Help finishing garden path/hardscaping
biondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
4 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
4 years agobiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Formal House, Country Setting - which walkway hardscaping materia
Comments (41)Thanks for checking in Karin. Hoyess front door is better proportioned. But you make a good point about perhaps having a front patio instead of just a landing. As you can see from following photo, the landing is closed off on the side. I did a half-hearted try to see if I could get matching brick, and was told it came from Canada and is not stocked locally. If I was going to do something like that I would most likely have to get more brick. Might still be possible to get some if I looked harder, or inquired in Canada which is not that far. Still just mulling over ideas . . . RaeHelen's front walkway is GREAT! Imaginative approach and so nice and wide and welcoming. Adamante, not quite sure what your point is...? I know it's a long post to read all the way through, but previous owner ran out of money, hence no landscaping. He went bankrupt and we bought this house for cheap from the bank. Traded in a tiny, old tract home in San Jose,CA and got money back when we bought this. Of course I now live in the middle of nowhere, not near any good jobs but I'm sure happy with the trade. DH does not drive a lexus (your point??) but a beat up 98 Dodge truck with dents in it. I'm actually a little embarassed by the place, I bought it for the beautiful property - land, woods, and pond. Here's the landing from the other angle, showing how it's bricked off....See MoreHmm...Help w/ unique design issues restrictions - All Hardscape
Comments (14)Nice to see someone resourceful and thrifty challenging themselves with such a fun project! Definitely for a small space it's a good idea to keep materials consistent to avoid a busy look and hence make it look smaller. THose smaller penny pavers (1'x1') are about a dollar each and with a maximum of 168 sq. ft. it only takes up half your budget if you covered the entire yard! With only two small areas to pave, you could build a simple 2 x 2 frame to hold the pavers inside at each location and another line leading to and from them. If HD doesn't deliver use that $40 to have someone delivery it for you. Cedar mulch is ok, cheap, lightweight and smells great! Use the natural colour or have fun with the colours (red, green, yellow, brown and even black). If cash is real tight I believe Japanese gardens often use pine needles for paths. You could collect that for free if there are pine trees in your neighbourhood. Another edging idea is using the cut ends of small logs. People are throwing out recently chopped trees and leaving cut up pieces on the curb. Bury a bunch of those leaving just a few inches and they would lend an Asian feel to it as well. Bigger pieces could be used to make coffee table legs if you throw an old door on top. You can make hanging tea lights with wire and jam jars. Use screws to fix your chairs instead of nails that is if you have a drill otherwise nails will do fine too. Have you thought about painting the chairs a bright colour if they're too far gone? How about hanging an old mirror on the fence for depth and interest? Maybe frame it with an old window? Anyway that's my 2 cents worth....See MoreHardscaping a woodland garden
Comments (7)I had a similar situation. Start by defining the paths just to see how you like them. If you can get raw wood chips from a tree company that is a cheap (often free) way to do it; grass clippings are also a good temporary path and they will naturally decompose within a year. Move and shape the course and width of the path until you like it. Then you can decide if you want something like stone. I also picked up fallen trees and branches and used them to create borders for the path in some area. Small and medium stones also can outline certain areas of the path. Once you create your rooms, you can use different mulch inside the rooms (like pinestraw or pine bark, which is darker in color than raw chips). I personally like to go for a natural effect in the woodland and let nature give me some of my ideas for how a path wanders or is outlined. You definitely want some curves so that there is more interest to following the path (what's around the corner?). And a bench tucked into a spot to allow a rest and an inspection of some interesting small plants or mossy rocks is always nice....See MoreHelp with hardscape/landscaping
Comments (10)I'm amending my earlier statement where I meant to say we COULDN'T know how much water was going to come off of the drive, instead "we could." It was a typo. As yourself, Kmpcfp, if you WANT a dry stream bed, or if you're incorporating it because you think it is the solution. If undersized, they can be "cute" in a mini-golf sort of way. If you expect it to look natural, it should be in scale with the surroundings. Keep in mind that those in the example pictures are on relatively flat ground. If the dry stream bed is expected to carry a lot of water and it's on a slope, it's going to require bigger and beefier rocks if they're going to stay in place. Many times these are built undersized by someone who doesn't have experience with arranging things to look natural and they end up looking like a truck dumped some gravel and it hasn't been cleaned up yet. I don't know what you can do, but be careful not to create that type of arrangement. If you don't necessarily want a dry stream bed (or a pile of rocks in the yard) consider that a tough groundcover is capable of keeping the soil from eroding, once it is established. These comments are predicated on my thinking that I understand your sketch. You can let me know If I've got anything wrong. First, I would consider that the drainage path (orange arrow) should be pushed closer to the drive and further from the house ... in the vicinity of the orange arrow. The high point (H.P. ... which is the high point of the drainage swale) would be in line with access to the door, as it would be the flattest part of the drainage path. (The blue arrows are the general direction of water flow at the front of the house.) I would expand the paved access to the house to be the full width of the first section of the porch (near the door ... from the door to the first post). Or it's going to look skimpy for your house. Alternatively, it could be the full width of the porch, more or less like it is now. Where you are reducing paving, I would get rid of the funky, slanted angles that you are proposing for paving edges and connections, and replace them with straight lines and radius curves. Otherwise, the finished project is going to look like it is designed by someone without experience....See MoreYardvaark
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agobiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley) thanked Yardvaarkken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
4 years agobiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley) thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5mad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
4 years agobiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley) thanked mad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)biondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
4 years agoEmbothrium
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agobiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley) thanked Embothriummad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
4 years agobiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley) thanked mad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)biondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
4 years agoEmbothrium
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agobiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley) thanked Embothriumbiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoYardvaark
4 years agobiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agomad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
4 years agobiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley) thanked mad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)Embothrium
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agobiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley) thanked Embothriumbiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
4 years agobiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
4 years agobiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
4 years agoYardvaark
4 years ago
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