New phal leaves lead to wilt & rot of old leaves?

16 years ago

Hello - After the expert advice on how to help my Vanda, I knew I had to come back here to ask about my Phals. I have several large phals (standard moth shape, white and white/pink). I have had these for 14+ months. I have had other phals previously with moderate to good success following just the most basic guidelines and procedures.

The phals I have a question about were purchased as mature plants, in bloom. Bloomed for several months, then went through trauma (stored in a garage for a while during a move). I repotted last year, they bounced back and produced MASSES of blooms this year. The growth has been tremendous. They have been in the same East/Southeast facing windows all summer. They have been watered normally.

Now, all of the sudden, I have two plants with new leaves coming out. But the oldest leaves on one plant went leathery, then yellow then mushy very quickly (within a week). I adjusted its position in the window, made sure it wasn't in a draft etc. I watered as normal. Mush has been arrested but leaves are fully yellowing now.

On the other plant with a two new leaves (more advanced in growth), literally within about 3 days; one large, mature leaf has become limp and watery and mushy and darkened over about 60% of the leaf. I lifted it and water dripped from it.

Is this bacteria or fungus? These plants are 10+ feet apart? Is it possible that sunburn from the autumn sun being lower in the sky caused this? Should I cut and sterilize the remaining healthy leaf portion? Why do you think this is happening to two seperate plants within a week or two? There has been no cross-contamination of tools or anything.

It is almost time for these to be re-potted - should I just go ahead and do that now? Should I fertilize or will it be too much for them right now? (I have been using Dynamite 13-13-13 for the past three fertilization cycles).

I can't believe I have kept these plants alive and happy for so long and now, all of the sudden, they seem to all be unhappy!!!!???

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

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Comments (3)

mehitabel
16 years ago
1. Don't fertilize til you're confident that they're healthy again. Fertilizing a plant when there's a problem just compounds the stress on it.

2. if a rot is fast, it's bacterial. Fungal rots are slower.

3. Mush is always bad, and can spread. You should always cut mush off by cutting into the healthy tissue nearby. If a whole leaf is mushy, take off the whole leaf. Dust the stem of the plant where the leaf was attached with cinnamon.

4. I always cut off yellow leaves, if for no other reason than that way I can tell if it's new yellow or the same old yesterday yellow.

5. Cinnamon is a good contact anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, (and dessicant) so it's beneficial to dust a cut or problem spot with it.

6. Your assertion in the title suggesting the new leaf somehow caused this is dead wrong. Getting a new leaf is not what caused this.

Rots can move amazingly fast, and they can be started by sunburn, tho often sunburn just makes a dark or white spot on leaves. I've had all three from sunburn. I have no way of knowing whether sun is what caused this, but it's possible.

Because rots can move so fast-- I've seen them destroy a plant in just a day or so. Because they move so fast, always act immediately when you see *any*-- even a speck.

No way to be sure what caused this problem. There are always several causes that produce the same effects. Why diagnosis is difficult and time consuming.

I would definitely repot. Phals respond positively to a repot with new growth for the next three months. Also, you get a good chance to find out what's going on with the roots. Be sure to repot into a pot only a little bigger than the roots.

Use a light hand when repotting. If you are using bark as a medium, soak the plant pot and all in tepid water for about 20' before hand to soften the roots for less damage to them.

This time of year, the angle of the sun changes, and places that didn't receive direct sun suddenly do. That can create burns on a plant. The only way of knowing if a place is too hot, is touching the leaves while the sun is on them-- if cool to barely warm, ok. If warm be cautious. If hot, they are definitely burning. Cool them quickly with cool water.
claritamaria
16 years ago
Mehitabel has excellent advise!

This time of year is the "wild card". It is worse than Spring. Weather is up and down, day length shortening. Sun is very intense due to the angle.

The only place I disagree with our resident "Phal Goddess" is the re-pot. Plants with problems may slide. I don't like disturbing sick/injured, unaclimated plants unless I have to. That means the highly over potted, no drainage holes, smelly old spag or mud. I'd rather let them be. Phals are the group that mind re-potting the least. However, I have blown up sick/rehabbing plants repotting. One went dark and leathery on me for no reason. NOIDs are funny like that. You just don't know what you've got. If your media is ok, I would leave it be.

If the plant is potted too low it can cause the bottom leaves to yellow. Water tends to get trapped on the bottom (for me). I lift the bottom leaves up when watering.

Check the crown area, side and on top. Crown rot is a really bad thing. I'd also treat it systemically if you find it's rot. Physan or Phyton. If you are going to cut the leaf, peroxide also works. Remember to sterilize your cutting instrument!

As you have found, phals are resiliant little creatures.
Much Luck to you!

Clara
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mehitabel
16 years ago
Sheesh, Clara! "Phal Goddess"-- no way. Just happen to like them, that's all. Maybe "Phal Fan" :)

New phal leaves lead to wilt & rot of old leaves?

Comments (3)

mehitabel

claritamaria

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