What’s wrong with this tile?
Brandi Adams
4 years ago
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Comments (22)
Beth H. :
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoBrandi Adams
4 years agoRelated Discussions
What’s wrong with my holly bushes?
Comments (21)Just a common old garden spider.....nothing to worry about and nothing to do with whatever may be ailing your holly (not a Japanese holly, btw). Garden spiders are good things and should be encouraged. FWIW, hollies can be cut back hard and they will backbud or produce new growth from bare stems. Your plants look perfectly healthy otherwise and with no sign of insect or disease issues so why they are so leggy and sparse now is most likely due to cultural conditions....lack of water at some point, possible cold damage at some point or issues with the root ball when planted....See MoreWhat’s wrong with this picture?
Comments (16)Yes, after flipping it, I’d definitely move the light up. I like the tile, it’s unique. Just for fun, I finger-painted your mirror black to see how it’d look: But I like the chrome ... as mentioned, it ties in with other surfaces. It’s a very nice bathroom. I do think raising the light will make a big difference in proportions feeling ‘off’. After that, I’d just live with it as is for a while and see if you want to make any changes at that point (round mirror, etc). Distance examples:...See MoreWhat’s wrong with my cast iron plant?
Comments (11)Here is what I would do: * Unpot the plant(s). * Melt a drain hole through the bottom of the pot at the sidewall. * Place a plastic or clay pot upside down in the bottom of the pot the plant is in. There should be at least 1/2" between the rim of the overturned pot and the inside of the sidewall. Cover the drainhole(s) in the overturned pot with insect screen or a piece of plastic. The cover is only to stop soil from falling through the drain holes. (See D below for a sense of how much excess water this simple trick will eliminate) * Insert a wick through the hole in the bottom of the pot. If you wish, you can melt a second hole through the bottom opposite the first; then, a single wick can be used. I use 100% rayon mop strands for the wicks. They work VERY well; so well in fact, that they allow me to water plants in the 5:1:1 mix on a schedule, which is supposed to be taboo. * When you water, water thoroughly so you wet the entire soil column. Tip the just watered pot at a 45* angle (see B above) so a drain hole with a wick through it is at the lowest point (see E above). The wick should hang at least 3" below the pot bottom until it stops draining. It should drain all or almost all of the excess water the soil holds. See the mophead in the image below (along with some of the repotting tools I use). The following sequence shows a wick set-up for pots with a single drain hole. The wick works better when the hole is through the bottom at the sidewall. I honestly did not think a cast iron plant would be fussy in their choice of soil composition. Most plants commonly grown as houseplants (other than cacti and some succulents) do not vary much in what they want insofar as a grow medium and moisture levels. They almost ALL want a medium that is evenly damp or moist with plenty of air porosity to drive root function. Where they DO vary is where the limits to what they will tolerate lie. The most commonly grown houseplants all tolerate indoor conditions. Some are known to tolerate low light or dry soil conditions better than others, but very few will tolerate the watering cycle that includes a large fraction of roots completely inundated for such long periods. A well-made 5:1:1 mix will (structurally) last much longer than media based on peat/ coir/ compost/ composted forest products, and can generally be watered almost at will without serious consequences in the form or limited root function or poor root health. The reason a 5:1:1 mix with too much fine material can't offer the same benefits as a 5:1:1 mix with an appropriate fraction of fine material is exactly the same reason that adding a bit bark and perlite to a poorly made commercial mix doesn't work. It is essential the the volume of particles larger than about 1/8" make up somewhere around 80-85% of the mix. Examples: A) If you have a jar of peat and add an equal measure of pine bark thinking it will improve aeration, it will be a failure because there is more than enough peat to fill all pore space between bark particles. B) If you have a commercial grow medium you feel is holding too much water and try to amend it with pine bark and or perlite, thinking it will improve aeration, it will also be a failure unless you add so much bark and perlite that, combined, they make up a fraction of the medium by far larger than the original soil you started with. In fact, adding pine bark and or perlite to a water-retentive medium continually DECREASES o/a air porosity until reaching "threshold proportion", where there is no longer enough fine material to fill pores between the coarse material. From that point on, adding additional coarse material significantly increases o/a aeration. Al...See MoreWhat´s wrong with my fiddle fig?
Comments (6)A new leaf popped out with edema which is fine. I don't see any symptoms of oedema, but I might have missed them or they aren't showing up in the images. Very recently, a few days ago, I´ve transferred it from soil to semi hydroponic in leca and during my inspection for development I´ve realized the reddish dots were more predominant under the leaves. I'm curious re why you chose to change from a solid medium to water. Nearly any environmental condition that puts the brakes on growth and the accompanying use of sugars, but does not limit sugar production (photosynthesis) can cause anthocyanin buildup and purple leaves. This usually clears up as the leaf matures or as cultural conditions improve.. Also there was these yellow tiny dots which I started to notice after transfering but were there before as I can see it in the older picture. As noted above, the yellowish dots are called lithocysts. Within each of the lithocysts is a crystalline structure of calcium carbonate or calcium oxylate called a cystolith. Normal to Ficus. Now, I do not have a special fertilizer for the fiddle fig, I´m using the same I use for all plants the General Hydroponics 3 part plus Diamond Nectar 0-1-1, Rapid Start 1-0.5-1 and CaliMag 1-0-0. For all I use 1 tablespoon per gallon less the Rapid Starter which I use half of a tablespoon. I´ve watered it when in soil a few times with this solution before transferring to leca and was ok. If you're happy with how your fertilizer supplementation program is going and want to stay with it, no need to change anything. I personally think it's a lot of excess outlay and effort that is going to be difficult to justify in the face of something simpler and less expensive ..... not that you should feel you need to justify anything at all. I'm just thinking about how a conversation between a hydro fertilizer salesman and me might go. Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is a soluble synthetic which contains all nutrients essential to normal growth (taken up via the root pathway) in a single package, and supplied in a ratio at which the average plant actually used the nutrients. I suggest you give that a try for a few months and see how you fare. You'd have to fight me for mine. .... also grow lights that goes on during the day and proving an extra 2h (about 14h of light), humidity relatively high (varies between 70% something to 90%). I don´t see any major red flags. The plant should show its appreciation for the added light and high humidity. Good work. Can you help figuring this out and if a nutrient deficiency how can I use the fertilizers that I do have in a more balanced way. If you're reluctant to try the Foliage-Pro, let me know and I'll dig into it and figure out what should work. I also use tap water ..... and I always filter it first and I usually have the water filtered a day before so there´s no chlorine on it. Not that it matters a whole lot, but few municipalities use chlorine gas any more to chlorinate. Other sources of chlorine have half lives measured in weeks, so leaving water out actually concentrates the amount of chlorine as the water evaporates and leaves the chemicals behind. Too, water from the cold water tap holds as much oxygen as it will likely ever have, straight from the tap. Free oxygen gasses off with time (overnight) and as the temperature rises. The dissolved oxygen would be considered a resource beneficial to root function. Sorry, I forgot you have the tree in water. Strike what I said about dissolved oxygen as it applies to your tree. I'll leave the info though, because it might be valuable to you or others who might read this post. Al...See MoreBeth H. :
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoBrandi Adams
4 years agoBeth H. :
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoSJ McCarthy
4 years agoBrandi Adams
4 years agocpartist
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoHU-527663426
4 years agomillworkman
4 years agoBrandi Adams
4 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
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4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoBrandi Adams
4 years agoBrandi Adams
4 years agoBeth H. :
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoCreative Tile Eastern CT
4 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
4 years agokudzu9
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4 years agolast modified: 4 years agocatbuilder
4 years ago
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