Should we renovate our 1995 manufactured home or demolish?
Sally Jones
3 years ago
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Indecisiveness
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Should we enclose our patio for an additional room?
Comments (39)Thank you, everyone. It's such a modest amount of space, but it really makes a difference to have my own little area. And as a former California girl, I really treasure the light in that room, particularly in winter. shades_of_idaho -- we did have our old, scary futon in here for a while, but I banished it to the basement after I found a sofa bed that would fit. We tried to get rid of it a few years ago by putting it out on the front sidewalk (usually a surefire method), and no one took it! A free futon! In a college town! And no takers! desertsteph -- I told myself I would relearn crewel embroidery after the room was finished, but I still haven't gotten around to it. My grandmother taught me many years ago, and I have several half-completed projects. As for the fans in my room, they're made in a little shop about an hour north of me in Illinois. I negotiated a discount by buying two and driving out to the workroom to pick them up. I love their unique look. yogastef -- You're right, it does bring in nature. Makes it more peaceful. I sometimes think it was an incredible folly to spend so much on a sliver of a room, but your comments make me feel better about it, and I really do love it....See MoreShould I hire a home inspector? X Post on manufactured homes
Comments (15)Wow, Mary, I'm so sorry that happened to you! I think I read about your problems over on the manufactured homes forum, or was that someone else? My ex and I bought a stick built house in 1988 in Sacramento. A home inspection was, of course, required. A couple of weeks after we moved in, I happened to be in the backyard while hubby was showering. I looked over and saw water just gushing from the window sill and coming down the exterior of the house like a waterfall. It cost a little over $10,000 to fix, and was only that little because our new neighbor loved fixing things and had every power tool known to humankind, lol. It took a month of weekends for hubby and neighbor to fix it. We sued the home inspector and recouped all our costs plus punitive damages, which we split with neighbor guy. Good thing ex is an attorney! :-) Thanks for the advice, Chris. It looks like ~$300 is the going price, and in the grand scheme of things, I think it's worth it if, as Steph recommends, I find someone with experience in manufactured homes. In this case, the inspector doesn't have to please any realtors, sellers, or buyers. Since I've already bought the house, lived in it as a houseguest with my friends for the entire month of September, and know everything my friends know about the house, I can be very specific about what I want her to look for. As Chris said, it will be helpful for prioritizing. I'm hoping to refurbish the entire house top to bottom. I have an eight to ten year plan. I love a good ten year project! I started going back to college in 2007 and hope to graduate with my PhD in 2017--a ten year project, haha! (I'll have had 13 years of higher education! You'd think I'd know something by now, haha!) I have a list of what I think are priorities, and rough estimates of what everything will cost. My first project, next September, will be an asphalt driveway and carport. Because of my mobility disability and the necessity of using a walker, and because I can't get soaking wet entering/exiting my home and car, a dry, smooth surface and dry carport is a necessity before next winter. I'm going to replace all the electrical wiring and plumbing regardless of current condition, only because they're original to the house and will need upgrading at some point anyway. I'm also redoing all the floors because they're hideous, lol, so while I'm at it, I'll do all new floor insulation. There are no leaks, and I had the roof snow coated in October, which is guaranteed for ten years. So a new roof is down lower on the priority list, but still in the ten year plan. I'll blow insulation into the "attic" when I do the roof. The siding and skirting are much newer than the house and are in beautiful condition, so replacing them would be almost last on the list. The gut remodel of the kitchen/living room, major remodel of both bathrooms, and closet systems and cosmetic touch ups of the bedrooms will be in the middle, somewhere after electrical, plumbing, and floors, but before roof and siding. It's a ten year project because I'm paying as I go, in cash, as money becomes available. That's MY plan. I want the home inspector to tell me if my priorities are right or if I need to do something sooner rather than later. The yard will be an ongoing project. I've figured out how to do an aesthetically pleasing yard using various kinds of rocks, drought resistant plants, and ornamental grasses, for very, very little money and very low maintenance....See MoreGeorgia Red Clay Soil...What should we do?
Comments (17)When did you plant the fescue seed? This should have been a good looking lawn by October if you planted the seed in September. Fall is always the best time of year to plant a cool season turf grass. Having said that, with the Earth warming, the Atlanta area is moving from the transition zone to the southern or warm zone. If you wanted to plan for the future, then going with a hybrid bermuda (not the weed-like common varieties), St Augustine, or some of the zoysias might be a better approach. Those go down as sod and can be applied any time of year. Before you spend a lot of money trying to fix the clay soil, I strongly suggest you get a really good soil test to verify the salt values and the total exchange capacity. It often happens that people believe they have clay soil because it cracks and holds moisture like you would expect modeling clay to do. But if your soil has a low TEC and high magnesium content, it will act very much like clay. The repair for clay soil is different than the repair for high magnesium, so you need to know what you have to fix it right. The $25 test from Logan Labs in Ohio is a great test to answer these questions. They will email you the results in a week. Then you can post the results here and get a read from the forum members. I would not do anything but mow the weeds until mid April. By then a new crop of summer annual weeds will have bolted, and you can spray those out. Something like Weed-b-Gon will take care of the broadleaf weeds leaving you with grass and grassy weeds. Then you can evaluate what you have left. Whatever you have left should be mowed at the mower's highest setting to encourage the fescue growth and discourage bermuda growth. If you get a chance look around at TIF 419 hybrid bermuda. It has been THE choice of contractors since the late 1960s which has caused the price to fall down to about $50 per pallet. In this case, "contractor grade" bermuda is one of the finest turfgrasses you can get. As has been mentioned it does not grow in the shade, so on the north side of buildings, fences and shrubs it will thin out and fail. But on the south side, it's great. If you decide to renovate with a southern or warm season turf, let us know for more tips on preparing the soil. These sod type southern lawns can be put down in the spring very successfully, but prepping is important. Here's one tip: NEVER rototill in preparation for grass. Here is some general lawn care advice gleaned from this and other forums over the past 19 years. This is in order of importance. Water deep and infrequently. Deep means 1 inch all at one time every time you water. Infrequently changes depending on the temperature. For the winter and until the temperature gets into the 70s, you should water no more often than once a month. If it rains then stretch out the interval. With temps steadily in the 70s, you can deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps in the 80s, move up to once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 90s, you should water once per week. The purpose of deep watering is to get water deeper into the soil which encourages the roots to grow down to get moisture and nutrients deeper in the soil. If you have been told you need to water every day, that is absolutely incorrect. Daily watering, besides encouraging short roots, also promotes weed seed germination. Mulch mow at your mower's highest setting. This also encourages the roots to grow deeper to support more foliage above the surface. Taller grass looks nicer and helps to shade out any weed seedlings that might germinate. There are three grass type exceptions to mowing high. Those are bermuda, centipede, and creeping bentgrass. Those should be mowed at the mower's lowest setting. Fertilizer: If you fertilize with chemical fertilizer, make your first application on Memorial Day. Don't get tempted by the TV commercials in February selling Scott's 5-step program. Your grass does not need any fertilizer until May. Apply again on Labor Day and again around Thanksgiving or after the grass stops growing. If you want to use an organic approach, I would apply alfalfa pellets at a rate of 15-20 pounds per 1,000 square feet 3 weeks prior to your last freeze date, then Memorial Day, 4th of July, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. If you opt for the chemical program, I would still make at least one application of organics per year to help keep your soil healthy. You could use compost, but it takes 700 pounds of compost to equal the nutritional value of 15 pounds of alfalfa. Plus the 700 pounds would smother the grass, so don't do that. As I mentioned those are listed in order of importance. Proper watering is far more important than proper mowing and much, MUCH more important than fertilizing. I would say it is 70%, 20%, and 10% if I was totaling the value of the three. Once you get the watering, mowing, and fertilizer down, most of the lawn issues will go away. If you should get a disease or insects, then write back here to help get it diagnosed and find a solution. One more consideration, if your poodle wears a path in the turf, you might consider using mulch along the path....See MoreHouse Renovation Questions on Time & Material Contract
Comments (10)@User said, A heavy equipment rental place is literally next door to our office. Those are their rates. I didn't price a skid steer with them. Just specifically a dump truck, and asked a quick off the cuff estimate for all of that equipment. If the OP wants to do a check as to what all of that would cost, that's fine. It is still a large savings over 3rd party rentals, which do not include operators. What kind of new math is this? How is it a large savings over 3rd party rentals if it is more money? I literally checked United Rentals in Portland Oregon... You can check the other equipment and none of it approaches anything that would make it cheaper. In a time and materials contract the cost of the operator would be billed separately and not included in the equipment premium. ----- This is exactly why these things needs to be spelled out in the contract before being billed. Because the OP can now reasonably go back and say that they are not going to pay the contractor $60 per hour because the avoidable rate is $25 per hour. The entire purpose of a time and materials contract is that the owner purchases the materials and those materials are installed by the contractor. The contractor is allowed to charge a markup on materials and may purchase materials for the convenience of owners but they are not allowed to fabricate rates for tools that they provide. This is what the hourly rate is for. This is not to say that a contractor shouldn't charge a premium for using their heavy equipment, it is to say that a rate schedule for that equipment needs to be made available prior to its use....See MoreRedRyder
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