I'm curious about people's responses to this as well. I've always been set on wood look tile for our entryway, half bath, dining room, kitchen, and mud room (open concept) but I've been having second thoughts because it seems cold and unwelcoming. I live in Indiana so cold weather is here to stay. We have cheap laminate currently which the previous owners put in and I hate. The LVP options are sure tempting and install costs and time would certainly be less. Our house is less than 10 years old and on a cement slab so I'm hoping that our floor is pretty even.

We also have the Adura LVP, in Essex Oak. We have stairs that come down into the room, so when we found out that Mannington was (at the time; I don't know if anything newer than Nov 2015 has come onto the market) the ONLY mfg who offered one-piece stair treads, we turned our attention solely to that line. You may want to know that our vendor absolutely refuses to do a click-lock install on LVP. Glue-down only is their policy. They said they had way too many consumer problems with click-lock installs on LVP versus zero complaints with glue-down. Two different contractors and three different friends who were experienced remodelers, all thought the flooring was wood. The LVP is only slightly separated, at a right angle, by our kitchen flooring, from a 1940's red oak flooring. We were pretty amazed that no one could tell the LVP wasn't "real" wood, with the red oak flooring so close by. Sorry our experience is less than a year so far. But we have been very pleased with the LVP. Easy, easy, easy to keep clean. Do note that some folks who have had LVP very long-term have said fade occurs in strong daylight situations. I can attest that even the highest quality LVT does suffer color changes in strong direct daylight. Our kitchen flooring is Metroflor LVT in a slate-look tile, installed in 2003. I recently had to have a single tile replaced, whose corner edge had chipped off. It wasn't until after replacement I noticed the new tile (from an extra box I bought at the same time) which had been used to protect a table surface but was exposed for about 10 yrs to more direct sun than my kitchen floor, IS now a very slightly different color than the rest of the kitchen tiles. It has a color shift to the more brown/tan hues, than the others. It's not terribly noticeable - after six months I don't think my DH has ever noticed it - but UV shift is something to be aware of if you have windows with direct sun coming in, that are not coated with UV reduction film. YMMV, of course. This is a 25x18' MBR: Close-up: The one-piece stair tread, with mitered side edge:

Even if you decide to glue down the vinyl plank over the particle board (which isn't ever really recommended) you wont get your desired outcome. Particle board isn't a smooth and flat surface and vinyl has extremely little forgiveness for subfloor discrepancies. Either pull the particle board out and install a new 1/4" plywood for your subfloor, or for the smoothest and flattest installation, remove the particle board, install wire mesh and pour self leveling mix and allow to cure before installing the vinyl. Granted, that added prep will cost more, but depending on how long you would like your vinyl flooring to last, it is the best option for long term. And it gives you a truly flat subfloor for your vinyl. How to achieve a truly flat subfloor The Importance of a solid subfloor The Couture Floor Company

Plot twist- Our youngest child has been struggling with allergies. Yesterday, her Dr suggested it is most likely the carpet. This is a new issue as our last space had carpet but she never struggled to this point. The children currently sleep in a triple bunk bed and she sleeps closest to floor. We had a few estimates done to replace carpet for upstairs bedrooms (3) all came out to over $1000. (One company flat out told us the carpet was newer but poor quality, not properly cared for & he could tell pets were an issue.) We ended up deciding on Waterproof laminate Flooring from a local flooring liquidation store. We will be using it on the entire third floor. We were able to secure a medium grade wood look with underlayment. We also purchased underlayment to help with noise reduction. I kiltzed/treated the subfloor and it has been airing out. We purchased a open box floor cutter and spent a total of $498 for the Entire floor . and supplies. (My husbands military discount really helped) We plan to install ourselves. I know it's not many people's first choice but, it seems to be the best financial option for us at this time. I will attach photos of the flooring. Instead of sulking I am thrilled our children will have clean flooring and am looking into some reasonable area rugs. We are using some of the money we saved on flooring to head start our upstairs flooring fund & a portion to buy the kids warm area rugs & bedroom shoes. :) Thank you all for your valuable feedback, my husband now asks me lol “What did your internet friends say?”