Thanks to everyone for your input. Based on the feedback from the pros so far, I see that next steps are as listed below. Please let me know if I've misunderstood or missed anything: 1 - Ask dealer to provide, in writing, load calculation support for a 2.5 vs 3 ton system 2 - Ask dealer to provide, in writing, that existing ductwork (both supply and return) is sized correctly to handle the additional CFMs provided load calculation indicates going up in size to a 3 ton condenser. 3 - Ask dealer to provide, in writing, that existing lineset is sized properly to manufacturer spec and ask dealer to warranty any future issues with lineset (critical parts are connections at each end) $1000 to replace is not advisable unless existing lineset is not properly sized. 4 - Get additional quotes on equipment noted in proposal #1 from other Carrier dealers (along with load calcs). Current dealer pricing is very high. Remove Greenspeed model 25VNA036A003 from scope given we have a gas furnace for the first floor (this is overkill) 5 - Existing proposal for backup heat model FC-2901N09 is satisfactory (9KW that is field convertible to 3 phase) Ask dealer to install staged heat strips and specify in proposal. 6 - Continue to use current 4 ton central A/C until it dies. Not necessary to replace at this juncture. 7 - Discuss lock out temperatures with installer to ensure proper energy usage. Some additional comments/concerns: @tigerdunes - in response to your last post, we are running emergency heat strip intermittently for heat. I have been turning the fan on upstairs to draw heat from the first floor furnace to keep temperature comfortable on second floor (around 68F) Thankfully, there hasn't been a need to keep emergency heat on constantly. @tigerdunes - thank you for suggesting additional equipment. In your opinion, is the incremental cost of the two-stage Infinity 25HNB636A003 (proposal #1) worth the investment vs. the lower priced systems you suggested? I'm trying to make the best cost/benefit decision since we do not have any plans to move from this home. If it were your home, what equipment would you choose? @mike_home - you noted early on that the proposal pricing for #1 seemed high @ approx $7K. Is there a price range that is more reasonsable for a 3 ton system provided everything else remained constant - same backup heat, infinity controller, using existing lineset? What about a 2.5 ton system? (i.e. $5-6K for 2.5 system is fair, an additional $500-$800 for a 3 ton system, etc) @mike_home - you recommended getting a 4 inch media filter. Dealer proposed upgrade to a Aprilaire 2210/2410 Air Cleaner for $300. Is this worth the additional investment or do you have another suggestion? @ryanhughes/tigerdunes/all - you indicated the existing VP 8320s could be reprogrammed and used. Since they are full touch screen models that appear superior to the SYSTXCCUID01-V Infinity controller proposed which isn't a touchscreen, I was curious to the advantages of replacing vs. using the existing ? What are the drawbacks? I'm very pragmatic about changing my filters every 3 months so I don't need a controller telling me to do so if that's the only advantage. @ALL - Should I only pursue Carrier dealers at this juncture for quotes on equipment? Since I have multi-speed Carrier 59TP5 Performance Series 95 gas furnace, I am assuming you all are recommending that I do not pursue Trane/Lennox or another manufacturer as it would create a mismatched system? This was the one point I didn't hear a lot of feedback on other than the Trane having true electronic demand defrost. Again, MANY THANKS to all of you for the invaluable advice.

I did a standard crescent (I think) white (there are about 6 different whites). I just matched the paper and I left 1/2" all around the print showing, plus enough at the bottom for the signature and seal. The mats on all of them, no matter the size is 3", so about 2 1/2 or so shows. It's a single mat, no spacers. I don't know if you can tell, but the matting isn't a perfect match with all of the papers, but it's very close to all of them. DH has collected a few more, but we haven't had them all framed, because it's a bit dear, I'll tell you what. We'll get to them, eventually. He's been trying to find all the names for them (from other Ebay listers). Did you see the original oil that just went on Ebay for $2,000+? It was gorgeous. DH says he got some of ours from finestartprints, as well.

hi Take a wet warm/hot wash cloth and place it ot wrap it around a section and then rap in plastic ot foil or just a old bread bag and wait for a few hrs. I would think that over doing this will warp the wood and that you don,t want . I warm things up in my oven all the time because of the low heat provided by the pilot light I might try this also. use a little paint stripper in a small place with a rag the same way as the way just put some on heavily and wrap and wait . but I do know that moisture destroys the plaster because I have the oppisite prob. I have an old mirror from gmas house that was stored in her garage and pcs of the very ornate frame came off and will need replaced ,and moisture is what made them come loose. but as a wood worker I also know that just moisture in low levels(my basement) will warp dry wood and frames are not much good bent. if it all come loose I would definitly use a stripper for the final steps in finishing . Rick

My experience is “DON’T USE MINWAX FOR ANYTHING, ESPECIALLY THEIR POLYSTAIN”!!!!! I sat around for 2 weeks trying to stain everything and having issues with stain dripping or being uneven and stripping it back off to do it again. I knew it must be the stain because I was doing everything according to what I’ve seen on YouTube by Bruce for the Minwax products. The only problem was that that was the only color in the stores that I liked (Bombay Mahogany) When I started reading reviews I saw that everyone was having same issues. I finally got in touch w/ painter friend who said that’s why he didn’t use Minwax products anymore. He hooked my up with Old Master Gel Stain in Rich Mahogany and wow what a difference. Bad news is I had to strip all the old stuff off so it’s like I did my cabinets 2x. Still not quite done but I’ll post pics off my progress and the Minwax nightmare vs what Old General looks like. My cabinets are pine and with gel stain you don’t have to condition wood but with regular stain always use wood conditioner first or it will be a blotchy job. Also you need to make sure any scratches or flaws in wood are sanded out or stain will highlight them big time. The last piece of advice is that when you’re sanding to get scratches out, you must sand through the grits. For example: if you’re using 80 grit to get out a deeper scratch, you’ll want to follow up with a 150 grit then a 180 grit or 240 grit. You can’t just jump from 80 grit to 180 or 240, trust me I tried. 240 can remove scratches 80 grit leaves, by sanding through the grits you’re leaving smaller scratches until with the last grit the eye can’t see any scratch. To check if scratches are gone hold wood horizontal while shine light from the bottom of wood piece, with eyes just above eye level peer down wood toward light and any flaws should be visible. Also when using oil based stains if you wipe wood down with mineral spirits first any scratches will show up right away. Let the mineral spirits dry and then sand out.