Sorry, with the term thickness I meant if (nails sticking out + drip edge deformation + nails securing underlayment + drip edge crown ) build up to a total of more than 1/8"Â The drip edge metal itself is very thin. Actually hereÂs a picture that I took when I was shingling the roof 2 years ago. One more thing I remember now: I think I was applying a bead of caulk (tar) between the drip edge and the underlayment as well as a bead of caulk between the underlayment and the shingles at the rake edge. While that may add some resistance to water penetration it may have actually added thickness and made the edge of the shingles lift. In the picture, you can see the drip edge and you can see the last shingle lifting up a bit (unfortunately that scrap piece of 2x4 is covering up some of the view). The one thing I can see now is that I nailed the drip edge off center (I guess I did not want to put a nail hole close to the edge?) perhaps that allowed the edge of the drip to stay a little higher. If I ever do this egain IÂll make sure I put lots of nails in the center to hold the drip edge down and make sure I drive them well down. Or perhaps IÂd install the last rafter a little lower to give the last 12" of the roof deck an outwards slope?

I made the post to learn which has been limited to speculation, not experience. For those of us in the East, what 150 million, traffic suggest more, vinyl is very popular and is used in new construction. One neighbor is considering replacing his 30 year old vinyl with Hardie, just for a change... . I've lived in NJ longer than that and have never experience hail damage... Colorado? hail is a concern, not here. Still I don't like the touch of vinyl and from what I have found in other searches is the insulation applied as part of the manufacturing process does indeed make the siding much firmer to the touch, straighter and flatter. I have not yet gotten any quotes, but was told insulated vinyl is about 40% less, and due at least in part to requiring less than 1/2 the man hours to install Hardie an none of the hazardous to saw material (cement board) precautions. I am getting quotes on covering my trim with vinyl for either vinyl or Hardie siding. I'm also considering replacing my gutters and down spouts with the 6" size to mostly illuminate the the need to clean leaves out of the gutters. I've been doing that for over 25 years and am just too old to get the second story gutters, especially the one at right angle to a very steep garage roof, not a roof to walk around on. Again, I have a lot of still good cedar clapboard siding and estimate I need to do only two sides of the house in Hardie (say).. that cuts the cost more than in half as I also plan to do the 1 story garage walls myself. It is the vertical board and baton I believe it is called. I may just pull it all off and use Plywood with the same vertical pattern. .. absent all the joints and cracks. Edit: I see another concern was raised while I was bloviating above. The process that was described to me, I think both for cement board and vinyl, insulated or not: remove the existing siding, install a new vapor barrier. I believe both vinyl and and Hardie is then installed using a hanger type .. screwing to studs and the like. This says to me as far as vapor is concerned, neither protects against vapor from inside that gets through the interior vapor barrier and the vapor barrier installed over the sheathing - plywood in my case. As the insulation on the vinyle is nothing more than something filling the lap spaces, just as Hardie does because of its thickness and stiffness. However, the insulation has a much higher R value than does the Hardie, which I'll be is close to zero. Cement and even wood are poor insulators.

Here's the front porch with the new porch light:My brother Kevin bought the red mailbox in Palm Springs the last time we were there - it is difficult to find interesting mailboxes, but I think this one is okay. The porch light is new, and I bought it and installed it temporarily before the painters started because I wanted to get it fitted in first. It is from Kuna, but I bought it at Lowe's, and it was the first one (and only one) I found that has LED lamping and motion detection with a modern design that I found acceptable. It's not the greatest or most interesting design, but I am okay with it, and it is infinitely better than what we had before (see photo way above). This sconce does much more, however, and I have decided that I like the added features. First, it has an additional security camera that only starts recording when someone approaches the door, and it makes a doorbell sound outside as well as on my phone to let me know that someone is at the door. I also see the photo/video of the person on my phone. The other two security camera that we have are hardwired to a screen just inside the door, and these cameras start recording when a moth flies by or when a cat walks on our driveway, and so they are a bit too sensitive, but I think I might be able to adjust that. The old security cameras are not equipped with WiFi (I didn't have a Smartphone when we got them), but the video screen does have a memory stick that saves the videos, although we have to take it out and download whatever we want to keep. The video screen also has an intercom so that I can talk to someone at the door if I want to, whereas the light does not. We used to have a clear window in our old door, but when we got the new door, we had to get the security cameras so that we could see who was on the front porch without opening the door. We've not had any Jehova's Witnesses visit us since we put up the security cameras. I don't like the look of the security cameras, but I am pretty much stuck with them.

The OP's cornice return takes the poor man's cornice return one step further from a classical return by using an aluminum gutter instead of a molding. That forces the gutter at the return to protrude from the rake, an odd configuration since the gutter has no function at that location. I guess it could be called a "gutter return". The old solution was to have half round gutters suspended from the eave by brackets and the gutters did not return at corners. How the corner boards meet the cornice returns will be an important detail. I would not trust your architects with this detail. Here is a corrected elevation without distracting material patterns and simple strong round Tuscan columns. If the big ideas are well executed, the little ones will follow. Now if you could rotate this design on your own computer... That would allow you to see how the hipped roof falls away as you approach the house.