Ok I'll stick my neck out but upfront is a BIG disclaimer that in no way is this tested, approved or even recommended. And add all that stuff the fast talking lawyers say on the adds on TV, ok? ;) The BBB Boston Baked Beans is the closest to your recipe posted above. 1 qt. dried navy beans (about 2 lbs.) 1/2 lb. salt pork cut into pieces 3 large onions, sliced 2/3 c brown sugar 2 tsp. salt 2 tsp. dry mustard 2/3 cup molasses Since you will be using the Bush canned beans I won't include the part in the recipe about pre-soaking/rehydrating the dried beans. Pour beans into a baking dish or bean pot. Add pork and onions. Combine remaining ingredients and 4 cups of the reserved bean liquid and add water to make 4 cups if necessary. (I would measure the juice from the Bush cans and bring it up to 4 cups with extra water, maybe even add a can of tomato sauce to it.) Ladle sauce over the beans, cover and bake at 350 degrees for about 3 1/2 hours. Add water if necessary as beans should be soupy. Pack hot beans and sauce into hot jars leaving 1 inch headspace.** Remove air bubbles. Adjust 2 piece caps. Process pints 1 hours and 20 mins, quarts 1 hour and 35 mins at 10 lbs. (depending on altitude). Now for the deviations: I see no problems with adding the pineapple as it is acid, HOWEVER it will change the density so finely chop it (not chunks) and add the pineapple juice too. Your recipe calls for less onions so use its lesser amount and the ketchup in your recipe to help compensate for the change in density the pineapple causes. This gets you everything EXCEPT the peppers and you will have to use dried, not fresh, for those - either dried pepper flakes of some kind or dried peppers that have first been rehydrated in vinegar, not water. Follow me? Just too much pH effect otherwise. Of course you can always add them after you open the jars at serving time too. **When it comes to filling the jars you MUST have this be SOUPY and thinner than normal, much soupyier than you wish. The other baked bean recipes say "fill the jar only 3/4 full and the rest of the jar with liquid, remove air bubbles and add more liquid If you have to add more water to the cooking liquid to have enough - do it. Better too thin than too thick. You can thicken it up at serving time by cooking it down or adding a bit of corn starch or flour. OK? Dave ~ ducking from the hail of stones ;)

THanks patti, for putting up the link, I am either going to do this in my grandson's room or give it to his schools art class, I think it would be a great project for an art class and if they put it on a large piece of plywood they could auction it off...I just thought it was awesome. Huggy

" Red Oak is open grain and look's better if filled, White Oak is closed grain therefore doesn't require filling." -Wrong, completely 100% false. Both Red and White oak are OPEN grain woods. The grains on white oak are a bit more narrow, but still open. Maple is an example of a closed grain wood. If you take a close up pic of the floor, and post it, i can tell you if its red or white. I post over on the Floors forum all the time, post your question there and receive a lot more help. I personally dont like the varathane products, but thats for a different debate. For the Smoothest results, lightly abrade between EVERY coat. generally a 150 grit paper is fine, can even go 220. two coats in a day is fine. i would try 3 coats total (2 one day, then 1 more the next), and then see how you like the look. if it looks dry or you feel like another is necessary then go ahead. since you plan on staining the floor, do not keep adding coats after coats of stain. it can effect the adhession ability when you go to apply the coats of finish. If you want the stain to come out darker, you have two options, mix the stain with a darker stain, or you can Waterpop your floor. this will help get a more even color throughout the floor and take the stain a bit deeper. The wood filler i would do this, if you prefer to not trowel fill the entire floor during the sanding process, then after you get two coats of finish on the stain, then spot fill the areas you want and then lightly hand sand the fill off...doing this with finish applied will help prevent you from scuffing the stain off the bare wood causing a shading issue.

Agree that the lighting is of prime importance to change out. Accessories can add all the Tuscan influence you want. I would pull out the peninsula and replace it with a Tuscan work table. Your cabinets could stay, but I would add matching crown to all of them and remove that top on the one over the range. Evidently it may cover a vent system, but it looks like you're using a micro with recirculating vent. A warm Tuscan wall paint would be a major change. Work table with storage Accessories Beams that don't cover the entire ceiling might work, plus a Tuscan pendant or two More of a Tuscan farmhouse, white appliances and cabinets; more Tuscan accessories Unified crown molding helps This one is defined as "modern Tuscan" but might be a bit plain for you.