Older home with ALOT of wood, need remodeling idea
Dan Montalvo
4 years ago
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Q's If U Remodeled Older Small Master Bath-PIC link
Comments (13)My master bath used to be 4'x8'. I demo'd two bathrooms that were back to back and stole 1.5' from the other to make it 5.5'x8'. >I would like to know from others who renovated a small master bathroom from an older home if you were able to "find" space and make it appear bigger, gain space by using small vanities, etc. Our toilet is in a bump out so that the door--on one of the short ends--can open. This was original to the house. Now, it's just a shallower bump-out, 1' instead of 1.5'. We're using the full depth of that 1' for a wall cabinet, which will be 48" tall x 28" wide. This gives us a place for the humidifier, my box 'o Ace bandages/splints/etc, the cleaning bucket, and all the linens for that bath. Our medicine cabinet will be recessed. It back up to another medicine cab, which must have a light above, so it has sconces. There is a 10.5" gap between the door frame and the wall. We found a 10" deep cab that we're filling back there. Our vanity is actually a full 36". Part of it is 21" deep, and part is 18". We found a brand that looks nice but packs a huge amount of storage into the space. To put in the wall cab, we had to replace the toe-kick heater with a towel warmer, due to space constraints. Our colors will help open the space. The 66" tub will have frameless sliding doors. The walls and floors will be patterns of white with a light gray grout. There will be tile wainscotting to 40" in patterns of white, and the ceiling and substantial crown molding will be white. The walls will be a medium blue-green, but so little will be visible that it'll function as just an accent color. We can't steal space from the walls except for the medicine cabinet because it backs onto an outer wall. If it weren't for that, our 10" cabinet would be 14" deep, inset into the wall. With an 18" vanity, you'll have plenty of room to feel comfortable, even though 21" is murderous. At 4' depth, our 17" sink was bad, but an extra 6" would have made it okay. Our hall bathroom is now 8'x5.5', with a bite out of it where the toilet is for the master bath's toilet to have room with a swinging door. We stole space in that bathroom outrageously! A cabinet above the toilet, which is 8" deep, is recessed 4" into the wall (3.5" stud plus wallboard). I made two other in-wall cabinets, each about 14"x12", interior. One will be hidden behind a picture frame, so only one will be noticeable. I also but a HUGE medicine cabinet above the vanity, which is only 28" wide but packs in 6 drawers and even a shelf in the plumbing space--and looks nice, too. We couldn't recess that cabinet because the one backing it in the master bath is recessed. The lower in-wall cabinet will hold the first aid kit, while the upper one will hold meds that we use but not regularly--cold meds, etc. The medicine cabinet will hold all daily use things that don't fit in the drawers--even the kids' toothbrushes and tooth-brushing cups aren't going on the counter, which will have just the bathroom clock and the soap, and that's it. On the back of the toilet bowl is a kleenex box holder. In the tub area, I don't use regular shampoo bottles but travel-sided ones with really small openings to make it easier to get just a little shampoo or conditioner, even, and the toys are in a cute plastic frog toys scoop on the wall. Clear glass shower doors--when they arrive--will also help keep it open. I can't emphasize enough the importance of not having stuff sitting out to making a space look larger. Nothing makes a room feel small like a lot of stuff just cluttered around. The mud will only be in the shower. The rest will be sheetrock--the size of the room you have is what you get! In your case, if you REALLY can't move any walls (I'd want a tub in there!!!), I'd indulge in some creative thinking. Your bathroom is 4.5x9' total, which REALLY isn't horrifically small. (Remember that mine was 4x8....) I'd start with the shower. I'd stay in the same footprint but do a Kerdi shower so the threshold could be SUPER narrow--just 2". That gives you a good 2" of apparent interior space in the shower, plus likely another .5" of width without the mud base. Recessed niches are a MUST. Too big is better than too small! I'd get a frameless shower door--almost goes without saying in this setting. I'd do wainscotting to 40", continuing over the top edge of the vanity--this is a kind of "special effect," because unless you paint the upper part of the wall a dark color, it tricks the eye into believing there's more space. Continuing just those 4" behind the vanity makes a big difference, here. For the flooring, I'd do either a small mosaic OR 12x12" or larger, and the 12x12" should be on the diagonal. A "rug" effect actually makes a small room seem larger if the rug part has diagonal lines and the border is small. For the ceiling, crown molding make it seem higher as long as the molding and the ceiling are both white. Painting the ceiling any color but white lowers it in comparison to white. Use hooks rather than rods. They make the space seem bigger and stick out less. I designate a minimum of two hooks per person--one for a towel, one for a robe. The back of the door is a good place to hang things. Use art--and use it strategically. A properly-sized picture can make a space seem larger, and you can use it to hide another recessed medicine cabinet. With a .5"-deep frame, you can have 4.5" shelves. Extra TP, first aid stuff, and irregularly used meds can be stored there. Recess the medicine cabinet, if you possibly can, and make the mirror as WIDE as possible for maximum reflection. I'd commission a custom vanity for the space, and I'd use an undermount sink or would install a square vessel sink in an apron-front manner, like this: http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Kraus-White-Rectangular-Ceramic-Vessel-Sink/3250161/product.html You have 42" of space, which is plenty for quite a nice amount of drawers plus a good-sized sink. If you used the sink above, you'd have, with a frameless design, 10.5" for drawers on either side. Make the cabinet kitchen counter height and have two shallow drawers and a deep drawer, and you can still have 8" of open space at the bottom. Even a bun-foot design has less visual weight than going all the way to the floor. Under the sink, add a shelf directly under the plumbing to make a shallow extra "landing" for a small container of things. The one thing, in my bathrooms, that I want space for and don't have is dirty clothes. But as far as everything else, I have MORE storage than I know what to do with! I have space for a cleaning bucket in each bathroom, for all our meds, for my makeup (and plenty of space for kid makeup, when the time comes), even for the Drano, for linens in my bathroom, for tons of bulk storage (extra soap, extra lotion, extra hair products, etc.). We have so much space that the counters can be basically bare. AND far from looking crowded, our hall bath strikes people as much larger than its square footage....See MoreNeed lots of work done on older home on limited budget-where to start?
Comments (10)Are you on the Virginia side? If so, I might be able to help with referrals to reasonably price contractors and handypeople. PM me if you don't want to publicly post info about the specific town you live in. Also, you might consider a tact my NoVA-dwelling sister recently took to fix up a lot of stuff in her house for sale prep. She posted specific projects on CL, from replacing grout around a tub to removing a tree to a bunch of drywall repair to painting her entire house. She also had a slew of handyman jobs. She posted a photo of what needed to be done, specifics on timing (needed to be done in the evenings when she was home), and asked for bids. She got lots of emails, ranging from hacks saying "I can fix this for you, text me" (which she ignored) to bona fide contractors looking for fill-in work. She picked a couple with the best responses, talked to them further on the phone, and then hired one. All did excellent work. I'd consider starting with your plumbing stuff, and let them cut holes in the walls to access the pipes. Once you're done, get a drywaller to come in and patch everything. Paint it yourselves. Find a concrete person to redo your walk and stairs. Get a handyman to replace your light fixtures, doors and repair your deck. Find a window company to replace your windows (if that's what needed). Piecing out this stuff will be less costly (and faster) than finding a GC to organize it all. You may not be handy enough to save on labor by DIY-ing the work, but you can DIY the hiring of specialists and save on the middleman. In the meantime, work on your plans for kitchen and bath remodels by using the respective forums here. We can help you design spaces that are functional, beautiful, and budget-friendly. Nice kitchens can be had for way less than $60K. Start watching CL in the "materials" section and snag stuff that you can use in your work. People sometimes post entire kitchens, you can find brand new vanities or tops, and you might luck into some ceiling fans. Ebay often has good deals on faucets and other bathroom fixtures, so troll the listings there....See MoreNeed help with curb appeal on an older house
Comments (18)Plywood for a planter is not going to last but if you want to do as a temporal installment, fine. Honestly, I can't imagine that creating a solid wall type structure between the columns is going to be a plus for the overall look of the house. If we just want to do that in order to plant in that space, then I'd do the railing and get a planter box that fits over it like a saddle. In order to create formwork to fit steps, make a negative piece for the steps by placing 3/4" plywood at the end of steps. Trace the outline of the steps and cut the "halves" apart at the line. One piece represents the steps and is waste. The other piece will fit over the steps top edges (where the air is). Create a box that attaches to that piece and represents the outside form of the planter/cheekwall. If it's a planter, too, you'll need a "box" form for the inside of the planter. Figure out how to add bracing to the piece that sits on the steps in order to keep it stable during the pour. Of course, you'll calculate all the measurements first so you can make the planter height and size end up correctly. I will only get additional ideas for drawings if there are specific problems presented. In the last picture you added, Surge, it looks as if grade is running toward the house. In a prior picture taken from another angle, it doesn't. If grade is sloping down toward house, then it needs to be fixed before doing any planting....See MoreNeed help deciding to remodel kitchen-older hous
Comments (16)I think I can at least help with the chimney question. I'm assuming there is a fireplace facing the LR on the other side and you want to vacate it, yes? Possibly the FP is in the basement and this is just the chimney portion? It should work pretty much the same either way. We had a mid-house FP like that that needed to come out for structural reasons (wasn't footed correctly when built and was causing problems). Here's the original:Here's after they removed the FP and the chimney exposing the DR behind it. Notice the holes above and below. Not a problem. All of this only took one day of work.: And here's how it looks after everything was patched up and the sunken floor raised, but before finishing touches including furniture:This is a very doable project....See MoreDan Montalvo
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