floor height relative to base boards question

4 years ago

So, I'm installing engineered in the basement, but the question is - how heigh can I go? Does the boards have to be able to slide under the current base boards? Right now, there is room for 1/2" but if I go 5/8" or 3/4" then it couldn't slide underneath. In that case, would you just leave a gap and then use trim or do you have to raise the baseboards to accommodate? Thanks.

Featured Answer

SJ McCarthy

4 years ago

If you are leaving baseboards in place, then you will use quarter round or shoe molding to hide the gap.

I'm assuming you are doing a floating hardwood?

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Comments (12)

PRO
Farner Hardwood Flooring Inc
4 years ago
Yeiks! What are you doing. Stop! No self respecting installer will want to instal under the baseboards. That needs to go after!
PRO
Farner Hardwood Flooring Inc
4 years ago
And wait.... basement you say? What wood floor are you doing in a basement and how will you protect it from moisture? It can be done, but a lot of extra considerations need to be taken there.
David West thanked Farner Hardwood Flooring Inc
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David West
Original Author
4 years ago
Ok, so more detail, this is engineered hardwood - I have choices between a variable width flooring 4,5,6 inches. with max length of 60". or a 7.5" wide max length 72" planks fo the basement. But, from what I can infer, the clearance of the baseboard doesn't matter what thickness of plank I use - if I am interpreting you right.
Jennifer Svensson
4 years ago
Base boards are meant to go on after the floor is installed not before..
PRO
Farner Hardwood Flooring Inc
4 years ago
Oh. I think you are asking how thick the baseboard should be, right? 1/2” is plenty to cover the expansion around the perimeter left after your floor is installed.
David West
Original Author
4 years ago
No, Basement on slab, so glue down
PRO
Farner Hardwood Flooring Inc
4 years ago
SJMcCarrhy is right on (as always). And I agree too, a floating is a good choice for a basement. Basements and glue-down not usually a good combo because of moisture. If you already got the wood it is not one that can be installed as a floating floor maybe consider a floating subfloor. Anything to get away from a possible bath tub down there.
SJ McCarthy
4 years ago
@ David West: Little confused now. You stated, "... or a 7.5" wide max length 72" planks fo the basement. "

Which doesn't make sense if you do not have a basement. And PLEASE tell us how old your house/slab is. A glue down could be MASSIVELY difficult (even for a pro).
David West
Original Author
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
Thank you for all your thoughts and concerns. Let me give more detail. Okay, the basement was unfinished since 1998 - so more than 20 years now. So, that sucker is dry. My GC says glue is the way to go.

So, my questions were based on floor height, which you all have answered - it will be shoed to the baseboard when installed

What I have been debating is things like site finished or going with a factory prefinished engineered. I thought tile was bad, but honestly, flooring is worse - ha ha.

so many options and cost variables - 2mm vs 4mm - 1/2 inch vs 5/8 vs 3/4. I'm not a lVP or LVT guy, so I dig the real thing (even though its engineered) and tile was just too pricey.

I've read pretty much every 2020 flooring trend article there is out there - wide planks, distressed wood, grays, etc.

So, as I weight the pros and cons for my basement, I try to understand the variables. Like does it realy matter from a hummidity standpoint (and yes I have a full time HVAC ). does it matter if you use a 4,5,6, or 7 or 9 Inch wide plank for the basement? Are you pressing you luck the wider you go or it doesn't matter.

I hope that brings some context to my questions and thank you for all your feedback

I'm looking at Palmetto Road (Bella Cera), Hallmark, Hurst, and reviewed others as well.
SJ McCarthy
4 years ago
With glue down you will need a full spread 100% moisture barrier adhesive. Those start around $2/sf and move up from there. Even these barriers have limits. The concrete in the basement will need to be tested using in-dwelling probes.

The floor must be flat = $2-$4/sf of subfloor prep. Before you purchase the wood, you are already at $4-$6/sf. The cost of the wood and the labour for the install will be extra.

Glue down in a basement (even if it appears 'dry' it may not be as dry as you think) is always tricky. Even with all the right products and all the right techniques it can still fail. And when it fails it fails in a magnificent manner.

Be VERY AWARE of what you are about to undertake. Your high-end flooring contractor *should require you sign a waiver stating that despite their best efforts and knowledge gained at the time of install, they will NOT be responsible for failure due to moisture.

If the installer does NOT create this waiver, then they are not as 'high-end' as they would appear.
Karen
3 years ago
David west - have you installed your flooring yet? If not, I installed Hallmark engineered glue down on concrete slab (Florida, not a basement). Would not do again even though they are beautiful. The finish color/stain does not go through the wood and sit’s on top of the wood. We had a water issue (flood) and the top surface peeled away in places. (the wood did not lift up, just no longer finished in areas.).