You will not be able to shop this quote around. Dupont only sells Zodiaq to authorized fabricators that it trains and certifies. Therefore, there will be an extremely limited pool who could even supply and fabricate your desired top. You will need to find out who those fabricators are and merely supply them with a diagram of the desired counter with the depths indicated as well as the edging, appliance locations, and the sink used with the reveal you want. Standard counter depth is 25.5 not 26.5, so if that is what you want, you need to emphasise the fact that it's NOT a mis-print. Your square footage is also drastically off if you want this as a single piece. You'll need to calculate the entire piece as a giant rectangle, which means the square footage that needs to be cut from the slab is 53 square feet, or roughly double what you are indicating. Also, to do what you want with the farm sink and corer in one piece, every fabricator that I have ever dealt with would require a signed waiver stating that they will not be responsible if the counter breaks in transport and that you will pay for an entire new slab to be fabricated should that occur. Instead, I'd opt for a seam to either side at the rear of the farm sink so that small skinny piece wouldn't break, as well as a seam at the L. Seams in quartz are extremely inconspicuous and will not pose the same "matching" issue that you can have with granite. Here's an example of a one page document that is clear about what you want and expect. No use in discussing the visibility of seams on a quote request. That's an in person judgement call for you to make after you view their work.

ksc36/Joseph Corbett, LLC: I read the instructions and if you read it carefully, the wood block method is an alternative to use only if the clips are too long for the application ; in other words, if the clips would extend past, and sit on the cabinet side walls and keep the counter top from sitting on the cabinets. I don't think this would normally be an issue when installing a 30" sink into a 36" cabinet - both typical, standard sizes. I don't read it as an alternative technique to be used at the discretion of the installer in place of the specified technique using the Blanco instructions and hardware. In my opinion (which I have developed during my ordeal), installers will almost always use wood and screws instead of anchors and hardware because it is simply faster and easier with less chance of making a mistake - plus there's no immediate downside. The customer, unless he is watching closely and knows what he is looking at, will never know what the installer did .................until possibly months or years later. On the other hand, using the anchors requires that the counter top be turned over (bottom up) which would probably require a third installer. The installers that did my counter tops consisted of 1 installer and 1 helper - they were in my house about 2 hours. They said that they had 4 counter top installations to do and they had to be done that day. I don't know how these guys are paid but I suspect that they are paid by the job and the number of jobs they sign up for or are assigned - speed is definitely a factor in their pay. Incidentally, the men that did my installation were also upset at the mistakes in the manufacturing of my counter top requiring them to make field adjustments which ultimately resulted in my counter top not being flat and the "lippage". I tried to get their names so that I could subpoena them to small claims court but M.R.Stone, LLC would not provide their contact information.

julienne - I love, love, love the Prolific. The ledges are as easy to clean as any smooth side. That's because the ledges are not anywhere near a 90 degree angle. One wipe cleans the side and one of the ledges, all at the same time. The only 90degree corners are between the sides, bottom and ledged sides of the sink. Every so often they need a bit of extra attention, but the sink is easy to keep clean. I do like the two trays, they're always in the sink. I keep them on the lowest ledge to the right and left of the sink. I move one tray up to the middle ledge to handwash pots and pans. The trays can easily be cleaned with a dishwashing brush that fits between the openings. They trays can be put in the DW for cleaning as well. The bowl also stays in the sink at all times. Dishes that need a bit of rinsing before going into the DW stay in there for a bit. I move the bowl up to the top ledge for handwashing glassware and delicate items. I don't use the colander on a daily basis andI remove it after use. I use the cutting board that came with the Prolific to serve cheese and fruit and such, as I prefer using my huge Ikea Lamplig cutting board that fits over the whole depth of the sink. So perfect for prepping. I place a composite cuttingboard over the Lamplig for chopping onions and garlic. For cutting up meat, I use my old beech cutting board that DH cut at an angle so that it fits into the top ledge. This way, raw juices drip into the sink. Did I say already that I LOVE the Prolific?

The side splash is 3 cm thick and appears to be of a different slab/year (the veining is less white and less crisp/no small veins). Can it be milled thinner? Every inch counts in this kitchen. Black caulk might look better, am concerned about the fridge panel getting damaged at this point. And the bead of caulk doesn’t extend the inch past the cabinets/sits on the white cabinet. Photo of the other side for context. I am paying nearly $3000 for a 8x9” galley. MSI marquina midnight. We thought we might tile the backsplash eventually so asked for scribed to the wall as though we’d do no backsplash to give us the most options. Also, MSI minimum radius is 3/8.” Sink is still a little offset from cutout, silicone seeping out, cut areas a bit duller finish than gloss areas).