The issue with sun is whether the plants that need sun to thrive will get enough of it. The question is, what exposure do those plants have? You need to know whether it is north, west, etc, because, for example, an east exposure will not be enough sun for sun-loving plants in most climates, but it might be if you live in a hot climate. You haven't given us your climate, and that matters in most gardening and landscaping questions. I believe there is a beginner's gardening forum where you might have more luck discussing this question. But to be honest, there is nothing that can replace the site-specific learning that comes from trial and error, so I would encourage you to plant as you have planned, and see how things do end up meeting your needs, or not. Dahlias need to be dug up in fall and taken inside, and other plants will need replanting in subsequent years, so you will have plenty of opportunity to tweak from year to year - something that gardeners have to perpetually do, if only because plants grow! Karin L

That PLs are usually found in riparian settings (streamside or in boggy environments) where they naturally occur is absolutely no cause to believe they will do well in boggy soils. They adapt well to various types of water culture, and perform very well in fast-draining, well-aerated soils, but should be expected to perform poorly when asked to make the transition in soils from lengthy periods of significant saturation to times when the soil has dried down and become reasonably well-aerated and more hospitable to the plant. The reason, as has been pointed out, is the fact that the plant will grow roots structured to allow the plant to deal with one or the other set of conditions, but not both in a cycle that starts with a long period of saturation transitioning to the more appropriate moist (rather than wet or soggy) medium. How well a soil drains is determined almost exclusively by the size of the particles it is comprised of. While the arrangement you have with the pot sitting above the effluent in the collection saucer is commendable, it has no impact on how well the soil drains or its level of aeration. 1. How often should I water? Intervals will vary with season, light load, amount of air movement, ....... Unless you use a soil that allows watering on a schedule as opposed to on an 'as needed' basis, and yours doesn't, you should absolutely stick to watering only when the plant gets dry to the point it needs water. In fact, in spite of the stress it would create, it would actually be better if you waited for this plant to exhibit signs of the first stage of wilt before you water than to water before the plant need it. I'm not advocating using drought stress indicators to signal the plants need for water - just trying to establish a feel for the idea that a little under-watering is less limiting than over-watering. For this plant, marking your watering date on the calendar and OCCASIONALLY waiting for the first signs of wilt to establish appropriate intervals between waterings is a reasonable strategy. If you'd rather, buy a wooden birch dowel rod (1/4 or 5/16") from a hardware or big box store. Cut into appropriate length pieces for your plants, sharpen the ends with a pencil sharpener, and use the pieces stuck deep into the pot as 'tells' that will let you know the moisture conditions deep in the pot. If they come out wet or stained dark from wet soil, withhold water until they come out clean. MUCH better than "watering gauges/meters". 2. What else can I do for this plant? The answer to that could easily fill a book. You could try reading this (click on link). I read someplace that liquid fertilizer once a month is good too. Yay or nay on that? To be meaningful, any advice regarding frequency of fertilizer applications has to take into consideration your soil choice and watering habits. For example, if you water in small sips to avoid your MG soil remaining soggy too long, a one month interval at the regular rate is an automatic problem for more than one reason, and the type of fertilizer as well as its NPK %s both play a part in determining the criticality of the issue. If you're using a soil that allows you to water at will w/o the need to fear consequences centering on the fact the soil will be saturated for a length of time measured in weeks, you can actually fertilize at low doses every time you water, which is how I choose to fertilize all my plants during the winter. One type of soil (those that are very water-retentive, like yours) make it almost impossible to maintain control over effective nutritional supplementation; other types of soil that support little or no saturation make establishing and maintaining a sound supplementation program monkey easy. Al

Yes, that's the idea I was expressing. For now, just use your table lamp on the cabinet while you shop for one that is ideal. Fred Gonkowski has 3 articles on decorating with lamps. You'll find them helpful. https://fredgonsowskigardenhome.com/2012/12/12/interior-decorating-with-table-lamps/

Agree, with pups. Very pretty and keep it simple. Not a lot of counter space, and there is always a lot going on in a vacation place. Buy some pretty dishes, glassware and dish towels. Plenty of nice looking, and sturdy, non-breakable dishes and drinking glasses too. Maybe a washable runner in front of the sink area.