How do I run a water line to my shed conversion?
Victoria Price
4 years ago
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Bruce in Northern Virginia
4 years agoJake The Wonderdog
4 years agoRelated Discussions
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Comments (7)alpiner makes a good point. I hadn't thought about the permitting bit, as we are rural and have no need for a permit to install underground lines on our own property. However, the one line that would be the most messy and difficult in the future is water, as even in Z-6, a frost line needs to be considered, whereas nat. gas and electric can be laid just enough below the surface to be safe from a rototiller. So I would still encourage you to get your water line in now, and cap it with a freeze-proof faucet. As alpiner correctly notes, if you have your contractor install a tap for nat. gas and an outside electrical outlet; tapping into them and running a shallow trench later would be pretty simple. Come to think on it; I recall an earlier post from a GH owner who only had LP gas and no place near their GH to keep another tank, or get a delivery truck to it, to fill one, so had to devise a means to tap into their main tank at the house and run a line out. If you are going to heat with LP, you might want to think about heating your shed now. If you will want gas to it, plan for an additional connection on your main tank. So many details to think about when construction a new house! Giving thought to a future potting shed is very proactive on your part, and smart....See MoreHow do I increase my Water pressure?
Comments (20)To northga, I found this post purely by accident. I thought I would give my 2 cents worth anyway. Do not bother with a larger hose ( if you need a new hose anyway by all means get the 3/4". Don't bother with the expense of a 1" ). The increase in pressure will be negligable ( unless you have a long run of hose ). Someone answered your post and part of his information stated that in your area it was common to have a 3/4 inch service line and water meter. If true your water venders' engineers need an education, 3/4 inch is absurd unless you are providing water supply to a camper. In any case it sounds like a plumbing problem ( very common ). Many times ( frankly most of the time ) pipe and fitting sizes are just to small ( even if 'up to code' )and create velocities that are to high, thus a more than reasonable pressure drop. I would love to sell you a booster pump, but that will not solve the problem ( considering the information you have provided). The first thing to due is to confirm the size of your service line and water meter ( if 3/4" you are out of luck ). Your water vender should be able to provide you this information. Second, locate your water meter. There will be some type of isolation valve(s)( shut-off valve(s) ). Be sure the valves are fully open ( you would be surprised how often they are not ). Next locate your pressure regulating valve ( yes you do have one ), if there are isolation valves here as well be sure they are fully open. I'm sure you have the same[pressure]problem inside the home when several demands are made on the supply ( this occurs in most every home due to small pipe sizes ).[ If the plumbing were sized and piped correctly your shower would not be affected by a toilet flushing. ] I am getting long here... A booster pump ( or any increase in pressure ) will not by itself provide an increase in flow ( gpm ). Flow is determined by what the plumbing (size) can provide within acceptable losses and by the demand on said plumbing. If you are demanding 20 gpm ( sprinklers, showers, dishwasher, etc ) all at the same time and your plumbing can only provide 12 gpm ( at 5 feet per second velocity ) you will give up the pressure that's available. There are many things you can do, even if your water meter is to small ( including but not limited to installing a booster pump ), however any "fixes" will result in increased flow and pressure for the sprinkler(s) and reduced flow and pressure in the home ( all things being equal ), short of installing a second service line and water meter. If there is a hose bib available upstream ( prior to ) of entering the house then do use this connection ( see "fixes" above ), this alone may provide you with the what [pressure] you are looking for. The bottom line is consider doing your outside watering during a time when houshold water consumption is not an issue. Hell, I've got to get back to work hope this has been some help. MChristensen, Technical Consultant Booster Pump Tech Here is a link that might be useful: GardenWeb...See MoreWhat Do I Need to Know Re: Replacing a Copper Water Line /Street
Comments (3)The fact that your line has already stood 83 years of service says a lot as to the service life of copper however the fact that you had to repair it also says that it may be nearing the end of its service life. What to do? I would not panic. This is one of those situations were it would be prudent to consider replacing the line within a short time, but the question then becomes, what is a short time when discussing a water line? I would consider replacing it within the next 3 to 5 years, but you need to get the project going now. First of all, this line is serving as the municipal main for 6 homes, so the cost of replacement should be equally shared by all 6 homeowners. (From my experience you will always have at least one homeowner who balks at the idea, but not to worry, there are laws compelling them to pay their fair share, it just causes delays and increases the cost when you have to get lawyers & courts involved). Obviously copper has proven to be a good choice, but with the price of copper today it would be nearly cost prohibitive. A much better choice would be HDPE pipe (high density Polyethylene pipe), which is what is being used by most municipal water suppliers today. The next question is, how will it be installed? The obvious solution would be to get a backhoe and start at one end of the street and dig a trench to the other end, but that introduces a bunch of problems. What about all the sewer & gas lines that are in the easement? And all the house sewer and house gas lines that are tapped into the mains? In a municipal area you may also be confronted with underground telephone, cable, commercial communications lines, data network lines , storm sewers, and who knows what else is buried in that easement. And that is just assuming that all the houses are on the same side of the street. What if three of the houses are on one side and three on the other. How do you replace the line under the street and still maintain a traffic flow so the ppl can get to their house during the construction? There is a way. Instead of digging an open trench they can use a directional horizontal drilling machine. A horizontal drilling machine is set up at one end of the run and a drill pipe is sent down to the required depth then they turn it horizontal and drill under all the existing lines without disturbing them. The tip of the horizontal drill bit has a tiny radioactive chip that can be followed by a hand held receiving unit while standing on the ground so the ground hand knows the exact location and depth of the drill. As the line passes each house the ground hand can mark the exact location where the underground pipe is passing so a small access hole can be dug to make final connection from the main line to the house line, and if you have to run lines to the other side of the street they can drill under the street without disturbing the street or traffic flow. When the steel drill pipe reaches the end of the run they turn it up so it will come out above grade. The plastic HDPE pipe is then attached to the steel drill pipe and as the drill pipe is pulled back it will pull the HDPE pipe into place. The HDPE pipe is available in rolls up to 1,000' long so you will have no underground joints except for the individual taps where each house ties in. Now in regards to joints. HDPE can either be joined by mechanical connectors or they can thermally weld it. You also need to consider the size of that line. Back in 1929 when that 2" copper was installed all houses were connected with a 3/4" line, which was fine for the needs in those days, but consider this. In 1929 each house had one bathroom with the simple layout, WC, tub & lav, a kitchen sink and a laundry tub, where they operated a wringer washer about once a week. And when they did laundry the washer was filled with about 10gallon of water once, and they ran 4 or 5 loads through the same water and another 8 or 10 gallon in the rinse tub. Today our washing machines consume 5 to 8 gal, two or three times per load. Today everybody showers daily, but back in 1929 they showered faithfully on Saturday night and sometimes once or twice during the week. Then again, how many of those houses have had additions with additional bathrooms and dishwashers in the kitchen? And that doesn't even consider that ppl are much more inclined to water their lawns or wash the cars a couple times a week today. Typically we use about 3 times as much water as they did in 1929. Now you may argue that you are doing all those things now and the 2" line is doing fine, and you would be absolutely correct. The volume of flow is not restricted by the line size, but as the demand increases the velocity of flow through the line increases. The problem is that as velocity increases proportionally, the pressure "friction head loss" increases exponentially. Hopefully, when you replace the line you will not design it just for the immediate needs today, but rather allow some expansion for what may come about in the next 83 years. When comparing the capacity of lines the formula is "Large diameter squared divided by the small diameter squared" will yeald how many small lines have the same cross sectional area as the large line. Let us consider your existing 2" line with 3/4" lines running to each house. (2x2)/ (.75x.75)= 4/0.5625= 7.1. That means the 2" line has the same cross sectional area as 7.1 lines that are 3/4", which was fine for 6 houses with minimal fixtures. Now there is a rule of thumb in the plumbing trade that if we increase the size of a line by one nominal trade size it approximately doubles the volume of flow. Let us see what happens if you increase the size of the pipe one nominal trade size from 2" to 2.5". (2.5"x2.5")/(.75"x.75")= 6.25 / .5625 = 11.1 As you can see, simply by increasing the size of the line from 2" to 2.5" you nearly double the cross sectional area, which means you can have nearly double the volume without causing a substantial increase in velocity. Simply increasing to 2.5" should net you a substantial pressure increase immediately and your system will have provision for additional loads as lifestyles change in future...See MoreHow long do I run my new pool pump?
Comments (4)A starting point would be to shoot for turning the water over twice a day. If you can maintain good water quality with a two-a-day schedule, you can lessen the turnover, eventually you'll hit a sweet spot where you're maintaining good water quality without running your pump too much. I'd recommend planning on a 12-hour run to start with. Out of the 12 hours, have the pump run on high for two hours and at a lower RPM for the other ten hours. The two hours at higher speed helps the skimmer, or that time can be used to run a pool cleaner. If debris isn't a problem, you can run on just the lower RPM three days in a row and on every fourth day throw in two hours at a higher RPM. You'll eventually customize your pumps run times and RPM setting to suit your water quality. Two turnovers is 2 x 15000, or 30000 gallons per day. You'll need to get into your pump's manual to get estimated GPM flows, or if the pump display shows GPM flow, you can use that. GPM is also limited by your pool's pipe size. Typically 2". It's also limited by how many GPM your filter can handle. When you have that info, just run some numbers. If you run for two hours at a high setting, say 70GPM, 70GPM x 60minutes x 2 hours = 8400 gallons in two hours. 30000 gal - 8400 gal = 21600 gal. 21600 gal / 10 hours / 60 minutes = 36GPM for the other ten hours. A starting point for you....See MoreVictoria Price
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