You have a BIG problem with the width of the room - 84" is just not enough to have a door into the room and fixtures down both 96" walls. To move around comfortably - get out of tub or shower, stand up from the toilet, turn around from the sink - you really need to have at least 32 -36". (Realistically, not a code bare minimum which makes you feel like you are trapped in the space) 32" door way with basic trim will take up 36-37". That only leaves you with 47 inches to play with (assuming you are up for moving the door AND window.) The narrowest tub will be about 30". Now you only 17" on the opposite wall from door to wall for sink & toilet. You might sneak a narrow sink vanity in but not the standard depth 22 " and a 17" is very very iffy -doubt you would find one. Toilets come out from the wall 28". Than that would only leave 26" to the tub or shower. Impossible. Can NOT be done. Getting a 36 x 36 shower in there is impossible. That 84" wall - 37" door &trim = 47" left - 36" shower = 11 inches left = NO sink and NO toilet (they would be opposite the shower & tub) BTW 36" is the interior size on a shower. You might still have to allow for the framing on the shower side next to the tub - easily cost you 4 1/2".....a 55" tub? Definitely hard to find. Even if you come down a 96" wall with a shower and short tub and then across the 84" wall (with window) with the end of the tub, the toilet and sink, you still DO NOT have enough space. 84" - 30" tub end = 54" - 30" toilet (that is what is allowed from side to side so there is shoulder room - 24 inches. 24" is not enough to get into the sink without more shoulder space. Way way cramped. Going tub 30" then 24" sink (pedestal?) and then 30" for toilet space.......possible but that means moving the window somewhere else. You can not fit all that stuff in that room - it is impossible. To do what you want (36" x 36 shower, 5' tub, vanity & toilet on opposite wall) you would need a room that is minimum 95" -96" wide (not 84) and 101 1/2" (not 96) Now there might be way....and triple the cost because of semi-custom or specialty stuff (1) Move the door so from one 96" wall it is 28" to the door and from the other 96" wall it is 19" to the door (2) Move the window (do not put it in a shower - been there dealt with that and all the tile, mortar and caulking in the world won't keep water from leaking into the wall and window trim.) The window will end up over the end of the tub. (3) On the 96" wall that is 28" from the doorway it goes down the side from the door wall like this: 30" for toilet 66" long soaking tub (faucets on tub rim or wall) Don't waste space with a drop in that needs tile around its top edges - go with one that is stand-alone (double-ended clawfootish type maybe http://www.signaturehardware.com/67-aiden-cast-iron-dual-tub-on-beveled-plinth.html If you really want to go wild, Kohler makes whirlpool tubs that are 60x30 to 60 x 32 to 66x 32 http://www.us.kohler.com/us/browse/bathroom-bathing/_/N-255vZ4rZ4sZ5hZ5iZ1z141pw Some are apron front and others are drop in but you just frame under the lip and don't lose any space with tiling around the tub edges. (4) on the 96" wall that is 19" from the doorway it goes down the side from the door like this * 60" long 18" -19" deep vanity (yeah they make them - here is an example http://www.signaturehardware.com/bathroom/bathroom-vanities/59-dumont-double-basin-vanity-cabinet-wenge.html That is a double basin. They are called "Narrow vanities" That leaves 36" on that wall down to the 84" far wall. From the corner of that 96" wall and 84" back wall there is 51-52 inches to the tub across the 4" outside back wall * Here is where the custom built shower goes. It will 36 x 50/51 if you glass it in or 36 x 47 1/2 if the end next to the tub needs a supporting wall OR the standard 36x4 shower Now 36 x 50-52 is not standard. If you go to a standard 36 x48 tile ready base, you can get a standard 36 x 48 glass enclosure. Here is the base pan that you then tile http://www.tileredi.com/single-curb-shower-pan-with-center-drain-36x48-p3648cpvc and here is the enclosure http://www.build.com/vigo-vg605148/s741109?uid=1350617&gclid=COWgxsu5hcwCFYM2aQodATkBPQ&source=gg-gba-pla_1350617____49842552319&s_kwcid=AL!4215!3!49842552319!!!g!79246577688! (Plenty of room to get in the shower is 48" you vanity is 18 -19 and the shower door on the far left is 22 7/8. Vanity will not be in the way of the door opening. The shower 36 x 50-52 can have a door of 30 -32" but that means custom. ) Going with the standard 36 x48 leaves up to 36 inches to do a drop in tub and have a bit of tile show around it on top If you don't want the glass - way much windex - you could use the shower curtain ring like on clawfoot tubs that mounts on the long side of the tub. Maybe this kind of thing? http://www.signaturehardware.com/bathroom/shower/clawfoot-tub-shower-enclosures/side-mount-add-a-shower-kit-with-hand-shower-and-ring.html or this one http://www.signaturebath.com/shower-rods/122x-corner-shower-rods.html which - per its specs - can be cut down so it will be 36 x 48 Tileredi makes shower bases for all ready for tiling. Most big box stores have them. Another brand is KBRS - and while they have standard sizes, they will custom make them if you need something odd. (Very nice people to work with) This is way more work - moving a door and an exterior window but you get * 66" soaking tub or whirlpool * 36 x 50-52 " shower or 36 x 48 shower * 60" double vanity With all those specialty things, if you can steal 13" from a room parallel to the 96" walls, you would save money and be able to fit the 36 shower followed by 55" clawfootish type on one side and a 66" vanity on the other with the toilet at the end. Might be a lot cheaper as you could use standard off the shelf stuff instead of specialty things if you could move the wall if you can steal the space. You would only have to move the door and not the window.

Thank you all for your feedback and suggestions. Sorry it took us a while to respond, it takes a weekend for us to have enough hands to work on this and take care of a very active kid. We’re long-time lurkers here, so the FAQs are familiar and we used them, and some of the other internet lists of dimensions, in our planning. Benjesbride – thanks for posting the layouts; I’d run out of space by the time I’d pasted in that huge description and gardenweb would only let me include links. I’m reposting the diagrams somewhere more useful, and will add a few more in a moment. Buehl – yeah, we agree that less than 12” next to the range is too tight, which is why we’re here :). I went back and relabeled the diagrams to ensure we had the right measurements. Turns out we had missed 2 extra inches in width (it’s 160 not 158 – which makes sense as it’s a rounder #) – doesn’t help the range situation, but will help in other ways. I’ve also labeled everything down to the other end of the room, as I hadn’t expected someone (sena01) actually trying to render the whole layout for us. It’s a big room, fitting 60” of range shouldn’t be this hard, but really what we want is 96” of range+counter (18+60+18), and that’s trickier. Debbie B. – we are having fun with the space, and hope to have fun in the space. I’m sure there’ll be another kid down the road, and they’ll be expected to participate in cooking. My wife was cooking early, so it’s family tradition. I suspect, however, we’ll have them help from outside the work aisle. Funkycamper – buffet/butlery is the area left of the fireplace, 15-24” depth with the extra sink in pictures 1 & 2. Sena01 – thank you for all your thoughts on our layouts, and your recommendations. We hadn’t thought of switching the pantry door and it may be worth doing. It’ll depend a lot on whether we put cabinets on that wall (12” or 15”, as you’ll see in a moment we think there’s enough room). The closet isn’t quite wide enough to walk into so if we put cabinets there it probably makes more sense to have 2 shallow storage spaces rather than one extra-deep one. If we don’t put cabinets there, flipping it around makes a lot of sense (though visually it creates a row of doors). I’d also tried for a while to figure out if I could use its space for the fridge. I like the idea of the corner-sink. My biggest concern is the proximity of the range to the windows on either side (3”). I’d read that there may be limits on how close a range can be – any ideas? I notice you have relatively wide aisles in the layout, and I think there’s actually more width to the room that we could play with in your design. We tried it out one night this week and are entirely comfortable with a 41” work aisle. The passthrough aisle seems OK at 41, provided there’s no fridge on that wall. Continued in next post...

How long are your arms? That latest island still looks too deep for most people - I suspect it's not much better than the 8'x7' you originally had. For the majority of people, 60" (5') is the maximum depth that can easily be cleaned. You have to be able to easily reach the middle of the island to be able to wipe it down. Based on your comments about not cooking and how entertaining is more important - I have to ask, is this a "show" kitchen rather than a "working" kitchen? It's not a bad thing, it's just that most of the comments you are receiving are based on making a kitchen functional for cooking, etc. If you rarely cook, then function probably isn't that important to you. Again, that's not bad, it's what works for you and your family. The size of the island is still a concern for cleaning, though. One comment - eating at a table is much more comfortable and more conducive to family bonding/conversation than sitting at a counter like in a diner-style restaurant. The latest island you posted has seating lined up "like ducks in a row" and is more for strangers eating side-by-side without having to look at each other - the polar opposite of what you should be aiming for. Something else to think about - if you plan to put your Cleanup Zone in the island, do you really want to be staring at dirty dishes while trying to eat dinner? Cleanup Zones in the island put your dirty dishes front & center for all to see...but it's better than putting your Cooking Zone in the island (unless you have a very good overhead hood and a lot of workspace around the cooking surface.)

Is that a powder room or pantry in the top right corner? You can probably fit this plan (m/l) without changing the entries, but I think it's an interesting option. At 11'7", the aisle between peninsula and fridge could be almost 48" (with a CD fridge). High chairs (if you still use those) could go on the short sides of the table, then kids could move to the bench as they grow. Open DW door would block access to upper cabs to the left, so dishes would be stored to the right of the sink. I guessed at some measurements, and the first drawing is not to scale: ETA, two entry option. Prep space is smaller, but again, not to scale: