It's probably the price range of cabinets they are looking at. Put a low end maple door sample next to a semi-custom or custom door sample and they are worlds apart. The quality of the finish make a huge difference. Can you tell us what brand she is looking at? I also would not consider 'natural maple'....as it is a bit dated and CAN look cheap with a recessed panel style. Medium stains are usually the most non-trendy. Tell your sister to consider a semi-custom cabinet line. If that's already what she is looking at....tell her to look at another brand. I know that Kraftmaid's new finishing technique can sometimes look too shiny (and plastic-y). Medallion Silverline has nice maple and cherry shaker styles that won't break the bank. Also tell her to consider a cherry upgrade. It is not a huge price increase over maple, typically. For an overall kitchen, probably just a few hundred more. You'll get a wood with a much richer finish!

No, we didn't choose Iona, wechose Vesta as I changed the color of the shower/backsplash tile to Architectural Gray from Daltile https://www.daltile.com/product/Color-Wheel-Collection-Classic?color=Matte-Architectural-Gray&shape=Rectangle https://coretecfloors.com/en-us/products/coretec-stone/vesta-vv568-18363 We're quite happy with the Coretech! A neighbor came to see our bathrooms and commented "it's warm (in stocking feet)" perhaps in comparison to a stone tile which would feel colder. DH installed it and used the Coretech transition for the primary bath, but we had a wood transition that was glued down for the hall bath so I asked him to cut it at a 45 degree angle and I think it looks wonderful! Our bathrooms are small so with this large of a tile there were few that he didn't have to cut. hall bath transition, tile cut to 45 degree hall bath, natural light from skylight in bath hall bath from bathtub, hall weaving is from Huatulco, MX https://www.google.com/search?q=huatulco+mexico+weaving&sxsrf=ALeKk012mrZxsoP1y_9ZS2b20CuGP_Fwdg:1614037566839&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=kgeDyTPUDQUuHM%252C48IRYwsqKt_SVM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQWJyN6535gYFKBUpZ3mYgwsYj4DQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjq_My-1v7uAhXCv54KHa1aDqcQ9QF6BAgJEAE#imgrc=kgeDyTPUDQUuHM primary bath with vanity light on Coretech transition, color is Vesta

Thank you, that's helpful. Even though it doesn't help to narrow previous suggestions because all of these might work)) This rug has very nice combination of neutrals. I would go for off white with green in it,. Creamy white would work too. But with a tad darker/different white shade of color you might not need to paint the trim. Unless you want a brighter, cooler pallette-but the rug still reads warm enough to me. What color is the trim now? Which samples have you tried already? Do you prefer certain paint company or it doesn't matter? Do you have Dunn Edwards where you live? (I'm on West Coast and I never heard of it before I moved here I must say) If yes I might have a suggestion. Doric White is a very nice off white...it can read white, off-white, a bit beige, a bit green depending on the light..it's chameleonic, rich color, pleasure to work with. I love it as a background,. As long as you made sure it works in your space with your light of course. I can't stop thinking about Kangaroo (that's Affinity collection of BM), that's one of my favorites; but it might be too dark for such a big space, And I'm very swayed by the rug's colors right now. In any case all of suggestions might look completely different in different houses, so at this stage, it's trial and error. You can do very light silvery sage... (By the way never go by the colors' name. I stumbled upon that Doric White when I looked for a perfect greige. I didn't find a perfect greige, but I found something better-a color that worked as i wanted it to. ) I think -out if all the colors you tried, pick the ones you liked best , or others you want to try, and make samples..I took A4 size paper(.A3 would be better), put two layers of a color I considered, as it would be two layers on a wall...would leave just the edges edges unpainted so it's white and messes less with the background ..then you can move it wherever, and compare with other samples, and see how the colors flow together in case you need several. Use masking tape to tape them to the walls. It's easy. I mean when I describe it it sounds like it takes time, but most time is spent looking at it, really. Lol. Looking and deciding is the hardest part. And take your time,..neutrals are hard. They are finicky. They change ever so slightly. But if you find the right one..they're really fun actually. That's what I love them for.

your cabs remind me of this before and after. Try and imagine the after being the same white (instead of this pale blue/green) and you'll get an idea of what you're asking. If you just look at the pic on the right and see the cabs against the white ceiling, it should give you an idea of what white walls would look like Here's alabaster compared to Simply White or cloud white (forget white dove. too dingy) the other two are neutrals that lean a little toward warm. Alabaster can look pretty 'yellowish'. don't know if you'd want that tone next to the countertops If you have any plants on changing countertops, i'd wait on paint color. Look into Pre-fab countertops. for you kitchen you could do the counters for about 1500-1800 using a prefab. they come in quartz, marble, granite, etc. prefabs come looking like this, usually in 6' or 9' lengths. cost is usually 500-600 bucks. you hire a fabricator to come on site to cut them to your kitchen size don't know where you live. Some states these are very easy to obtain, others not so much.