The leaves will bend to the light, so i always put mine back pointing the same way towards the window after taking them to the sink for watering. How far away from the light source is the Phal? What sort of temperatures and humidity do you have? What is the plant potted in? Are there enough drainage holes at the base of the pot? I'm beginning to think that these so-called easy orchids are difficult everywhere and not just here. Current readings next to the Phals on a cold miserable day outside are Temp. 24.6C Humidity 62%.

gardnergal, that reddish tinge is not actually a sunburn, but is usually due to long term exposure to light in the upper reaches of correct light. Think of it as having a base tan, as opposed to an actual sunburn due to spending a day in the backyard with no sunscreen, which is what the OP is describing. I find that that reddish tinge is actually beneficial, since more light translates into healthier, more vigorous plants and more flowers. As for the blistering on the leaves, it could be cell collapse, but her other orchids remain unaffected. One must go with the assumption that the OP treats her orchids similarly. I would go with fungus, especially with the botrytis on the petals. In any case, watering with lukewarm water is the way to go. As for the frequency of watering... Ah, the difference here, gardnergal, is that it sounds as if your plants are either outside or in a greenhouse, where conditions are likely quite different than a windowsill (the "hosing them down" part). You probably have brighter light, as well. Growing orchids inside means that they are MUCH more prone to rots and molds, since there is less light and less air circulation. Watering orchids on a schedule does not work, especially if you compare winter and summer conditions. When it's warmer and there is more light, as in summer, plants dry out a lot faster. Whereas when days are shorter, cooler and not as bright, it takes longer for a plant to dry out. I prefer erring on the safe side, and only water my Phals when each plant needs it, i.e. when it's dry. This morning, I watered about a quarter of my Phals. The rest didn't need it, but I'll check them all tomorrow morning (with summer, I am watering a lot more often, many plants even daily). This in no way hurts the plants. All my leaves are nice and firm, and they flower regularly, and I no longer lose plants to root rot. (A quick note for the OP: I strongly believe in the necessity of supplemental lights, as Howard advises, and since adding lights, have had few problems blooming any of my Phals.) Julie

1. Don't fertilize til you're confident that they're healthy again. Fertilizing a plant when there's a problem just compounds the stress on it. 2. if a rot is fast, it's bacterial. Fungal rots are slower. 3. Mush is always bad, and can spread. You should always cut mush off by cutting into the healthy tissue nearby. If a whole leaf is mushy, take off the whole leaf. Dust the stem of the plant where the leaf was attached with cinnamon. 4. I always cut off yellow leaves, if for no other reason than that way I can tell if it's new yellow or the same old yesterday yellow. 5. Cinnamon is a good contact anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, (and dessicant) so it's beneficial to dust a cut or problem spot with it. 6. Your assertion in the title suggesting the new leaf somehow caused this is dead wrong. Getting a new leaf is not what caused this. Rots can move amazingly fast, and they can be started by sunburn, tho often sunburn just makes a dark or white spot on leaves. I've had all three from sunburn. I have no way of knowing whether sun is what caused this, but it's possible. Because rots can move so fast-- I've seen them destroy a plant in just a day or so. Because they move so fast, always act immediately when you see *any*-- even a speck. No way to be sure what caused this problem. There are always several causes that produce the same effects. Why diagnosis is difficult and time consuming. I would definitely repot. Phals respond positively to a repot with new growth for the next three months. Also, you get a good chance to find out what's going on with the roots. Be sure to repot into a pot only a little bigger than the roots. Use a light hand when repotting. If you are using bark as a medium, soak the plant pot and all in tepid water for about 20' before hand to soften the roots for less damage to them. This time of year, the angle of the sun changes, and places that didn't receive direct sun suddenly do. That can create burns on a plant. The only way of knowing if a place is too hot, is touching the leaves while the sun is on them-- if cool to barely warm, ok. If warm be cautious. If hot, they are definitely burning. Cool them quickly with cool water.

People are supposed to get their vitamins from their food; plants get theirs from the soil. Neither should depend on supplements. A plant should be able to live under local conditions. Fortunately, roses have lived all over the world all by themselves without soil ammendments, fertilzers, bone meal, phosphates, etc. Their mid-range Ph tells you they are more generalized than specialized. They won't survive in all environments, but in most, and some classes do better or worse here or there (see the discussion on killing Bourbons in Maryland in the Antique Roses forum). You should never add supplements until you have had your soil analized. 'Kill' is the important part of 'overkill.' If you have had your soil analized or the plant is showing specific symptoms of a nutrient failure, supplement that one thing. If the plant has been under stress or neglect, supplements are the equivalent of taking vitamins when you're ill. I Super-Thrive new plants and transplants and give them a good starter soil and I dig in an all-purpose organic fertilzer twice a year--plant feast days (feasting is an important part of balancing a diet; nature provides 'feasts' which we generally do not allow in our gardens). Otherwise, if a plant can't live off the local mother earth, s/he needs a new home.