So you can get an idea of what brown w/ dark trim may offer you here are 2 browns that I used yrs. ago and really liked w/ my dark trim. Clearly you can see that I lean towards most anything w/ a green tone. I won't list the names as I just wanted to give you a general idea.: On a dreary day & flash: The next lighter shade on the strip: Brown could work very well w/ the greyer tones that you are trying to work w/. If I might make a few color suggestions to give you some ideas of greyed colors that could be close to some of those Farrow and Ball colors that could look so nice w/ your wood - not sure about the windows: Really Greyed colors BM Imperial Gray #1571 BM Cheyenne Green #1502 or 1512 - can't read my writing SW Svelte Sage SW Softened Green #6177 BM Mesquite #0501 Clearer colors that are similar to some F&B colors: BM Healing Aloe #1562 SW Mountain Air Valspar Field of Pines #5004-4A BM Blue Grass #CC-640 Valspar April Thicket #5003-3C BM Wythe Blue #HC-143 BM Florentine Plaster #520 SW Naturel #2080 Also don't think that using a rich cream/ neutral color is a cop out. Sometimes that is a beautiful way to pull all of the others colors together and have a subtle yet rich palette that flows so well. Remember - if that window can be seen from other rms. the wall colors in those other rms. can raelly help draw the color of the window out and totally unify everything around it. Have you thought about painting the parlor another color instead of Rich Cream? Maybe paint the entry rm. Rich Cream instead. My thought process is that when you would walk into your home you would see the beautiful window w/ no hard visual color pulling away from it and then all of the subtle greyed tones all around. Although I do see your point - Rich Cream would really look lovely w/ that white in that rm. Personally I do not regret for an instant deciding to go neutral in my hallway.

If the current perimeter wall is in good condition, I actually think I would first consider seeing if the orange vertical stone could be stained gray and, if so, I would forego the expense of removing the perimeter wall and instead invest in creating an amazing modern landscaping design.

My house was built in 1988 so it is from the golden oak era. All my cabinets, doors, and trim were golden oak. My floors are not oak (they are ash) but they did have a golden color to them. The floors also had cherry accent in the dining area and around the great room. We refinished the floors and left them natural. We remodeled the kitchen 7 years ago and put in natural cherry cabinets. The cabinets have darkened a bit and have a warm reddish color to them. I do think you should have your floors lighter than your cabinets. We left all the golden oak trim and doors as was. So I have a "lot of stained wood" going on. I love the look of it and I do not mind an "entire house of stained wood, same color or not" as Anglophilia warns against. Here are some pictures of my kitchen and surrounding areas to help you visualize lots of stained wood: Good luck with your decision.

Sorry I don't know for sure, however, your stain will be influenced by the current color of your wood, so you may have to do some testing. If you consider Duckback, it's only sold at better paint/hardware stores, they may be able to guide you, or you might be able to email them with pics of your yard to the HQ and get some info back from their technical people.