I don't understand re-tiling being easier than re-grouting. You can use a grout scraper to get most of the old grout out, clean the tile and grooves real well and then just grout.... as opposed to smashing out the old tile and starting from scratch. Before I did anything, I would clean up all the grout and replace where necessary. I think white grout is best for resale...it will look so nice and clean. I personally think a gray and white palette is nice and classic, but your whites need to be whiter. Also recaulk the tub and consider the reglazing. Once everything is nice and white (and gray), then decide on your paint colors and accessories, etc. I think it's so cool that people have taken off the glass doors on their tubs with success....I would be so afraid there might be rust stains underneath or some kind of non removable adhesives or something, I wouldn't chance it.

I kinda posted this question last week, but I realize my question was too convoluted and mixing too many questions into one. Trying again. Question: What shower wall tile should I used in the 2 kids' bathrooms upstairs? Just about finished with office bath (no tub). Used 3 x 12 subway tiles for shower walls set in a 1/3 offset pattern. Floor tile is a medium brown/nuetral, not fancy. For the other 2 bathrooms (demoing right now), they are 5 x 8s with tub/shower combo with shower curtains. I know what the floor tile is going to be in each, but I'm having trouble deciding about the shower walls for each. I keep coming back to the same plain white subway tile, but I'm wondering if I should choose something else so that all 3 bathrooms upstairs don't have the same walls? Or maybe that's okay, and I just need to vary the size or the layout from one bathroom to the next? Girls' bathroom: Floor will be a marble-look porcelain tile in a 2 x 2 hexagon. Shower walls could be 3 x 6 subways, or should I consider something else? The vanity is SW tidewater and the countertop is Ceasarstone Frosty Carrina. There will be brushed nickle shower fixture/tub filler. Only the floor tile and shower walls are changing; everything else remains. Goal: Keep it a bit delicate, feminine, soft. It has a bit of a beachy theme going on. Boy's bathroom: Floor will be a medium gray porcelain hexagon (about 8" I think). Shower walls could be 3 x 12 subways set in a 1/3 offset, or maybe a stacked pattern to be a bit more modern, or should I consider something else? Since the floors are gray I could consider a marble-look porcelain for the shower walls bc that would coordinate with the floor, but I'm not sure if I should just stick with the subways. The vanity is SW Naval and the countertop is Ceasarstone Frosty Carrina. There will be shiny chrome shower fixture/tub filler, and I'm changing the faucet to shiny chrome. Only the floor tile and shower walls are changing; everything else remains. Goal: Make it a bit more dressed-up, refined, a little more modern, but not too much. I need to add some art which will probably be an antique map we are getting framed. (Note: wicker cabinet is already gone; replaced with a nicer one.) Thanks in advance!!! This is the last of the bathroom updating in my whole house. So excited to be almost finished!

"When you say "trim pieces" are you referring to the visible faucet and handles?" Yes, here are the American Standard Roman Tub Deck Mount trims on build.com. Each trim requires an American Standard rough-in valve. There are many trims but only a few valves. If the new trim requires the same rough-in valve as the old, you can switch it out without changing the valve. For example, the Studio S and Delancy trims require the same R900 rough-in valve (click the linked Specifications document for each trim) even though they look nothing alike. But you cannot change trim brands without changing the rough-in valve.

You guys confirmed my suspicion...something just wasn't sitting right with that combination, so I'll move on. I'm also looking at the Brizo Tresa and Brizo Rook, both in either chrome or PNickel. I may end up giving up the single hole design and go for two handle versions. Also like the look in the photo below, which is really the "Look" I was after...a mix of traditional and contemporary. But although I love the look, I think these sconces may be too large for a 48" vanity and wouldl prefer glass to fabric shades. @Patricia ColwellPatricia We are already in the process of building. Our electrical wiring goes in on Monday, followed by windows and drywall, so I'm probably more behind than ahead of schedule. I was toying with the idea of installing lighting fixtures 'through' the mirror rather than above it, but not sure it's worth the aggravation of trying to coordinate the mirror hole drilling with electrical boxes. I do love this look, just not sure how to pull it off with a 48" vanity and toilet area.