plllog: Let me try again on the pullouts and see if this explains it any better. The pullout is basically a shallow drawer. Since the sides go higher in the back, that pullout drawer width has to be narrower than the distance between the hinges or the higher pullout sides would hit the hinges as you pulled the drawer out. I was asking if the front of the drawer was shallow enough that it would fit under the hinge? That way you could make the drawer wider by the width of the drawer sides. It's not a significant difference and now that I think about it, it's probably not a good idea to push the width anyway because you have to get the doors open wide to get the pullout out as it is. Making the drawer wider just makes it worse. As to the second item, I was referring to how far forward that end piece comes out. I looks like you have slab doors so it makes sense for that piece to be flush with the door front because your door edges are square. I have raised panels doors and the outside edge of the doors and drawers have an ogee (?) curve to them. The thickest part of the door sticks out 3/4" but the outside edge that is next to end panel has the curve routed in it so it's not as thick. That's why I was wondering where to end the panel. The filler is a piece that they use when the cabinet is next to a wall. The cabinet has to be plumb and level and the walls often aren't so you leave a little space to accommodate any irregularities and fill the gap with this piece that has been scribed to match the wall.

Okay, I can see where the confusion came from. I still can't find that thread on zero-clearance doors, but even with a zero clearance door swing to the right, you would still have the interior door framing for the door bins blocking removal of the right hand crisper drawer if you can't get the door to swing past 90°. That seems to be true whether you go with a 36" wide zero-clearance FD model (assuming one can be found) or with a 33" model that looks like the picture you posted above. (Which, incidentally, looks exactly like my KitchenAid.) Anyway, you may need to check your notes because I cannot find any current free-standing single-door bottom freezer fridges that are 36" wide. The biggest ones all seem to be in the 33" class and they all seem to have projecting door handles and door storage bins. Could not find any 36" wide SDBF models when I checked the Whirlpool website as well as AJ Madison who seems to have pretty much every model currently made. FWIW, in the 33" wide class, the FD and SDBF models come off the same assembly lines and differ mainly in how they hang the doors. There really isn't any significant difference in capacity. There are 36" wide FD models with larger capacity but there don't seem to be any free-standing SDBF equivalents that I can find in that size. Seems like a Hobson's choice. With an SDBF, you can swing the door to the right against your side wall, which would give you ready access from the fridge to the left-side counter but leaves you with the problem of not being able to take out the right-side crisper drawer. Mount the door to swing to the left and you solve the drawer removal problem but pretty much block easy access for taking things from the fridge to put them on the counter next to it (or vive versa when bringing groceries to it). With a FD model, you get the drawer problem with only some of the blockage problem. Is there a counter or island opposite the fridge. FWIW, I just did a little experiment with my 33"-wide FD fridge. I wondered if it might it might be possible to get enough of an angle on the right door by leaving off the projecting door handle. I found that with the door swung a little over 2 inches wider, and, if I pulled the left hand crisper drawer first, then it was just just barely possible to wiggle the right crisper drawer past the bin framing. That's a real kludge. You'd be limited to a 33" wide FD model and would have to keep an allen (hex) wrench handy to remove and replace the right door handle whenever you needed to remove that right hand crisper drawer. Maybe with enough responsive postings now, we'll attract the attention of somebody with better information.

I'm assuming you've tried a basic Google search for "pivot hinge" and "90 degrees"? https://www.grainger.com/category/hardware/door-hardware/hinges/pivot-hinges?attrs=Range+of+Motion%7C90+Degrees&filters=attrs If all else fails, consider installing some sort of stop. There are stops you can put on the hinge pins of the hinges themselves, and then you can adjust them to where you want them. If you don't want to risk that the adjustment would shift, you can buy bolts to put on there (one on each side of the hole and then tighten them toward one another) Hinge-pin door stops https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Satin-Nickel-Hinge-Pin-Door-Stop-15586/202033981 

@J. Do Most likely at the bottom they will be using a U-Chanel, is what most use in these cases because they give a really nice finish and at the top, they could use a post support something like this, also adds a nice detail and breaks up the glass span, you have to check with the company and get the exact details of what they will be using.