Have to disagree with gardengal, Cut the tree now and it's wide open for the fungus or insects to invade a weakened tree. Wrong wrong wrong, that's old time thinking when they painted trees etc. Cut it after a good frost, the longer into the winter, the better. In addition you want to trim the tree, you want air to circulate within the central area of the tree to ward off fungus. You also don't want to take too much off the tree during winter trimming otherwise you will get lots of leaves etc with little fruit in the next growing season, however in your case it looks like you need more structure within yor tree to support the heavy fruit. Below is from the North Carolina Coooperative Extension: Dormant pruning vs Summer Pruning Trees respond very differently to dormant and summer pruning. Dormant pruning is an invigorating process. During the fall, energy is stored primarily in the trunk and root system to support the top portion of the tree. If a large portion of the tree is removed during the winter, while the tree is dormant, the tree's energy reserve is unchanged. In the spring, the tree responds by producing many new vigorous, upright shoots, called water sprouts, which shade the tree and inhibit proper development. Heavy dormant pruning also promotes excessive vegetative vigor, which uses much of the tree's energy, leaving little for fruit growth and development. Historically, much of the vigorous, upright vegetative growth has been removed during the dormant season; heavy dormant pruning results in a yearly cycle with excessive vegetative growth and little or no fruit production. Timing of dormant pruning is critical. Pruning should begin as late in the winter as possible to avoid winter injury. Apple and pecan trees should be pruned first, followed by cherry, peach, and plum trees. A good rule to follow is to prune the latest blooming trees first and the earliest blooming last. Another factor to consider is tree age. Within a particular fruit type, the oldest trees should be pruned first. Younger trees are more prone to winter injury from early pruning. Summer pruning eliminates an energy or foodproducing portion of the tree and results in reduced tree growth. Pruning can begin as soon as the buds start to grow, but it is generally started after vegetative growth is several inches long. For most purposes, summer pruning should be limited to removing the upright and vigorous current season's growth; only thinning cuts should be used. To minimize the potential for winter injury, summer pruning should not be done after the end of July.

They are so subtle you can't even see them unless you are sitting/standing right next to me. I can't really see them in the photo of that girl's hair either.

I've used glitter in grout on my workshop wall just to test it, since it's a crazy wall and has all colors grout. It works fine. If you want it to be REAL glittery, use more. You can tell by looking at your grout how much shows up. Recently someone who was searching for info on glitter in grout, and didn't want to spend the money on the Spectra Lock, found my posting on Google re the glitter/grout. She emailed me w/questions. She was grouting her kitchen counters in dark slate, and I think she bought six bottles of the glitter. I'm happy to report that her results satisfied her immensly and it was a successful project. I referred her to the forum, but she's too busy, me thinks, to join. Go for it.

I actually never thought of that, very good advice(s) indeed. I shall try Landscape rake, and/or tractor box blade. I would say it does look like a wood chipper was used but alot of the debris from whatever "said" machine they used came out looking like 1 - 2 feet long shreds, imagine wood version of pulled pork (food). but LARGE sizes and so dry and dense. It doesn't break effortlessly, it still has pretty much the strength of framing wood or fresh pine although it's been over a year. Come to think of it, this past year until JUST recently, we had a very unusual dry spell here in the south on Louisiana, it was just this past month we started getting bad storms. So as far as decomposition goes, I don't think our lot or even this area had all the elements to start properly. Of course I don't need to 100% clear the lot (spotless) as i understand it helps with the biology of the soil. It is just that their is SO MUCH of this chippings, you can't even feel or see soil underneath so a good layer of it needs to come up or at least aerate it so the soil can be exposed to the rain and sunlight for proper seeding.