Even without knowing the kind of wood or condition, I can't imagine replacing wood flooring in an 1890 home. In my opinion, the value is in the original material. If the floor is in good condition, it may not need sanding at all; a screening and recoat might be all that's necessary and the patina would be retained. There are many threads on this topic, try searching the Old House forum. I live in a converted schoolhouse built in 1890. The fir floors had been covered with layers of linoleum, glue, paint ... they were a mess.. but looked awesome after refinishing. That was years ago and I'm planning to have them screened soon (aka buff and recoat.) What kind of wood is it? Do you have photos?

Engineered or not...the problem is with the floor prep. New builds HATE to use the 'good stuff'. The builders want as much profit as possible = super cheap building materials and "guys" to install. They do NOT like working with 'flooring professionals'. Why? Because they cost MORE then 'dude with hammer'. So...new build = no floor prep. This is SUPER COMMON and can void your hardwood warranty in a heart beat. As CT points out, you need to find out the installation requirements and request, in WRITING, the details of the installation from the GC. It is up to the BUILDER to PROVE that every "i" was dotted and every "t" crossed. If not, the BUILDER holds the warranty that they just VOIDED. And just for fun...the very FIRST thing you will be asked = what is the indoor air temperature and HUMIDITY??? Things get noisy as they dry out. Humidity in your home is EXTREMELY important. Because things are getting worse (noisier) I suspect the humidity is NOT being maintained. Check your HVAC system to see where you have your humidity set at (if you have a humidistat you should be able to change the humidity at the push of a button - just like temperature). If you do not have a humidity stat, then you can go out and purchase a cheap hygrometer at any home improvement store. Should be about $30. The installation and subfloor prep (or lack thereof) is the builder's responsibility and s/he must be able to PROVE site conditions where met. This trumps EVERYTHING. The living conditions RIGHT NOW are the homeowner's responsibility which can void any warranty if the right conditions aren't met. That's why you need to know what YOUR HOME is doing to the flooring. If it is too dry/too humid you will need to correct that ASAP. So that no one can point a finger at you, the homeowner.

@ TONYA FOSTER Kentwood is a good brand that we show at both our showrooms. The look and feel of their products is quite trendy and attractive. I wish wear layer of their engineered floors could be thicker and 2 mm. Sample boards matching actual floor order has been a challenge to floor dealers in the past couple of years. This is why you heard DuChateau sent approval box their dealer/home owner before shipping the actual floor order in the previous part of this discussion. Could you post a picture of sample board and picture of your floor received?

Hello Jennifer, Engineered wood flooring is much more stable with moisture changes due to the plywood core and the thinner layer of hardwood on the top. However it will still move in response to moisture changes, just at a slower rate. https://www.woodco.com/news/what-you-need-to-know-before-buying-an-engineered-wood-floor/ We have installers in dry climates like Arizona that no longer install engineered but rather go with a solid plank. This is because the low humidity levels was causing the wood to shrink, but with the stable plywood core, the wear layer of hardwood was shrinking at a different rate than the plywood and causing splitting issues. This takes time and is more common in the engineered wood floors that have a thicker wear layer. Acclimating your floor before installation will be key. Every region has different needs. Have you talked to a NWFA certified flooring installer? I too am happy to discuss your project with you as a wood flooring manufacturer, so feel free to reach out. Kind Regards, Debbie George - WoodCo, Ltd. debbie@woodco.com (210) 298-9663