Engineered Hardwood, Luxury Vinyl Plank, or Luxury Vinyl Tile/Stone?
shjones0729
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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kculbers
2 years agoSJ McCarthy
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Luxury vinyl planks in foyer adjacent to real hardwoods?
Comments (42)Hi. I did something like this in my house. I have a split level. I put Biscayne Oak from Coretec down next to oak stairs. The vinyl extends out down the hallway and into a bathroom and family room. This whole level of the house is the same. It looked the best color wise next to the oak stairs. I put the vinyl over where the tile is as there are 2 layers of tile and demo for that was costly. I am thinking to do the same floor in the upstairs hallway and kitchen, which again is all hardwood floors same color as the stairs. I am nervous to do this in the kitchen and upstairs hallway, but the bathrooms all have the coretech vinyl floor because again 2 layers of tile, and cost. I dont think it looks bad with what you want to do. I will say this, cleaning these coretec floors is heaven :) so easy...See MoreEngineered hardwood or Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP)?
Comments (65)Another thing to consider when looking at the engineered floors is plank length. I just realized why I didn't like some of the photos I saw ... they had too many short pieces which gives the floor a choppy look and to me, it looks too much like a tile effect. The Uptown Floors suggested above sound great, and I will look at them more closely, but they still have "shorter" board (12" to 8 ft). I am looking at another company with board lengths from 3 ft to 12 ft. Those longer boards make a big difference in the overall look in a larger open floor plan. The longer boards do cost more, so I need to do some more comparisons and value of spending more for a more pleasing look. Their other specs are mostly similar. I think floors are going to be my hardest decision!...See MoreEngineered Hardwood vs Luxury Vinyl Planks with dogs
Comments (58)Thought I would also update this thread since it popped back up. We moved into our new build 2 months ago and ended up choosing engineered wood for most of the house, except the mudroom, laundry room and their connecting long back hallway, which got tile. I can close this area off and the dogs stay here if we are gone for several hours. Their food and water is also kept in the laundry room. The floors are Duchateau - Riverstone collection - Sava color. So far they have not shown any scratches from the dogs making the crazy run to the front door when they hear the doorbell and/or fedex! The floors have a rustic look and slight texture that will make it easier to hide any scratches and dents....See MoreHardwood to luxury vinyl plank transition
Comments (5)Sorry but the LVP/LVT or even SPC/WPC product needs REALLY FLAT! Oh...no. The wobbly subfloor = DEATH to vinyl click ANYTHING. Why? Because the click edges are VERY THIN. Any bit of height variation will cause EXTREME stress on the click edges. Any stress on those thin, brittle, finicky, nasty edges and you LOSE the floor's integrity. And you lose warranty. And....and....and. I'm in Vancouver BC, so the extra $5K for subfloor work (by pulling the old floor, etc) doesn't even phase me. Cost of labour in Canada runs (roughly) $50/hour in the building industry. The sheet plywood is STAGGERING right now. Unless you purchase DIRECT from a mill (in small town Canada, that's ENTIRELY possible) you are looking at $3/sf for plywood alone. A tile install normally runs (all-in...tile+labour+materials) $18/sf and up...with prep being the extra (which is why he's saying DOUBLE the cost). Sorry but the 'lay it right over' the old wobbly floor is NOT correct. Everyone will tell you, "You can float it over anything," but they FAIL to mention the old floor MUST BE LEVELED and with a flatness rating that is ACCEPTABLE to the flooring manufacturer. I'd be happier with a STURDY laminate (except this is in a wet area) or an engineered hardwood (watch out for the clash) over vinyl being floated over wonky. Vinyl CANNOT HANDLE the floor height variances. The edges are too fragile, too brittle and too easily damaged just by standing on them over that wonkiness. Do the work. Pay the price and get the correct floor. If not, then just throw down any old 'King of Floors $0.99/sf vinyl' and be happy if you get 10 years out of it. You will replace it by then anyway, and you can pay for the subfloor work at that time...if you need to cap your costs today....but you WILL pay for it tomorrow. It's your call....See MoreOne Devoted Dame
2 years agoKen Fisher
2 years agoOak & Broad
2 years agocpartist
2 years agoOne Devoted Dame
2 years agoJackson Dean
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
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SJ McCarthy