You can fertilize anytime. You have to ignore nitrogen in any soil test, it will always be low. P&K are reasonable stable in the soil and do not change much, and used sparingly by plants. Nitrogen is a completely different. It is extremely water soluble and the plants drink it up quickly. Cool season lawns are heavily fertilized (nitrogen) in the Fall, medium in Spring, and almost nothing in Summer. So what the extension office is telling you is accurate, but your interpretation may not be correct. I am not a cool season grass kind of guy. But I do know you should be fertilizing right now at least once a month with nitrogen starting around labor day up to T-Day. So you have already missed one or two applications. Good luck.

Thanks---yep, we've played with their site, which is definitely very cool. Found unfortunately that it's not a great representation of the actual colors with the monitor oddities, even after adjusting the calibration, though. Ah, well. I got stuck because I like the gray-green combos fine on screen, but when we started pulling the chips they didn't look at all the same...argh! The guy at our local BM dealer said the same about the historical colors, interestingly---he thinks they're richer. We like a couple of the HC grays (Edgecomb + Stonington) but haven't had much luck with greens there---they seem more muted. (So far the front runners there are Pear Green, Wales Green, and maybe Potpourri Green from the Color Preview line.)

Hi EK! I think maybe the people who "relevelled" your home didn't do a very good job. Have you reported to the company that now your doors and windows don't function correctly? If so, what did they say? Did you shop around and make sure the company is certified to do this work? This may vary from state to state, but I know that in Washington, where I live, one must have a special certification to relevel manufactured homes, which tells me that it's a skill that requires special training. Did you consult any engineers or contractors prior to making the decision to relevel in order to get some advice as to whether relevelling was necessary? Doing a Google search was quite enlightening! Every single site that said relevelling is necessary for manufactured homes was a site for a business that relevels them. And the frequency with which one should relevel varied widely! I saw one recommendation of every ten years, and one that recommended relevelling annually! I can't believe that "un-levelling" your house would be a good choice. And I wouldn't go back to the same company that levelled it in the first place, unless you get some information as to why this happened. I would most definitely have a contractor who has experience with manufactured homes come out, take a look and give you some expert advice. I think that $100-$200 for an hour of his or her time would be money well spent. And after about 30 minutes of my Google research, I'm more confused than ever about as to if and how often relevelling should be done! :-)

I see no reason not to grow several vines on a fence. You just need to make sure that smaller vines are not going to be overgrown by larger growing vines. Pay attention to the possible height of a vine; if it can't grow up, it may grow sideways. Native honesuckle, Lonicera sempervirens, most often has red blooms, though there is a yellow variety. American wisteria, Wisteria frutescens, grows to 30 ft most often with blue or violet blooms. The cultivar Nivea has white blooms. American bittersweet, Celastrus scandens, grows to 25 ft and is not invasive like Oriental bittersweet (Avoid C. orbiculatus.). It has tiny flowers, but produces red-orange berries that persist into winter. All parts of this plant are mildly toxic. Usually both a male and female plant are required to get berries, but one cultivar, Bailumn, is self-fertile. If you have a completely shaded fence to cover, climbing hydrangea, Hydrangea anomala and its close relative H. petiolaris are good. They both can grow really tall though. There is a native vine, Decumaria barbara, that is lower growing, but is only listed as reliably hardy to zone 6.