he decided to disconnect the vent from the duct. The resulting moisture did some damage to the cabinetry (swelling of the particle board, even under layers of oil-based paint). Soon after we married, he decided we needed to fix the problem correctly. He went up into the attic and disassembled the ducting, brought it outside, and blew it out with his air compressor. I pushed some cleaning tool through it as well. We can't be doing this regularly! I mean preferably, never again! So, I had him put a filter -- a gallon paint strainer -- over the dryer vent where it connects to the machine. This clogs every month or so, we pull the machine out, disconnect the vent, clean the strainer, and put it back. This is still an annoying chore, but not the nightmare of dealing with the whole duct run. My husband had a cool idea, that what we need to do is sew a new, longer strainer that tapers to a skinny point, so that even when it clogs at the point, there can still be air flowing past the clogged strainer, and we should be able to go longer between cleanings. We got a new dryer last summer, and pulled the ducting out of the attic to clean it -- but it was already clean as a whistle. So, our secondary filter system has kept the duct run clean for 9 years. I found you can buy secondary lint traps with a door that opens to clean them out, but we don't have room to install the box in our laundry room, and I don't think it would work any better or be easier to clean than our homemade filter. When I redo the floor, I plan to put magic slider thingies under the dryer feet to make it easier to move in and out, plus I won't want to gouge my new floor. I have researched other solutions. People claim that solid metal vent will maintain better airflow than pleated, but I think it will still clog because we need 2 90-degree elbows to get it connected to the duct in the wall. And if it clogs, how do we pull out the machine with a non-stretching vent? If we could move the duct in the wall to match the dryer vent outlet, that would eliminate 2 elbows and would probably help... I also found you can install a secondary fan in the ducting near the exit, increasing the airspeed in long ducts so the lint won't clog. They cost $150-200, but if I never had to clean out the duct run or pull out the dryer to clean my makeshift secondary lint trap ever again, it would be well worth it. I also think that our ducting is leaky somewhere, because rooms on the other side of the wall (our master bath) get crusted with lint all the time. Finding and sealing those leaks would probably improve airspeed some, plus save me tons of work cleaning the lint all the time. I think the additional fan is the way to go. In 2 other areas where we replaced an ineffective low-cfm cheap fan with a high-cfm good one, like the hood over our cooktop, it made an amazing difference, night and day. Here is a link that might be useful: example of dryer duct fan...See MorePost LG 2.3 CF WM3455HW 24" washer/dryer combo problems here:
Comments (4)Drain-height: Another "possible" issue, posted in a customer YouTube video (in this case, regarding the 3.6 CF LG combo washer/dryer), may be drain-hose height. The customer's dryer component of the machine stopped working, so he lowered his drainhose height to floor-level (to a bucket), which apparently resolved his problem. It's probably more likely that he merely has a defective pump, working at lower capacity, or not working at all (although, if it's not working, I don't know why he doesn't have problems during the wash cycle). According to the LG documentation for the 2.3 CF model, it indicates that the drain service can be no higher than 96" (which is pretty darned high). Note that there is no mention of a minimum drain height. (As I seem to recall, in comparison, I believe Miele recommends a drain height no higher than 36"). But since the customer's drain height shown in the YouTube video seems no higher than about 46", it's probably more than likely that this customer merely has a defective pump. Nevertheless, since we're still at the "cement board" stage of our laundry-area renovation, this prompted me to re-consider pulling off the cement board, and having a plumber re-route the supplies and drain to a lower height (it's currently at 46"). This also gives us the opportunity to hide the supply and drain from view, since this is an open-plan installation. LG 3.6 CF combo washer/dryer customer YouTube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EhzuzSk2Ok LG documentaion for the LG 2.3 CF model: WM3455HW 24" combo washer/dryer: http://www.lg.com/us/support-product/lg-WM3455HW# This post was edited by studio460 on Sun, Jun 2, 13 at 18:23...See MoreA/C failed - clogged with clothes dryer lint
Comments (16)Ok, I really do doubt that lint is the cause of the failures, unless the unit was really plugged up by the lint. Ask the diagnosing tech what the head pressure was when he thought the coils were plugged up, and what the outdoor ambient temp was, if he doesn't know then get another tech. Pressure and temperature measurements are the only way to properly diagnose refrigerant related problems, including plugged coils. I would suspect that the first compressor that burned out contaminated the sealed refrigeration system with acids. Here is what happens, when a sealed compressor motor burns out the internal windings overheat and burn off the varish, in the presence of refrigerant, oil, and heat very strong acids are formed. When the compressor gets changed out the acid eats away at the varnish that coats the motor windings of the new compressor. Back in the old days R-11 was used to flush a system out that had burned out a compressor to remove the acids. Today environmental laws prohibit that practice. Here is what should be done to prevent future burn-outs. A removeable suction filter dryer that is made just for system burnouts should be installed just before the compressor. The system should be allowed to run for week under normal use, then the tech comes back and changes the suction filter. A month later another change occurs, and at three months an acid test is done on the oil to assure that all acid has been removed. At this point if all the acid is gone either another suction filter is put on, or the pipe is spliced back together with flare fittings leaving the filter out entirely. Unless a proper burnout cleanup is made you will continue to be replacing compressors on a frequent basis. Most compressors can live 10 years or more if they are installed correctly in a system that is not contaminated with acids from previous burnouts....See MoreFisher and Paykel Top Load Dryer (DEGX1US) problem
Comments (51)There's no context as to where the latest piece you picture was positioned/found within the machine. However, it kinda looks like remnant of the cup on the right-side chassis panel's heat-input flume to which the drum bearing shaft mounts. Destroyed, with remainder of the destroyed bearing shaft attached....See More- 6 years ago
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