We actually used an all purpose floor cleaner and a shop broom. Our floor had a TON of joint compound on it and the shop broom really helped scrub it off. If your cement is flaking, you'll just want to sweep it all up as much as possible and then mop and let dry. We had some big holes in our floor and lots of little holes from the carpet tack strips as well. We used the Henry floor primer and put it on with a paint roller and it did the trick just fine. I think you'll be fine!! I wouldn't think your cement would go to powder unless you used too harsh of a chemical on it. Good luck to you! I love how our floor looks!! It was so worth the prep!

I am planning to install linoleum (not vinyl) in my kitchen, and have heard various recommendations regarding the benefits of installing either the cabinets first or the floor first. It is a newly built kitchen on wood plank floor (I think that is what it is called) about 12' x 18' with a small island in the middle. Are there any experts out there who could advise me?

Ours were also like Pooh's. Install, sanded, stained, and two top coats. Then cabs went in the kitchen and DR. (We installed new unfinished wood floors in entry, FR, LR, DR, mudroom, and kitchen as part of a whole house reno.) Very last item before we moved in was the last top coat. I did cover the floors with Ram board (like thin cardboard on a roll, but water resistant) after the two top coats. The inspector, carpenters installing a house full of trim and doors, electrician, cab maker, wood floor company, painting company doing trim and doors,and plumber were all impressed with the board. All those guys and tools tromping in and out over months did zero damage to the floors.

You had a THICK engineered hardwood before installed directly over the plywood substrate. Now you have a THIN 6.5mm vinyl floor (cork attached). But you have had to add cement board over that subfloor because you needed a floor height raise to get the doors and trim to work. Your old engineered was NOT sitting on cement board (which is not structural and would need WORK....patching...sanding...etc). So the comparison between one floor and the other isn't fair...there have been plenty of changes. Subfloor preparation is separate from installation labor. It can and SHOULD cost $1 - $5/sf for subfloor preparation (not including the cement board). How much was installed? Are there transition strips between doorways? How much space was left at the walls? A bit more information would help. And normally you do not glue down a floating vinyl floor. This particular one has NO INSTRUCTIONS for adhesive. That's a very TELLING sign. If the planks have cork backing, then normally are NOT glued. Your best bet is to either live with it or pull all of it and have all the prep done and then relay it. But be aware that you will lose as much as 25% - 50% of your planks because the click edge will break.