Do you like the slip-joint type tub and lavatory drains?
Denice Shuty
3 years ago
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Denice Shuty
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoRelated Discussions
How to connect concealed tub drain on slab?? X-post frm bathrooms
Comments (5)... methinks the seller is right. You have said you have NO access under the slab. Is it a slab on grade? Is it a slab in a condo, and you don't want to break apart your downstairs neighbor's bathroom ceiling? Is is something else? According to the diagram that comes with the tub, the P trap is under the slab. Although it's not shown in the illustration, it is nonetheless obvious to many people. You (or your plumber) need to figure out is where you'll place the P trap, under the slab, which kind of pipe to use (tubular chromed brass, copper DWV, ABS, PVC, etc) and which associated slip joint ("lock nut") to use, and how you'll vent this line if it's being built new or rebuilt in any way -- and all that is a Master Plumber subject, not a tub sales subject. My bet is that your plumber is not a Master Plumber, but a repair kind of guy who knows how to fix faucets and a whole lot more, too. There is nothing to gain by calling the tub people. There is almost no information provided in your diagrams posted above, in terms that would help us know how to advise you on how to connect the tub to the P trap. It does show the slip joint, "lock nut" which may be your key to getting the tub drain secure and watertight --- but only someone on site would know for sure. Now, with no access under the slab, your big Question is how to raise the tub just enough that you'll manage to turn that slip joint shown under the tub and then make that gap look imperceptible later. Remember that you may want to be able to unscrew it one day too. Note that it is wise to be able to test it too -- and with no access underneath, you may be unable to test for leaks. This may be do-able, or maybe not... I think posting a diagram showing the drain lines you have under your slab, including venting, will give the right information for plumbers to know if 1st of all you can hope to just tighten the slip joint shown. hth...See MorePVC or Copper Tub Drain assembly
Comments (8)I am trying to avoid the notching, but think I will only need to notch a very small amount if I can direct the waste line to the side of the tub versus toward the front. I have 1/2 subfloor original, plus another 5/8" on top of that before I get to the joist, so I am hoping just a bit will need to be notched. I am worried about the trap and overflow, which is why I was trying to find out whether the suggestion that "tom" mentioned is doable to make the overflow redirected to the side a bit to clear the joist and then connect to the waste line which will also be redirected per the picture????...See Morere-forming my question about bathtub drain
Comments (5)I think MAYBE the height needs to be adjusted so that it is lower--I'm not sure as I am only looking at the pictures in the install manual. Does the stopper itself just "force fit" or "snap" over the rod that the nut is on? What about taking a very small dab of 100% silicone caulk and sticking it up under the stopper & down to the rod to hold it in place? Just a dab ought to work and not make it a "permanent" hold so as someone can still pull the stopper out to clean it & stick it back down with another dab later on. If the stopper just sits down on top of the rod itself and doesn't "snap" or "slip fit" over the rod, here's what I would do: 1. Remove stopper and turn it upside down. 2. Buy another nut the same size as the one that is on the rod and super glue or affix it to bottom of stopper in EXACT center of underside of stopper. 3. Once the nut has dried & is stuck securely to underside of stopper, then I would just screw the stopper with the super-glued nut to the rod itself with just a turn or two to hold it in place. It might even take 2 or 3 nuts stacked/glued on top of each other to "build up" the nut so that it can make contact with the rod to screw down. Hope this helps.... Jeanie...See MoreInstalling new tub that's 2 inchs wider-what to do with drain?
Comments (9)Traps are made with both slip joints and solid glue in style. Code prohibits installing a slip joint type trap in a concealed location, therefore when installing a skirted tub we are required to use the glue in type unless there is a 12x12" service access panel either through an adjacent wall or up from underneath. In this instance the proper solution would be to cut out the existing trap, then install a new glue in trap. Traps are relatively cheap, and you should be able to purchase a new trap and a coupling for approximately the same price as a fernco coupling and you will have the job done correctly....See MoreDenice Shuty
3 years agoformulaross20
3 years agoDenny Shuty
3 years ago
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