A bookshelf type doesn't necessarily have to take up counter space. We just finished cabinetry design for new construction kitchen & on attached, marked in red, is lift up cabinet that will hold counter top micro, although could be open - we just happen to be doing integrated so went with it covered. Like your bookcase idea too - if you've got room above though, you could free up that counter spot. . UNTIL RECENTLY, I'd have praised OTR location. We loved convenience as we micro a lot during dinner prep, handy while working below at stove. NOW wouldn't get one again. OTR stand for Oversized Timer / Reminder for us - that's all its good since several months ago when heating element expired. You cant just pop in a new one like buying a replacement counter top micro. When new house micro expire, unplug old, plug in replacement. A reminder that helped us decide against the pricier drawer micro.

If your long straightedge is bowing from the pressure of the router, you could support it in the middle by butting a two-foot-long scrap of particleboard (or almost anything, really) against the back of the straightedge and clamping it to the far side of the counter. That said, as long as the bow in the front edge is a smooth, even contour without abrupt jogs, it shouldn't cause any problem with the laminate. It might be better aesthetically if it were straight, but the laminate doesn't care if it's got a gentle curve in it. It's hard to imagine the counters are sagging on the sawhorses so much that they'll be permanently distorted by gluing laminate on them in that position. However, you'll need them fairly well supported for the glue up so you can lean some of your weight on the roller you use to press the glued surfaces together. For that reason alone it's worth supporting them well. You don't need a lot of sawhorses; I'd just put a couple of 2x4s on edge, on top of the sawhorses to provide even support along the whole length. You'll need to stabilize those 2x4s a bit, probably by nailing or screwing a couple of cross pieces between them, so they don't fall over flat at some inopportune moment. What size router do you have? There's nothing wrong with holding the router sideways except that you don't have practice doing it, and it could be difficult if you have a large, heavy router. The ones made for laminate trimming are small and light and can be held at odd angles with one hand. If you're stuck with a bigger, general-purpose router then it may be worth getting some help to set the pieces on edge as you described. You don't need a giant vise; just clamp it to some stable vertical object like a cabinet frame or the side of a sawhorse. When the clamp gets in the way, stop routing and repostition as necessary. Whichever way you go, if you've never done it before and you can't afford to goof, PRACTICE on some scrap!

Great job, Trebuchet! Thanks everyone. My husband contacted the owner today, and lo and behold he's on vacation! Surprise, surprise. So he had to talk to #2 in charge, who was the guy I originally talked to when I signed the estimate. They gave my husband many excuses as to why the seam had to go there....mainly that the countertop is heavy and it would not have been possible to maneuver it over the half wall with the moulding that sticks out an inch, or some such nonsense.. I could have had that moulding easily removed, if they had taken the time to call and ask me, He never said why they did a poor job on the seam in the first place. I think you guys are awesome, and many of you were "right on" with the end result. I've learned a lot. Hopefully, my backsplash will outshine the seam and make it less of an eye sore. Put a fork in it, ladies and gents, 'cause I am done!

Thanks ccoombs1. I don't mind a bump out at the sink, in fact, I think it looks nice if it's 2 or 3 inches. Right now my bump out is 5.5" and my sink base is only 22" deep. It's one of the main things I want to change in the kitchen. The design I have now is to pull the counters out 3" on each leg (27" cabinets), then bump the sink out 2-3". I know I can make this work with a stainless apron front sink, but I had my heart set on a Franke with the cool intergral shelf and accessories. I could squeeze in the Oceania, but would have to have a wall mount faucet so no pull out spray. Problem is, I've made so many compomises already and the sink area is really, really important to me (it's the ONE thing I hate about my current kitchen). Does anyone have unequal counter depths in there kitchen? If I saw a picture, it might help.