For a jetted tub used as a shower, it has to have an integral tile flange. That allows the wall cladding to overhang and any water that hits the wall to not go behind your walls. There aren't that many in that size that are inexpensive. It will need a specialized drain, and, if you want to spend any time in the tub, a supplemental heater so the water doesn't cool off so fast. Since it's a tub/shower, the wall cladding will need to be redone to be waterproof into the tub. It's possible, if the build is recent, and it was done with the proper vapor barrier behind it, that only one row of the tile would need to be pulled in order to replace the tub. But, I wouldn't count on that. I'd count on having to replace all of the wall cladding in the alcove. That can be as cheap as a plastic surround for around $100 or cheap tile with the proper vapor barrier for probably $150 or so. The first is the easiest and the least chance of leaking. The second will read as more upscale, but you have to be sure your contractor understands about the vapor barrier and correct materials to use to tile this (NOT mastic.) And since you have that torn out, it would be foolish to try to keep your current control valves for the bath unless they are also very new. New safety standards are in place for anti scald mechanisms. So, you will need a new shower/bath faucet and valve. Then you will need the electrical line run from the panel to the location for the whirlpool pump and supplemental heater. That location is usually opposite the drain side of the tub. You will need to be able to site an access panel that is removable to be able to get to the electrical innards here. That can be from an adjacent room, or from a hidden panel on the tub itself. All in all, you might be able to get all of the needed materials for 2-3K if you shop the box stores carefully and find some bargains. The danger to that is that if you are inexperienced, you don't know if you're buying quality or crap. They sell both. And that's one reason that it would be simpler to let the pro pick the products after you tell him the features that you want. Then you've got to pay the contractor labor to install all of that. The electrician's price will depend on how difficult it will be to access the panel and run the wire to the location. For that, it's a really good thing you are on a crawlspace! That makes it cheaper for both the electrician and the plumber. On the whole, I'd expect your project to cost between 5-7K, depending on location, and if you have no DIY skills to bring to the table and have to hire professionals for the whole job. And be sure that you hire someone that is licensed and insured to be in your home, and will pull the proper permits to get the job inspected with your code office. Some handyman guy isn't licensed to do electrical of that nature, and while he might be able to do the demo and get the tub in place and glue on the plastic surround, it's unlikely that he'll have the right insurance to deal with a large job like that, and thus probably wont' want to pull permits and be inspected. They are usually limited to smaller jobs like simple fixture replacements like a faucet or light. Which this isn't. Just remember, you are doing a project that combines electricity and water. You really have to know what you're doing here! A small General Contractor should be able to do the complete job, and also carry the needed papers. And he should have no problem with the code guys coming in to inspect his work either. If he does, then he's not the right person for the job.

Newport Brass makes several models of wall mount tub fillers. This one is 8GPM, which is plenty, as far as I am concerned: Tub Filler I have a similar Newport Brass wall mount that puts out less volume, but is still adequate. Just be aware that, if the spout does not extend far enough into the tub that the water stream hits the bottom, you may get splashback onto the nearby bathroom wall with a spout that is only far enough over the tub edge that the stream hits the upper area of the inner wall of the tub. This is especially true for a high volume valve.

I'm convinced there are forces in the universe which have not yet been identified. For whatever reason, tubs seem to attract damage even when a builder goes to great lengths to prevent it. They get mysteriously damaged even when no trades are working in the bathroom--or even on the same end of a house. If you're thinking a future Twilight Zone episode....well, maybe. Minor damage can be repaired. Yours looks like a tub after destructive testing in a quality control lab on a day when the technician was especially ticked off. A replacement tub is certainly in order. Speaking of order--don't wait to ask them to replace it because tubs can be long lead time items.

So, I strongly suspect that the tub is not defective, but that the foam distorted the bottom of the tub enough to cause this problem. It's a known issue with expanding foam and will distort window and door frames, for example. I was reminded of this when I was installing my new front door and didn't have low-expanding "window and door" foam. Even though I was being careful not to overfill, I had to sawzall the foam out because it distorted the frame. You really want to avoid providing fixtures and such for this very reason. It gets really messy when something goes wrong with a customer provided fixture. Contractors want to work with things that they are familiar and with vendors with which they have a relationship. It's generally not the cost of the actual item but the labor of replacing it that's problematic. Regardless of it was the foam, or a bad tub, you are going to live with it. Nobody is willingly going to eat the cost of tub replacement - and you opened it up to finger pointing when you provided the tub.