Adella, Within the Cucurbitaceae family, there are several species. It is within the species that different varieties might cross, but crossing between the species is very rare. Regardless, any cross-pollination that occurred would not affect this year's fruit. If cross-pollination did occur and you saved seed from the cross-pollinated variety, then when you plant and grow out that seed you might (or might not) have crossed veggies. I think often cross-pollination is blamed for 'weird fruit' when what people are seeing is weird fruit for other reasons, like cucumber mosaic virus, for example. So, you can plant your watermelon anywhere you want and, assuming you had good, uncrossed seed to begin with, you'll get the expected fruit of that variety. (Unless you've got a variety with a relatively short DTM, though, you're looking at the possibility of not getting melon before the first fall frost, especially if there is an early first frost.) Watermelon is Citrullus (species) lanatus (genus) as is citron melon, so different watermelon varieties and citron melon varieties could cross with one another, but you wouldn't see the results of that cross unless you saved seed from this year's fruits and planted that seed in a future year. This melons only cross with eavh other and not the other species. Melons belong to Cucumis (genus) melo (species) and all members of C. melo have the potential to cross-pollinate with one another but not with members of the other species found in the Cucumis family. Again, though, you wouldn't get weird fruit this year. You might get it next year if you save and plant seed from crossed fruit from this year's crossed fruit, if any of them cross. The C. melo family include true cantaloupes, muskmelons (generally erroneously referred to as cantaloupes in the USA), honeydew, casaba, vine peach, Asian pickling cucumber, Armenian cucumber (snake melons) and pocket melons. Cucumis sativas is the cucumber species. All members of cucumis sativas have the potential to cross with one another, but not with C. melo (melons as described above) or Citrullus lanatus (watermelons). See a pattern here? Some pumpkins and squashes within the six species (C. moschata, C. pepo, C. mixta, C. agyrosperm, C. ficifolia, and C. foetidissima)found in the genus Cucurbita will cross with one another, but there again, it is only an issue if you're saving and replanting seed. They won't cross with cucumbers, melons, or watermelons. Within the genus Cucurbita, varieties within each of the six species cross easily with each other, but crosses between the various species are very rare to almost non-existent. As with all the others, you'd see results of the crossing in the next generation if you save and plant seed, but not in the current generation. Hope this helps. Dawn

I have the exact configuration of a full depth refrigerator (ours is SxS, but the door situation is the same idea) next to a pantry. I was worried. I checked. I measured. I worried. It turned out perfect. The pantry door opens beyond 90 degrees. Actually it opens to its full stop which may be 110 degrees. Here's why. The door is about 19 inches wide, which sticks out WAY past the closed refrigerator door. So the cabinet pull can only hit air and since the door approaches the refrigerator at an angle, it goes past the refrigerator door before it extends as far to the side as the refrigerator. I don't know if that makes much sense. I'll post a picture if you haven't already decided against it. I do have a 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inch refrigerator side panel instead of 3/4 inch so that helps too. I'm not sure if I can hit the refrigerator with the cabinet door if I try intentionally. I think I can, but my point here was that the cabinet door would open past 90 degrees which is necessary for a pull out. Having the refrigerator stick out past the cabinets (standard depth ref.) has another side benefit. It's harder to hit the cabinets with the refrigerator door too. In my case my refrigerator has a stop BEFORE the cabinets. I can force it further, but it stops automatically before the cabinets. If it were counter depth it would probably be too close to the cabinets when open and might hit them. - Jim

You could do this with a fake center stile. Have both doors the same width, and attach a trim piece to the back of one side instead of having the doors open individually. This would be like double entry doors where the normally closed door has a stop so the primary door doesnt go too far into the opening. This takes a bit of getting used to because you have to open the one door first but after a bit it is second nature. We have a couple cabinets where the doors partially overlap and the right door is on the outside.

Hey, everyone! Thanks for your advice! We'll be changing the cabinets to white shakers. They definitely look like it would be a good match if we go with a lighter cabinet. I'm not sure about the floor material, but it was stained before. I've been running some looks, and I can't quite find a tile that I think looks too great here. We're considering trying to extend the floor, but we'll need to take a piece over to get it matched at a flooring store.