We did LVT as well, but after about a year are noticing some issues. Namely some high traffic areas are end-buckling, and some areas around multiple wall intersections are gapping. We're okay with it overall since hardwood likely would have done the same, but it seems like with the floating floor (which ours is), that there's been some shifting around as the house dries and cures this first year. A little sad, but they've held up amazingly well with the pets and fact that we track all kinds of dirt into the house. Some scratches (we're pretty hard on floors), but the DH husband reminds me it would be WAY worse if it was real hardwood. Most people can't tell the difference to be honest.

Hi there! While we are not located in Detroit, I think we may be able to shed some light on a few of your questions... Humidity in hardwood flooring is not something to mess around with. Whatever you chose, solid or engineered, be sure it is properly acclimated in your home. A local dealer/contractor with NWFA ties should be able to make adjustments for the time of year that it is being installed. But, do not be surprised if you still see movement in the dryer months... if it is installed right the gaps created by a dry winter will close right up as summer comes around. Engineered floors will usually have better dimensional stability in a 5 inch plank. But, that's not to say that solid wouldn't preform. And, solid flooring will give you a structural improvement value on your home that you will not get from an engineered floor. Trust your contractor. Local contractors should be taking humidity readings of the floor and be prepared to give you a good answer to this question based on your weather conditions. I wouldn't want to speculate, as we are not based in Detroit. Five inch boards are much more widely available these days than they were just a few short years ago. But, finding that combination of species, colors, plank size, etc., is where using an informed flooring store comes in. All the online research is for not if you don't have a contractor/store that can give you good options that are based on industry knowledge. It sounds like you did find a store that you like but you are a bit afraid to jump in due to price. We would use this opportunity to remind you that in the $13 per square foot price (which is not an out of line price based on the information you have given) you have to factor in their knowledge, time, flooring options, etc. Remember you are making the choice to stay away from the Lumber Liquidators for a reason... local dealers' pricing will reflect that difference as well. As far as the straight edges versus the mirco-bevels go, If you go with a line like Mirage that is of a higher caliber manufacturing process then the straight edges are much better. Regular, run of the mill products may have issues arise from trying to get the look of a job-finished floor without the on-site sanding or better milling processes. I would suggest mirco-bevels if price is important. Once again, refer back to your local dealer. Thanks for the question! We wish you luck on your project! Champion Floor Co. Here are a few links to help with your search for information: http://woodfloors.org/ http://www.miragefloors.com/ENG/why-mirage-hardwood-floors.php http://www.flooring-professionals.com/how-moisture-affects-hardwood-flooring/

@Kathleen Marineau The lock system was not fully engaged at time of install. This is the biggest issue with gaps like this. A laminate has a quick fix...vinyl not so much. A laminate repair kit (Bulldog tool or "Unifix" tool will work with laminate...but vinyl has other properties that make it difficult to achieve using just a tool). The variation in subfloor (not a flat surface) will ENCOURAGE the lock system to "disengage" or let go. The floor then "walks itself" apart (every time you step on it it moves a snick more). The short edges give away the issue. If this were SOLELY to a wavy substrate the LONG edges would be letting go as well. But they seem fine. The SHORT edges indicate an install error at the time these were put into place. Short edges "feel" like they snap in nicely. So people forget to give them a good "tap tap" when installed. The long edges are bit more difficult to maneuver so they ALWAYS get a good "smack" from the installer. And that is the difference between short edges "letting go" and long edges letting go. I see this from time to time with cork floating flooring. Same issue. If the floor starts to disengage it is 99.999% the short edge. And the reason: Not enough force applied to the short edge when it was installed. With so many short edges that are disengaging, I suspect you will need a full "remove and reinstall". A single plank can be dealt with using a "tool". But with 5-6 in a single space...it requires a redo. It is possible you have multiple issues...the sag and the uncontrolled Relative Humidity have added to an initial install issue. You can fix the sag...and reinstall the same flooring or you can work with a sheet product.

@Ryan Thanks for the question. A concrete slab that is sitting ON the earth (ie. not in a high rise on the 10th floor) always requires a vapour barrier underneath. Always. If anything, it maintains your warranty. There are three definitions of slab concrete: 1. Below grade. This is normally poured concrete for a foundation that has been dug into the ground. Like a basement. Even if 1 square inch is 'below grade' we view it as ALL below grade. 2. At grade. This is a common situation. Concrete is poured onto the ground and the house is built from there...going up; not down. Again, this is sitting 'on the ground' therefore it is considered 'damp' until proven otherwise. Even in the desert areas, we find dampness in slabs that are sitting on the ground. Moisture LOVES to condense on cold surfaces...like concrete. 3. Above grade or 'suspended slab'. This is the 'high rise' situation. You don't have to be in a high rise. It just means the slab is suspended in the air. It touches nothing but air above it and below it. This is the ONE situation where you can 'get away' without a vapour barrier. But you still void the warranty as soon as the contractor starts laying the first run. The installer is responsible for installing product on-site. If you did not purchase the vapour barrier, then the installer did not install it. If you used the SHOP'S installer, then they are responsible for ensuring you purchase everything you need for the job. Which requires you to tell them what your situation is. You get what you pay for. A good flooring installer *should have pointed out you needed a vapour barrier. And then would have told you what to purchase for him/her, or they would have said, "I have some in my truck, it will cost another $1/sf for the materials plus $0.50/sf to lay it." Something like that. And the preparation of the concrete is another thing that should have been paid for and performed. But so many contractors just want a paying job, that they offer the 'no frills' install. They get there, they install what is needed/purchased/sitting out for them and then they go home with a pay cheque in hand. I've had experiences where my QUESTIONS to the homeowner caused them to hang up on me. Yep. The question, "Is this for a bathroom?" caused such angst they started to yell it was none of my d@mn business and hung up on me. OKee DOKee then. I don't know what your situation is. The above is just an example as to why a store, with highly trained FLOORING professionals (ahem...a flooring store and not a 'big box' store like HD) would miss something as simple as a vapour barrier for a concrete slab.