Where to spend $$$ - finish basement or upgrades to main floor
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4 years ago
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Basement or main floor laundry room?
Comments (5)One other issue I wanted to point out to you is to consider the possible effect of flooding that might occur if your laundry room is on the main floor and the washer should break down. Though it should not happen, we have had a flood from our laundry room three separate times from three separate issues, 2 which caused substantial damage to the flooring. Our laundry is in the basement and we have engineered laminate flooring. The first flood caused water to go under the floor and we had to tear it up. We thought the problem was rectified, so we put the same floor down again. One year late we had another flood from the washing machine which again went under the flooring and we had to tear the flooring up again to dry out. Needless to say, that type of flooring did not go back down again. While we were deciding what type of flooring to put in the basement, the pump on the washer went and caused some more flooding, except not so bad this time. So even though lots of people never have any issues with possible flooding from the washer, there is always a slight possibility of it happening and it might be something to consider when thinking of where to place your laundry room. Good luck with whatever you decide....See MoreBuilding in Maine - basement, slab, or crawlspace?
Comments (27)"Basements Vs slabs", Practically all basements have slabs and most of them have plumbing underneath, same for 99.99% of commercial buildings. Not building a slab (or basement) for plumbing fears is typical for DIY types unfamiliar with concrete work. Designed and built right, there should be no reason to tear up the concrete in one's lifetime. If it does need to be redone, it's still light construction and not a problem for professional contractors. Building a basement or crawlspace below variable water tables can be appropriate if there is enough topography to daylight the drainage. Relying on pumps is a recipe for eventual failure. The wetter the site, the bigger the concern. Daylighted drainage that works by gravity, should be designed well, with plenty of clean gravel, silt protection and cleanouts. If your builder or grader shows up with corrugated, single wall PE, better call in an experienced civil engineer. It sounds like your lot is ideal for a stemwall slab, basically a crawlspace filled with compacted fill or better yet clean gravel and topped with a slab. This elevates the slab and provides gravity proven drainage below. Worthy's FPSF suggestion is also worth a look if your lot is really that flat. Slabs have better building science fundamentals being a well defined boundary (drainage, air barrier, insulation) between the elements and living space. Crawls are more confused. Vented crawlspaces in humid climates (east of MS) should be illegal, and if you decide to go unvented, ensure the entire crawl floor slopes to a daylighted drain. With a good design team, forced-air ductwork does not have to go in a basement, crawlspace or attic....See MoreBasement Flooring - Should it match hardwood on main level?
Comments (15)Sigh...sounds like you have someone who isn't willing to jack out 1200sf of tile (back breaking but do able) and then grind down the thinset and then fill the low areas (aka 'subfloor prep). Of course the COST is something most homeowners don't like to see on a 'job cost' proposal. Many a contractor has lost a job because s/he quoted the cost of the BEST PRACTICES option. So the installers have gotten smart and started quoting 'low ball' work. This is just to get them the job (so they can feed their families). But what that means is they are forced into the 'not great' practices. I always recommend the homeowners get a full quote for the job. That includes flooring REMOVAL and SUBFLOOR PREP (two different costs) and then the installation costs (a third cost). If they are purchasing the materials then material costs are another cost to be added. To jack out tile = $2-$3/sf. The subfloor prep can be another $2-3/sf (these quotes will always be a 'range' of cost because the installer won't know the amount of TIME it takes to do the work...some tile is SUPER STUBBORN and other tile pops off like Pezz candies. With a situation like yours, that would have added as much as $5/sf = $6,000 MORE than what you have already been quoted (I'm assuming some things here). My question to you is: would you have hired the person if they had quoted you $6K more than what you were offered? Now onto what is usually the best option: Remove the tile and prepare the subfloor for the new porcelain tile. Please ask your installer to draw up a NEW quote for those two jobs to be ADDED to your job and ask for a new time line estimate (could be 2 days or it could be 5 days...we don't know). And ask him/her if s/he has the ability (in their schedule) to revamp your job to suit the new requirements = remove tile, prep subfloor, install new porcelain tile. In other words ask for a new quote using 'Best practices' which include removing old tile and subfloor prep. You will want to see their reaction to this. They will either jump at the chance to earn another $5-$6K or they will scowl at all the 'work' ahead of them....See MoreWill having a door to finished basement help AC keep 1st floor cool?
Comments (17)Not an attic fan. The fan that runs when the furnace or AC is running, it can be set to auto or on, is currently on so it pulls up basement air even when AC isn't active. Hubby says all the vents in the basement are closed (there are several vents on each floor). It is still about 20 degrees cooler down there. The stairwell is in center of house and the main floor AC'd air just sinks. Zoning is next. Already foamed the attic. Windows are very poorly oriented so there is no cross flow in the house for overnight cooling. Neither the north or south side have any windows at all, and no space for window fans because screen is on inside of louvred windows. Adding windows is on the to-do list. Black shingles will be switched out for more reflective ones. As I mentioned, I have had three professionals (who could try to sell me a new AC instead) say that I should add a door. So that is the immediate step with the others to follow. Thanks everyone!...See MoreUser
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